Just finished my 1jz swap into 92 sc300 now the car wont start
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Just finished my 1jz swap into 92 sc300 now the car wont start
I just finished swapping a 1jzgte out of a soarer into my sc300, We extended the body harness did everything nice didn't half *** any of the wiring. we used a patch harness for the ecu wire extension.
Also while swapping the motor we did a manual conversion, I didn't jump anything as I couldn't find any clutch switch wiring but the key will turn the starter over.
12v mod is done with a different fuel pump we added the 440 cc injectors into the fuel rail.
When you turn over the car you can hear compression and you can hear it start to sputter a little bit after a few seconds like maybe 1 or 2 cyl fired for a second and smell raw fuel.
I changed out the plugs and checked everything on the top of the motor. I remember when we were doing the body harness extension there was 2 black and something striped wires that were exactly the same next to each other maybe one of those 2 got switched around Not sure if anyone has any idea of 2 wires on the body harness that look exactly the same.
I believe its not sparking on some cylinders
It kind of does what this guys 1j is doing except it doesn't end up rotating that fast
Could anything from the auto to manual swap be messing with the motor causing it to not spark on some of the cylinders?
Also while swapping the motor we did a manual conversion, I didn't jump anything as I couldn't find any clutch switch wiring but the key will turn the starter over.
12v mod is done with a different fuel pump we added the 440 cc injectors into the fuel rail.
When you turn over the car you can hear compression and you can hear it start to sputter a little bit after a few seconds like maybe 1 or 2 cyl fired for a second and smell raw fuel.
I changed out the plugs and checked everything on the top of the motor. I remember when we were doing the body harness extension there was 2 black and something striped wires that were exactly the same next to each other maybe one of those 2 got switched around Not sure if anyone has any idea of 2 wires on the body harness that look exactly the same.
I believe its not sparking on some cylinders
It kind of does what this guys 1j is doing except it doesn't end up rotating that fast
Could anything from the auto to manual swap be messing with the motor causing it to not spark on some of the cylinders?
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Today out of no where it tried to start like the video, All the injectors are pulsing and have 12v when starting. cyl 1,3,5 have a super weak spark and are getting 7v. 2,4,6 are getting a good strong spark.
I was measuring the voltage on the coils and for some reason it started to get 7v to both legs of the coils then didnt want to make any attempt to try and start. any ideas? Checked the codes just 1 code for fuel pump code 78 which the fuel pump is working perfect and has 12v
I was measuring the voltage on the coils and for some reason it started to get 7v to both legs of the coils then didnt want to make any attempt to try and start. any ideas? Checked the codes just 1 code for fuel pump code 78 which the fuel pump is working perfect and has 12v
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Looks like That brown and orange wire/ black orange wire i was talking about might be connected wrong how odd. i will check tomorrow. correct me if im wrong.
#6
Driver
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I'm not too familiar with the 1JZ but, have you checked all your various grounds? Low voltage can often be the result of something as simple as a bad ground. I know you mentioned a potential wiring issue in your original post.
In any event, I'd start by working back from the coils. Check the wiring from the coils to the igniter, check voltage at the igniter and the ground as well. What about wiring from the igniter to the ECU?
Also, and maybe it's dumb, but I was looking at some 2JZ swap stuff before... Does the 1JZ have some sort of immobilizer built into the ECU?
In any event, I'd start by working back from the coils. Check the wiring from the coils to the igniter, check voltage at the igniter and the ground as well. What about wiring from the igniter to the ECU?
Also, and maybe it's dumb, but I was looking at some 2JZ swap stuff before... Does the 1JZ have some sort of immobilizer built into the ECU?
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#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
checked the orange and black wire on the igniter and filter they are only getting 5-9 volts when i put a test light on the wires with the key forward you can hear the fuel pump slow down alot. so that means some wire isnt getting enough voltage hopefully that narrows it down for someone. i checked the ecu + wires they all get 12v odd how 2 4 6 are getting 12v some of the wires on the igniter are getting 12v so i think from the wiring diagram it has 2 sources of 12 my brains not working too well today.
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Hey just wanted to update everyone, Got it running pulled out the wires again and saw that one of the 2 black and orange wires came loose and it was causing it to not fire 3 of the cyl car runs great now i appreciate everyone's help. The alternator mod to wire it in by pinning it into the plug doesnt work you need to run a switched 12 volt to the black and yellow wire then it will start charging
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