Chesterfie

I bought RX300 2002 AWD brand new w/ all upgrades almost 14 years ago. Currently, it has almost 37K miles and drives perfectly. I have not done anything beyond periodic oil changes/tire rotation/etc. It's in excellent shape (interior & exterior) as it's been parked 97% of its life inside garage and averaged about 2500 miles/year w/ no towing/hard driving. Gas mileage is 20/23mph so still quite good.

Recently, I did a few "major" replacements as needed: Oxygen sensors, brakes & rotors, 4 tires, and battery and wonder what else I should do next to ensure safety and long life?

What major safety and preventive maintenance is a MUST at this point for my car? From my research, I may need to do all fluid exchanges (coolant flush or drain/fill, transmission fluid, differential, case transfer, brake, steering) timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, etc.

I don't want to sink a ton of $ into a car that currently runs perfectly fine right, but I want to do enough so that it continues to run well and safely. I'm asking for your help: what is the best bang for the bucks maintenance services that I can do now, and on a regularly basis in the future? What maintenance service schedule/timeline should I follow at this point? I'm so lost

Please help me. Thank you in advance!!

hypervish

Sell it to me!

Nah, but in all seriousness, all fluids are a great place to start.

Some will recommend timing belt be changed, and some will say don't. Personally, I'd err on the side of caution and have it changed, but don't be surprised if it's like new.

Chesterfie

For the ATF, differential & transfer case, should I do flush, drain & refill or drop pan & fill method? I'm so confused which of the 3 methods is the best for my vehicle at this point??? Then there's a debate on which type of fluid to use as well.

Anyone please please help me provide a definitive answer??? Many thanks.

hypervish

With such low miles, a simple drain and fill on the transmission. And, again with the miles in mind, OEM Toyota Type IV also known as Mobil 3309 ATF.

Transfer case and differential do not have filters.

Chesterfie

Thank you, hypervish!

I called Lexus and they wanted me to bring in for a general inspection to ascertain what might need to be done as far as services/replacement go? They wanted $100-$150 for just the inspection...

Do I bother, or should I just follow the guidelines provided here on CL? I'm using the 90K-120K miles service schedule, which includes all fluids, timing belt/seals/waterpump, spark plugs, etc ... Do you think it's overkill?

I'm a bit hesitant only because nothing is wrong w/ my car right now -- knock on woods!! I don't want to "meddle" with it and change everything at once and start causing problems. Even though maintenance services are supposed to be good for you, but you know how that goes sometimes??? I trust my indie mechanic (owner) but one just never knows...And I always use OEM or better and give them to my indie mechanic to service... What services would you perform now for my car if it were your car?

Thanks and sorry for bugging you. Appreciate your time & help.

hypervish

You're welcome!

The inspection at the Lexus dealership is nothing your indie mechanic can't handle, and perhaps he'll do it for free along with the other work you are planning on doing.

I don't think it's necessary to do the water pump, seals and spark plugs with only 36k miles. But, that's just my opinion. Hopefully some other people will chime in with their views as well.

fastnoypi

IMO, replace all fluids. Especially your brake fluid if it has not yet been replaced.
Inspect as needed the timing belt..it should be fine but wear items on old cars without much milage are hit and miss and may show signs of cracking, due to weather and lack of use.

Plugs and water pump are overkill.

thomas1

I would do a drain and fill on transmission and a brake fluid change. Leave plugs and waterpump alone.

AnthonyMtz

Add some lucus transmission conditioner to help keep vital transmission components safe from alot of friction... these transmissions are not the best for this car, but with proper care they will last

hypervish

Not to stir a debate, but IMO it's not a wise thing to do adding snake oil to a perfectly running transmission.

From what I've read over on BITOG, the lucas transmission conditioner isn't like a typical snake oil and does do some wonders, but I wouldn't add it to something that works fine.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

AnthonyMtz

True, it literally brought my trans back to life lol, I say it's good for its protection against wear and friction, basically what the trans dose.

Chesterfie

Please help me with the following questions:

1) What spark plugs do I need from Denso (SK20 Iridium Long Life or Iridium TT)? I understand that I don't need to change the spark plugs at 36K miles, but if I decide to change them (along the line that my mechanic already working under hood) will the replacement cause problem when there was none originally? Will I see any improvement using Denso Iridium TT or should I stick w/ OEM SK20 long-life?

2) Can I use Toyota brand 0w20 synthetic oil or stick with Toyota 5w30 normal oil if I don't drive a lot? How often/many years do I need to change oil from now on since I don't drive a lot.

3) What Toyota brake fluid (part number) do I need? Or, can I have alternative rec'd brand/part number please? Do I need to change steering fluid as well?

4) Is Mobil 1 80w90 ok for differential and transfer case or should I use synthetic?

5) I'm planning on using Toyota ATF Type IV as drain and fill -- is this ok?

6) Can I use Denso cabin air filter, oil filter, and engine filter instead of OEM?

7) I'm using Toyota red coolant - how much should I dilute and should I top up or do a full coolant flush? How many gallons do I need to for a coolant flush?


Thank you for your time and help.

fastnoypi

1) use Denso SK20R11 no improvement using Denso Iridium TT

2) stick with 5w30 and other weights mentioned in the manual. 0w20 is too thin.
Maybe a 6-8 month interval will be fine....less driving is worse than more driving for oil..moisture will accumulate and cause sludge

3) use a good DOT3 or 4 rated brake fluid (i use valvoline synthetic dot 4)
4). ...not sure the weight..have to look up my records
5) Toyota ATF Type IV is recommended and perfect.
6) Denso cabin air filter, oil filter, and engine filter are perfectly fine. ( Any cross-referenced oil filter with a 14 PSID rated bypass valve can be used.)

7) i believe toyota red needs to be diluted to a 50/50 mix. IIRC i used almost 2 gallons of toyota pink pre-mix for a new fill. Manual states approximately 9L

Chesterfie

Thank you so much for your help. May ask for some clarifications?

2) 5w30 synthetic or regular to minimize sludge problem?
4) the weight is 80w90 but I am not sure if I should use synthetic. I just bought the Mobil 1 High Def 80w90 but I can return if synthetic is rec'd
7) is a new fill also known as a coolant "flush"? Is it rec'd to do a new coolant fill (coolant flush) every year or if not, how often?

Thanks, again!

fastnoypi

in your case of low miles per year, IMO it wouldnt matter synthetic or regular oil. Sludge happens when the air filter is dirty and the oil does not get hot over extended driving periods to ward off the moisture.

Sorry, you will have to do a bit more research on the diff oil. Check the specifications if it uses a GL-4 vs GL-5 spec. Differentials can be picky on synthetic vs conventional in some makes.

A coolant flush to me is draining the old coolant, refilling with distilled water, running and draining..then filling up with new coolant. Mixed toyota red is 3 years, pre-mix toyota pink is a 5 year interval if i recall.