mizak82

Sorry I've searched for quite a bit and every time i thought i would have an answer the threads would end...

My driver side window is stuck down... i attempted and failed 3 times to buy a refurbished motor.. So i purchased a used motor from ebay... now when i took the old motor out, both motors worked when they weren't hooked up to anything, or under zero load.. When i press the master switch down the motor gear runs great... when i press up on the master switch the motor gear is very weak and intermittent responding on both motors..

When I hook the motor to the rails and bolt it up to the door the motor won't work, just buzzes..

i tried the key in the door to open all windows, all work but the driver side one...

the master switch, the only function that doesn't work is the driver window, all else is fine lights up and locks and operates all other windows...


both are very expensive parts new...

Do I need a new master switch or a motor?


thanks

timmui

It does sound like the regulator (window motor) is the issue if I am reading your post right. However, I wanted to ask two questions before suggesting you get a remanufactured regulator:

1) With a volt meter, confirm you are getting at least 12 volts when moving the switch in either direction
2) Check for obstructions in the rails and/or that the grease in the channels aren't dried out or rusty looking

For the first, it will confirm whether the switch is working or you have a bad ground.

For the second, I read somewhere on here that Lexmex's uncle suggested lithium grease for the rails, which is what I've also used in the past for a corolla and my old ES300 after replacing the regulator.

islandbeef

What's the price difference on a refurbished to a brand new regulator? For peace of mind's sake, spending a little more may be worth it?

/shrugs

kalali

I would rule out the window motor before attempting to replace the regulator.

timmui

Do you mean switch? Because Toyota refers to their window motors as regulators.

kalali

I must confess I've not done any window repair on the RX but on other cars like VW, BMW and Jeep the regulator and the motor were separate units and the regulator was the piece with cables, window tracks, etc. You should be able to hear the motor when you press the window switch.

mizak82

1. I am reading less than 6 volts going down and up...

2.. I have cleaned and regreased the whole thing.. perfect condition..

thanks,

timmui

6V doesn't sound right to me. Just to make sure we're on the same page, I'm posting a picture of the connector. Pins 1 and 2 supply the voltage, going from positive to negative voltage depending on direction.

mizak82

correct.. my meter reads +/- 6 volts, then 12 volts,

it ended up being the switch... i bought one for 200 used... Works perfect..

Im going to try and fix the old one, ill put a new relay in and see what happens.... I soldered all the connections but didn't fix the issue..

timmui

I'm glad you found a resolution to your window issue, but I definitely winced at the price tag.

I don't know what kind of relay is used for the window switch, but if it is one of those solid state relays, all you can do is replace it. If it's a coil relay, check the resistance of the coil (should be less than 5 ohms) and check where it makes contact with the armature for carbon build up.