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Old 06-19-07, 04:11 AM   #31
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GILLEXUS - it was just something I had read somewhere. I will see if I can dig it back up.

For an average person, I would say you'd have spend approximately $100~200 depending on what you select to use. As mentioned, for around $60 or so, again, depending on the size of core, etc, you should be able to purchase the core. Tranny cooler are the same as those that are used as oil coolers. The hardest part about DIYing would be the placement of the cooler and then running of the lines.
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Old 06-19-07, 05:51 AM   #32
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GSteg...I just ordered the same tranny cooler as you for $65/shipped also; awaiting delivery...
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Old 06-19-07, 06:59 AM   #33
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I paid $40 for mine & $14 for the lines and Did it my self.
I went w/ the 20,000GVW one it is 5 1/2x 11".
The next size up is comparable to the B&M one 24,000GVW-7 3/4 x 11. The Hayden Transaver Plus one have the staked fins style like the B & M.Super Cooler.

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...yden-transaver
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Old 06-19-07, 07:38 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock-a-Lex View Post
GSteg...I just ordered the same tranny cooler as you for $65/shipped also; awaiting delivery...
You should have hit me up..i know a spot that's local that had it. i picked mine up for $65 with tax and all. I have the 678 installed after the aux cooler as stated by GSteg...



Thickness 3/4", Height 11", Length 9 1/2", Core 7 1/4". OEM type plate and fin design. Space efficient design fits more vehicles. Electrostatic powder coating to resist corrosion. Push on installation.

Applications guidelines:
Trucks motorhomes, and SUV's towing up to 5,000 lbs. (2300 KG)



I had some temp issues (it would get hot) at first but I narrowed it down to a coolant issue i had when i changed my thermostat. So I resolved that problem and now my temp needle hasn't budged No problems whatsoever.

If you need help on installing it . Hit me up , I gotcha. Oh your going to need an extra line if you install it on the driver side of the radiator. Your also going to need a little bit more ATF. Maybe 1/2qt.

Oh for the record the TRD cooler is actually a Hayden cooler. Toyota recommends you connect it after the stock cooler.
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Old 06-19-07, 08:09 AM   #35
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All right guys, here's the source where I got the info in regards to stainless steel lines -

Title - 1001 more High Performance Tech Tips
Published by - The Berkley Publishing Group / HPBooks
First Edition - October 2004
ISBN - 1-55722-429-3
Author - Wayne Scraba

Page 54 - Trany Coolers

Some racers swear by transmissions coolers. Others swear at them. If you choose to run a cooler, Jim Beattie from ATI offers this plumbing advice: "Think about using stock-style steel lines from the transmission to the cooler. Steel lines have fittings with larger ID's and are less restrictive than a typical AN fitting. Not all transmission cases are tapped for pipe thread and many transmission cases have been broken at the fittings bosses by racers installing AN fittings. If braided hoses are used, they must be Teflon lined. The standard rubber-lined hoses can acquire an internal blockage due to the oil getting between the lining and the other braid. The symptom will be a very hot converter and a cold cooler. If you use AN hose, size -8 should be the minimum. Consider drilling the ID of the AN fittings to at least the OEM diameter. AN quick disconnects are very restrictive and should not be used in a cooler installation. Instead of AN hose, think about using steel line. It's available at all parts stores in one-foot increments and is most often sold as brake line. This type of line has the correct fittings and is easily bent to the right shape by hand. The second flare should be left on the line and clamp the connector hose behind the flare. Push back the fittings or sit the fitting with a hacksaw and remove it."
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Old 06-19-07, 08:15 AM   #36
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Here's my B&M core that I just got in today. Summit Racing has them listed at $61.95.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

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Old 06-19-07, 09:29 AM   #37
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Thanks G...I would have hit you up but I was in "window shopper" mode on the net. lol! I know I can install it myself but I'm too lazy and am always real busy on weekends. I'm just going to have the shop install it when I get my TC/LSD/shafts installed...one clean sweep. Then I gots to get my a$$ out to you guys and see some of that crazy FI that u got goin' on there.
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Old 06-19-07, 09:34 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCMango View Post
Here's my B&M core that I just got in today. Summit Racing has them listed at $61.95.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku


Also guys, you'll need to buy some extra 3/8" hose. Buy 6ft additional hose just incase
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Old 06-19-07, 09:41 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock-a-Lex View Post
Thanks G...I would have hit you up but I was in "window shopper" mode on the net. lol! I know I can install it myself but I'm too lazy and am always real busy on weekends. I'm just going to have the shop install it when I get my TC/LSD/shafts installed...one clean sweep. Then I gots to get my a$$ out to you guys and see some of that crazy FI that u got goin' on there.

it literally takes about 15-20 mins to install. Its that easy. Stop being lazy..LMAO
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Old 06-19-07, 09:45 AM   #40
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Remember, some people already take minutes to remove their front bumper

Actual installation of the cooler is indeed 15-20 minutes.

I made of a mistake of not buying enough hose. I was 2" short . Had to run back to the store and buy more hoses, which cost me more in the end!
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Old 06-19-07, 09:52 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSteg View Post
Remember, some people already take minutes to remove their front bumper

Actual installation of the cooler is indeed 15-20 minutes.

I made of a mistake of not buying enough hose. I was 2" short . Had to run back to the store and buy more hoses, which cost me more in the end!
LOL. I bought extra hose just so that wouldn't happen due to past experiences... I would've been pulling my hair out ..2"? dam.

I didn't remove my bumper but i did remove the engine cover underneath. i did it all from the engine bay. It was a little bit of a hassle to get the plastic holders through but once i did the first one the rest was easy.
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Old 06-19-07, 09:55 AM   #42
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I fully mounted mine with metal brackets. I didn't use the plastic stuff because I like heavy duty.

I didn't even think the plastic thing would fit so I junked it. Maybe that's why my install took a bit longer. I had to drill into the front metal beam. After awhile of cursing and throwing things around, I finally got it solid as a rock . I'm sure your experience was much better LOL!
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Old 06-19-07, 09:56 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSteg View Post
I fully mounted mine with metal brackets. I didn't use the plastic stuff because I like heavy duty.

I didn't even think the plastic thing would fit so I junked it. Maybe that's why my install took a bit longer. I had to drill into the front metal beam. After awhile of cursing and throwing things around, I finally got it solid as a rock . I'm sure your experience was much better LOL!
LMAO... yeah i scraped my fingers up against the radiator several times.. it was tons of fun.
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Old 06-19-07, 10:57 AM   #44
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See and this is exactly what I'm NOT looking forward to...

Oh it might take you 15-20 minutes but....don't you have super powers or something??? lol
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Old 06-19-07, 11:06 AM   #45
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If you're using the plastic clips they give you, then you dont need to do any drilling or anything.

In my case, the worse was drilling into the metal beam. Even then, all I needed was a drill and self-tapping screw.
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