kikaleek88

ended up taking the deck out and finding a remote wire behind there...only problem now is i need a ground for my aftermarket amp in the back. I tried using the hook to strap stuff down but they werent grounded therefor my amp wont turn on..... any ideas on what to ground it to??

kikaleek88

OK!! found somewhere to ground the amp...but now i found out that the wire i used for the remote wire actually doesnt work im gonna try the pink/orange wires to see if that will work but if not i gotta figure out how to access the stock amp to splice the remote wire there....

thanks

marcellus

kikaleek88....if your still around where did you find the find a converter that taps into the rear speakers and converts the low signals to rca plugs. where did you splice your remote wire? I just picked this car up and didn't realize the pain in it

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

LOCs (line output converters) to convert speaker level to line level are a dime a dozen. The quality varies immensely, though. I would recommend the PAC units, as those you get at most stores (even specialty car audio stores) are absolutely awful!

KetchumTheKid

There is a stereo signal, which is full range But with very weak AC voltage, coming from the head unit to the factory amplifier more than likely with some rolloff EQ, So it’s just 2pair of wires each pair for left and right positive and negative. The factory amplifier takes that signal and amplifies it into seven channels and has a built-in crossovers. Each channel is used like this - 2 for the tweeters upfront left and right which the crossover gives high frequency, 2 for the mids in the front doors left and right which the crossover gives mid bass frequency,2 for the coax in the rear doors which the crossover gives speaker level frequency( both high and mid bass) and the seventh 1 channel is for the subwoofer which is centered both left and right (mono) which the crossover gives the lowest bass frequency. Your best bet is to tap into the factory, amplifier output signals depending on what you are upgrading they are much higher voltage sources making the signal cleaner. Feed that signal, into an active line output converter with two channels, one with a high Pass filter, and the other, with a low pass filter like the LC2i or the kicker keyloc. The converter will bump the voltage of the high and low frequency signal up so when it gets to your amplifiers your gains will be minimum and you will have very little noise. You will have to clean sound at that point, but you can get it even better with a equalizer or DPS and basically completely get rid of the factory tune. Yeah Lexus systems are a pain to figure out lol.

salimshah

In between sources and the Amp the signals are in dual differential form and the levels are not standard audio-pre-out. You get L+, L-; R+, R-. The pair [lets just discuss Left channel] of wires are run in parallel next to each other. If an out side noise influences the pair the coupling is the same and you L+ + Noise and L- + Noise [where the " + " is addition]. At the front of the amp there is an SUBTRACT function which sums the two => L+ + Noise - (L- + Noise) => 2L. More details can be found in Wikipedia about how to produce + and - signals and how to add/subtract signals.

The noise is typically from the high energy spikes produced by spark plugs in action.

Salim