Shocks KYB GR-2
#136
OK, so I put the strut back on and broke the nut loose - excellent tip! I wish I had I thought about that before
Now I have a new problem. The bearing has a reddish colored bit on one side (even the new one), it feels a bit rubbery. When the driver's side came off, with the posts on the ground (basically looking at the mount part that faces the spring mount/ground) I could see this reddish, rubbery ring. I thought that was the proper orientation of the bearing (red side "up"). When the passenger side came apart, this was reversed: the reddish part was "down" (facing the sky when installed). There was also a whole bunch of grease around everything, which at first I thought was because the shock was leaking, but now I'm not sure.
If you look at the picture, the top two are of the different bearing orientations as they came out of the vehicle, with the new bearing for clarity. The bottom two are of the bearing from the side at slightly different angles. The side without the reddish bit is flat/concave, while the other is a little rounded. Which way is the correct way to install? Does the red bit face the sky when installed in the vehicle (which means the other side is "up" when putting together) or is it the opposite? Also, do I need grease between the mount and spring seat?
Thanks!
Now I have a new problem. The bearing has a reddish colored bit on one side (even the new one), it feels a bit rubbery. When the driver's side came off, with the posts on the ground (basically looking at the mount part that faces the spring mount/ground) I could see this reddish, rubbery ring. I thought that was the proper orientation of the bearing (red side "up"). When the passenger side came apart, this was reversed: the reddish part was "down" (facing the sky when installed). There was also a whole bunch of grease around everything, which at first I thought was because the shock was leaking, but now I'm not sure.
If you look at the picture, the top two are of the different bearing orientations as they came out of the vehicle, with the new bearing for clarity. The bottom two are of the bearing from the side at slightly different angles. The side without the reddish bit is flat/concave, while the other is a little rounded. Which way is the correct way to install? Does the red bit face the sky when installed in the vehicle (which means the other side is "up" when putting together) or is it the opposite? Also, do I need grease between the mount and spring seat?
Thanks!
#138
Moderator
One more thing I forgot to add ...
After bouncing, the final torquing of nuts and bolts, should be done in loaded (not jacked up position. You can use another jack to compress the springs a bit.
Salim
After bouncing, the final torquing of nuts and bolts, should be done in loaded (not jacked up position. You can use another jack to compress the springs a bit.
Salim
#139
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Hey Lex, thanks for the great walk through on the strut replacement job. I've done shocks and coil springs before and this gives me confidence to do the back struts on my wife's 99 RX300
Just to be clear for the plastic tubing used to replace the spring insulators, the Inside diameter is .75 (A.K.A 3/4 inch)?? Home depots sells 10 foot rolls of 1 inch OD x .75 ID plastic tubing for $18
Regards, Chet
Just to be clear for the plastic tubing used to replace the spring insulators, the Inside diameter is .75 (A.K.A 3/4 inch)?? Home depots sells 10 foot rolls of 1 inch OD x .75 ID plastic tubing for $18
Regards, Chet
#140
I used 5/8" ID-7/8" OD tubing i found at Home Depot and it fit as well.
I had them cut from the bulk roll, you need less than 2 feet per spring just enough to cover the lower coil.
#141
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hi all,
i just had a mechanic replaced my rear struts and links. RX300, 180,000 miles. AWD. 2001 model.
i took the suv on a highway and at 60+ mph and it starts to make alot of noise (as if you drive on the grooved road on the breakdown lane on the highway kind of noise) on the rear. i took it back and he jack it up the air and tightened some nuts and bolts. i took it for another ride on the highway and the problem is reduced by about 50% but its still there.
What do i tell the mechanic?
please help, i just spent $600 for parts and labor and i am having a new set of problem.......
i just had a mechanic replaced my rear struts and links. RX300, 180,000 miles. AWD. 2001 model.
i took the suv on a highway and at 60+ mph and it starts to make alot of noise (as if you drive on the grooved road on the breakdown lane on the highway kind of noise) on the rear. i took it back and he jack it up the air and tightened some nuts and bolts. i took it for another ride on the highway and the problem is reduced by about 50% but its still there.
What do i tell the mechanic?
please help, i just spent $600 for parts and labor and i am having a new set of problem.......
#142
hi all,
i just had a mechanic replaced my rear struts and links. RX300, 180,000 miles. AWD. 2001 model.
i took the suv on a highway and at 60+ mph and it starts to make alot of noise (as if you drive on the grooved road on the breakdown lane on the highway kind of noise) on the rear. i took it back and he jack it up the air and tightened some nuts and bolts. i took it for another ride on the highway and the problem is reduced by about 50% but its still there.
What do i tell the mechanic?
please help, i just spent $600 for parts and labor and i am having a new set of problem.......
i just had a mechanic replaced my rear struts and links. RX300, 180,000 miles. AWD. 2001 model.
i took the suv on a highway and at 60+ mph and it starts to make alot of noise (as if you drive on the grooved road on the breakdown lane on the highway kind of noise) on the rear. i took it back and he jack it up the air and tightened some nuts and bolts. i took it for another ride on the highway and the problem is reduced by about 50% but its still there.
What do i tell the mechanic?
please help, i just spent $600 for parts and labor and i am having a new set of problem.......
#143
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1 KYB GR-2 Gas Damper (each) In Stock $96.00 $96.00
1 KYB GR-2 Gas Damper (each) In Stock $96.00 $96.00
2 Spc 15mm ez cam bolts(pr) In Stock $26.00 $52.00
2 KYB Strut/Shock Mount (each) In Stock $15.00 $30.00
2 KYB Strut/Shock Mount (each)
Also not listed are the swaybar links that he also replaced.
#144
The KYB mounts have been reported to be an issue by a ton of guys on here. I know KYB makes great shocks and struts, but apparently they outsource the mounts for this car and they suck.
#145
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Can someone with any strut knowledge/experience please help?
the machenic tied all the bolts like i mentioned above and it helped for about 1 day and progressively it has gotton worse.
this issue only happen when speed hits 60+ mph on highway and it felt when i slightly turn the steering to the left or release the gas pedal while on highway.
this issue is only felt on the rear and the car doesnt pull left or right, its just making the noise like when you have a flat tire and still driving but its not as dad as actual tire is flat but the feeling is like that.
is it a bad kyb mount? can the machenic tell if he remove it?
should i tell him to put the car on the ground and tighten up the bolts again from the inside of the vehicle?
the machenic tied all the bolts like i mentioned above and it helped for about 1 day and progressively it has gotton worse.
this issue only happen when speed hits 60+ mph on highway and it felt when i slightly turn the steering to the left or release the gas pedal while on highway.
this issue is only felt on the rear and the car doesnt pull left or right, its just making the noise like when you have a flat tire and still driving but its not as dad as actual tire is flat but the feeling is like that.
is it a bad kyb mount? can the machenic tell if he remove it?
should i tell him to put the car on the ground and tighten up the bolts again from the inside of the vehicle?
#148
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#149
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#150
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