'01 RX300 Exhaust Leak [pic]
#1
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'01 RX300 Exhaust Leak [pic]
Hi everyone,
My wife's RX sounds like a monster truck. Assuming there was a leak in the exhaust, I put it up on the ramps and upon inspection found exhaust coming out of what looks to be a connection just under the driver seat area.
1. Can I just tighten the bolt (pictured) to close it up? Maybe it just came loose?
2. Has anyone else found this problem and how have you fixed? I am unable to determine what part I need.
Thanks!
My wife's RX sounds like a monster truck. Assuming there was a leak in the exhaust, I put it up on the ramps and upon inspection found exhaust coming out of what looks to be a connection just under the driver seat area.
1. Can I just tighten the bolt (pictured) to close it up? Maybe it just came loose?
2. Has anyone else found this problem and how have you fixed? I am unable to determine what part I need.
Thanks!
Last edited by 99es300; 02-28-11 at 08:28 AM.
#2
You just need a new gasket.
Easy to replace. ( I got my replacement gasket at ConsumerAutoParts)
You can get the gasket only, or new shoulder bolts and springs.
Probably should just replace all above items and be done with it.-(I like new parts!)
I have replaced mine a couple of times now.
I believe the bolts "bottom out" on the flange with the nuts. The springs are what keep the two pipes together, pushing that flange towards the other one with the nuts.
I Kroiled (penetrating fluid) my hardware before taking it apart.
Good luck!
Easy to replace. ( I got my replacement gasket at ConsumerAutoParts)
You can get the gasket only, or new shoulder bolts and springs.
Probably should just replace all above items and be done with it.-(I like new parts!)
I have replaced mine a couple of times now.
I believe the bolts "bottom out" on the flange with the nuts. The springs are what keep the two pipes together, pushing that flange towards the other one with the nuts.
I Kroiled (penetrating fluid) my hardware before taking it apart.
Good luck!
Last edited by Barryst; 02-28-11 at 01:29 PM.
#3
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Awesome- thanks for the great info. Yeah, I assumed there had to be a gasket in there somewhere. And I'll definitely replace the bolts / springs (agree with liking new parts!) Thanks again!
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I too had to replace that conical crush gasket pointed to in red. However, more recently, I replaced the gasket just up stream of that one because it started leaking. I put one gasket on it, zipped the two flanges back together and discovered the need for a second gasket because the flange was warped. Now that it has been repaired, it seems to be way peppier then in the past 5 or so years...I had a mechanic comment on the leak at 95K miles when I had the timing belt done....the vehicle now has 144K on it. Furthermore, my MPG's have been really crappy like 15-17...Hopefully the fixed leak now feeds-back proper control information to the computer and will squirt correct amounts of fuel based on the proper feedback. Will do an MPG calc at the end of this week.
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#8
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Yes they are welded. I got two metric bolts and two flanged nuts. Only one of my welded nuts broke free and since it was all rusty I chucked it in the trash and used a nut. The other welded nut stayed put so I just re used that. But if you're going to attempt this job, I'd definitely get the hardware to complete the job. It'll save you a trip to the auto store.
#9
The auto parts stores had Walker replacement parts that came with longer thinner bolts with brass nuts designed to go right through the welded on nuts and then secured with the brass nuts. The springs were lighter duty also. I don't have a local Lexus dealer but assumed correctly that the Toyota Highlander used the same parts. The Toyota OEM parts were identical to the original parts I removed and far superior to the Walker parts that I returned. No big surprise. I put anti seize and an additional metric nut behind the old welded on nuts just to make sure and to protect the exposed threads from corrosion. I also noticed the upstream gasket seems to be leaking slightly also and that there seems to be a gap at the bottom of the flange joint. Is that the warpage you referred to? Did your two gasket fix hold up ok? Thanks.
#10
Lexus Test Driver
The auto parts stores had Walker replacement parts that came with longer thinner bolts with brass nuts designed to go right through the welded on nuts and then secured with the brass nuts. The springs were lighter duty also. I don't have a local Lexus dealer but assumed correctly that the Toyota Highlander used the same parts. The Toyota OEM parts were identical to the original parts I removed and far superior to the Walker parts that I returned. No big surprise. I put anti seize and an additional metric nut behind the old welded on nuts just to make sure and to protect the exposed threads from corrosion. I also noticed the upstream gasket seems to be leaking slightly also and that there seems to be a gap at the bottom of the flange joint. Is that the warpage you referred to? Did your two gasket fix hold up ok? Thanks.
I was planning on buying the walker replacement parts, so thank you for saving me time and money!
#11
[QUOTE=hypervish;7815000]Do you mind sharing the part numbers for the gasket and bolts + nuts?
The Toyota part number for the donut is: 17451-0A010 and the bolts are: 90109-A0023. I just took the bolts to the hardware store and got the metric nuts that fit them, I don't remember the size. The Walker donut was just pressed composite but the Toyota had considerable steel construction - much better.
The Toyota part number for the donut is: 17451-0A010 and the bolts are: 90109-A0023. I just took the bolts to the hardware store and got the metric nuts that fit them, I don't remember the size. The Walker donut was just pressed composite but the Toyota had considerable steel construction - much better.
#12
Lexus Test Driver
[quote=Rudy602;7820624]
Thank you!
Do you mind sharing the part numbers for the gasket and bolts + nuts?
The Toyota part number for the donut is: 17451-0A010 and the bolts are: 90109-A0023. I just took the bolts to the hardware store and got the metric nuts that fit them, I don't remember the size. The Walker donut was just pressed composite but the Toyota had considerable steel construction - much better.
The Toyota part number for the donut is: 17451-0A010 and the bolts are: 90109-A0023. I just took the bolts to the hardware store and got the metric nuts that fit them, I don't remember the size. The Walker donut was just pressed composite but the Toyota had considerable steel construction - much better.
#13
I was talking to a Toyota mechanic about the gap at the bottom of the flange just upstream from the one with the springs. He said that over time the motor mounts will sag slightly and put pressure on that joint but until a new gasket or slight realignment of the exhaust doesn't do the trick, the mounts are staying put.
#14
Lexus Test Driver
Ok, so I finally got around to changing this gasket. And...
the bolt broke. Specifically the left side one. I was taking it off with a socket after letting it soak for a minute (i know I should have waited longer....much longer). And, then bam! It breaks! Now half of the bolt is left in the nut!
What do I do? Currently I wrapped a cotton rag drenched in PB Blaster around it, hoping by morning it will free up the bolt.
Anything I can do, if that doesn't work aside from taking it a shop and letting them deal with it.
Anyway to break the weld joint on the nut?
the bolt broke. Specifically the left side one. I was taking it off with a socket after letting it soak for a minute (i know I should have waited longer....much longer). And, then bam! It breaks! Now half of the bolt is left in the nut!
What do I do? Currently I wrapped a cotton rag drenched in PB Blaster around it, hoping by morning it will free up the bolt.
Anything I can do, if that doesn't work aside from taking it a shop and letting them deal with it.
Anyway to break the weld joint on the nut?
#15
Moderator
Is there any stem of the bolt left or it snapped flush with the nut? The tip of the bolt extends past the nut and you can try various things, depending on what tools you have.
two nuts with tension against then them can become a bolt heat (you have to apply the torque on the middle nut)
Weld a nut on the tip end.
Use a pipe wrench.
Salim
two nuts with tension against then them can become a bolt heat (you have to apply the torque on the middle nut)
Weld a nut on the tip end.
Use a pipe wrench.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; 07-28-13 at 08:28 AM.