chek128

Why would ride quality change?

aninzo

Can anyone please guide me? Researched and researched for a while now and i cant seem to move on to start this build. I'm looking forward to swapping in a 2JZGTE VVTI Aristo engine into my 2001 GS430. I am aware of the wiring issues i will run into and how hectic it will be because its an 01+. What is the best route in dealing with this wiring situation? I'm stuck with my 430 and coming from GUAM, cars like these are hard to find in good shape and i cant find a 98-00 GS300 just like that to make it an easier swap. Can anyone guide me on this wiring issue. Please email me at herschel.aninzo@yahoo.com

surranman

I just put in the order to start something similar, doing a 2JZGTE Aristo VVTi Auto swap into my '00 GS300. I've been reading a lot and trying to compile everything I need before actually putting it in, came across this:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-thread-9.html
if you go to Kipod's #124 post for this thread you may find what you're looking for, he seemed to provide a pretty good Pin-out regarding the wiring changes from the GS400 to Aristo. I know you have a GS430 but I'm hoping only the displacement is different and the wiring is the same. Hope this helps and good luck with your build!

99 GS3

iTrader: (14)

The 98-00 gs300 and gs400 share the same pin sizes and chassis harness layout as the 97-05 aristo, which is what ki-pod's thread is reffereing to. The 01-05 gs430 is the reason the 01-05 gs300 ecu, pin sizes, and chassis layout changed. The usdm gs300/2jz/ecu was reconfigured to adapted the to required changes the gs430 need, so that the chassis production was the same whether it was going to become a 300 or a 430 on the assembly line.

So a gs400 basically need pin location changes in the ecu. But the gs430 shares the exact same work that the 01+ gs300 requires, it is the same task. The pins/ecu connectors are different sizes and the uses the smaller toyota pin type, and the chassis side wiring has quite a few changes to the body functions wire locations.

It's not rocket science, you still just put the gte in the car, and wire it up. All that is needed is the pinout for both ecu's that are readily available on the web, and a multimeter to identify and connect the chassis side connections for the required functions.

2jzgary

Ok for starters I have 2001 2jz-ge gs300 with 210k miles. The car was running perfect till about 2 weeks ago. I've had a muffler delete on the car for quite some time now and never experienced and unusual noise other than that sexy 2jz. But in the recent days I believe an exhaust leak opened on my downpipe where the exhaust connects to the 3rd and last catalytic converter to be specific. My issue is a loud hissing noise everytime the rpms pass 1.5k and the engine feels extremely sluggish on acceleration. If I had to say the 0-60 time is now atleast 15 seconds where as it should be 7-8 seconds. It has a hard time keeping up with fast moving traffic from a stopped position. I did order a new downpipe hoping it will fix the issue. But Im not 100% why the car is having so much hesitation on acceleration. Thanks for your help!

surranman

Thanks for clarifying that, makes sense Lexus would want the same chassis produced for the different displacement GS's.

surranman

According to a video I watched on resetting the stored key hex values on an ECU with an immobilizer, the values are stored on a certain chip. If resetting the hex values to zero on this certain chip actually allows you to start programming new/used keys to the ECU, would it be safe to assume the same chip on my stock 2JZGE ECU holds the values that work with my locks and ignition? Following this same assumption, has anyone tried swapping this chip to an ECU that came on an Aristo swap?

Back story: I made the mistake of ordering a 2JZGTE with an immobilizer ECU. Options to start my engine when I'm done with the swap are:

1. paying a locksmith to reflash the JDM ECU ($320 even if it doesn't work)
2. ordering an ECU w/o immobilizer ($200 and possibly selling my 2JZGE and 2JZGTEw/immo ECU's)
3. swapping that chip (nothing extra out of pocket)

Any advice is much appreciated My advice in return is if you plan on doing the Aristo swap, know if you want to deal with an immobilizer, know if you're going Auto or Manual, and know if your engine is VVTi or nonVVTi. The part number for 2JZGTE ECU Auto Trans VVTi w/o Immobilizer is 89661-3A470.
Cheers

LexLova

im currently in the same boat with -30180 ecu , looking for a solution

surranman

yup that's the same one that came with mine. I ended up ordering another ECU because I want to start the car, but I'd like to swap that chip and see if it works because keeping anti theft would be nice

LexLova

if you do , keep us posted. We'll appreciate it . Btw how is the beast running , and is it BPU

LexLova

if you do , keep us posted. We'll appreciate it . Btw how is the beast running , and is it BPU

surranman

So I read other resources and it does look like IC900 is the chip that holds this information. I tried to get the solder on the 8 pins melted enough with a solder gun to pull it off, but I have no experience with soldering and the IC900 chip wouldn't budge. I looked at another video on how to remove IC's from a Printed Circuit Board and I think what's happening is by the time I get to the other side of the chip the first half hardens and it holds it into place. What I need to get is a sort of suction pen that gets the molten solder out of the pin holes so it doesn't harden again. I'll keep updating as I work through this. I tried calling local circuit board repair companies to price a chip swap (if it's cheaper than buying a non-immo ECU then why not have the added security?) but they only seem to do commercial work ;(

I should be renting an engine hoist today and swapping the engine/tranny.

I do plan on BPU, don't want it too fast when my son starts driving it in a few years hehe.

99 GS3

iTrader: (14)

You need to use solder wick to absorb the solder off the pins. Goot brand is by far the best I've used over the years, you can grab some on ebay or amazon for a couple dollars. These oem boards are coated for corrosion resistance which also impeads the ease of desoldering. No idea if what you are trying to do will work like described on other models, but good luck and maybe the concept will end up applying to the gs...

surranman

Sweet, I'll order that wick, thanks 99GS3!

So I didn't get the engine out, I was looking at a parts diagram for the engine mounts and noticed a nut underneath. I can't for the life of me figure out how to access these (there are 2 bolts both possibly with nuts on each side). The problem is the cross member they sit on doesn't have noticeable access to remove the nuts from underneath (wanted to reuse the mounts on the GTE ). Is removing the single big bolt on top of the mount the only way to pull the engine?

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

a Desoldering iron also works.... and no I'm not kidding. I use them a lot especially when I did my LED's and audio stuff

this is a cheap one but should work ok

https://www.walmart.com/ip/DESOLDERI...&wl13=&veh=sem