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Ok sooooooo I opened my valve covers and this is what i found... this car was sitting for a while and I honestly neglected the oil changes and have been running 15 pounds and fairly lean... so ya
no knocks or abnormal noises from the engine I'm just wondering what the ***** do I do to get this grime off of my head, I though about brake cleaner but I don't want it to degrade the lube lol I have another 1J head that I could put on but Im wondering if I should try and restore this one or does this mean its gone already like I said still runs perfectly.. looking for anybody with experienced opinions THANKS
Also this oil is grainy as ****
Well first off, WTH man, why would you neglect a swapped car like that??? Makes me cringe, BUT I'm not your dad, do what ya want...
I would at the least change the oil and filter with some super cheap stuff and substitute one quart of oil for a quart of ATF for like 150 miles and then drain and fill with some good oil and another new filter. The ATF will clean the **** out of the motor, if its salvageable at all. If not, you deserve it
That's awesome. Your oil appears to be not reaching operating temperature. Are you driving the car only short distances in addition to never changing the oil? Aftermarket oil-cooler? The biggest worry is breaking too much sludge loose at once and clogging an oil passage or scratching camshaft lobes/bearings with debris. I would do an immediate oil change to a 5w-30 (what oil weight are you using currently?), oil filter change to the Toyota (Denso-brand) JDM 90915-20003 standard size or the slightly larger 90915-20004. The JDM filters are better at picking up and retaining large debris/shavings. You then need to DRIVE your car for long periods on the freeway/highway. At least thirty minute trips with as little stop-n-go traffic as possible. You want the engine to reach proper operating temperature and to slowly begin breaking down the sludge. In any car engine, it's the coolant that reaches 'normal' operating temperature first, but the oil is still warming up and it could take ten minutes or more AFTER the coolant has warmed up to finally reach its operating temperature. I would open the valve covers after the first 250 miles and see what the difference is. You'll probably want to do another oil change at that time and a new oil filter every other oil change. The next oil change can be at 500 miles of continued highway driving, pulling the valve covers, seeing how the camshafts look, you'll get a feel for it. If you have an oil temperature gauge (and you should) you need to see a minimum of 215 to 235 degrees Fahrenheit, otherwise you're running the oil too cold. Change the PCV valve with a new OEM one. You may need to go through four or five oil changes and a couple of oil filter changes in under 2,000 miles of highway/freeway driving before noticing a marked improvement.
Having said all of that, the 'correct' thing to do is to pull the head, strip it, have it cleaned by a machine shop, tolerances checked, and re-assembled.....but that's obviously a much bigger hassle.
Well first off, WTH man, why would you neglect a swapped car like that??? Makes me cringe, BUT I'm not your dad, do what ya want...
I would at the least change the oil and filter with some super cheap stuff and substitute one quart of oil for a quart of ATF for like 150 miles and then drain and fill with some good oil and another new filter. The ATF will clean the **** out of the motor, if its salvageable at all. If not, you deserve it
The car was parked for almost 2 years so im sure this was already going on, granted I should have checked sooner... I know all my cars are super upkept but I havent been driving this one as much so yeah I KNOW
That's awesome. Your oil appears to be not reaching operating temperature. Are you driving the car only short distances in addition to never changing the oil? Aftermarket oil-cooler? The biggest worry is breaking too much sludge loose at once and clogging an oil passage or scratching camshaft lobes/bearings with debris. I would do an immediate oil change to a 5w-30 (what oil weight are you using currently?), oil filter change to the Toyota (Denso-brand) JDM 90915-20003 standard size or the slightly larger 90915-20004. The JDM filters are better at picking up and retaining large debris/shavings. You then need to DRIVE your car for long periods on the freeway/highway. At least thirty minute trips with as little stop-n-go traffic as possible. You want the engine to reach proper operating temperature and to slowly begin breaking down the sludge. In any car engine, it's the coolant that reaches 'normal' operating temperature first, but the oil is still warming up and it could take ten minutes or more AFTER the coolant has warmed up to finally reach its operating temperature. I would open the valve covers after the first 250 miles and see what the difference is. You'll probably want to do another oil change at that time and a new oil filter every other oil change. The next oil change can be at 500 miles of continued highway driving, pulling the valve covers, seeing how the camshafts look, you'll get a feel for it. If you have an oil temperature gauge (and you should) you need to see a minimum of 215 to 235 degrees Fahrenheit, otherwise you're running the oil too cold. Change the PCV valve with a new OEM one. You may need to go through four or five oil changes and a couple of oil filter changes in under 2,000 miles of highway/freeway driving before noticing a marked improvement.
Having said all of that, the 'correct' thing to do is to pull the head, strip it, have it cleaned by a machine shop, tolerances checked, and re-assembled.....but that's obviously a much bigger hassle.
- Have fun
Yes, Ive barely drive this car except to work on fridays or weekends and it was sitting for 2 years before I got it, I had to change the fuel tank that was obliterated in rust and a bunch of other things so this is not really a surprise.. Thanks for the detailed reply, I'll do the change ASAP I mean some of the lobes are black so hopefully it comes out.... here is my other head which I am thinking of sending to the machine shop if this does'nt clear up, I mean how do you think the bottom end is? is the head more prone to this sludge? or does the bottom end equally loook like crap cause Im looking to push more boost, also if a cam lobe has a small knick in it in the center is it still good?
Yes, Ive barely drive this car except to work on fridays or weekends and it was sitting for 2 years before I got it, I had to change the fuel tank that was obliterated in rust and a bunch of other things so this is not really a surprise.. Thanks for the detailed reply, I'll do the change ASAP I mean some of the lobes are black so hopefully it comes out.... here is my other head which I am thinking of sending to the machine shop if this does'nt clear up, I mean how do you think the bottom end is? is the head more prone to this sludge? or does the bottom end equally loook like crap cause Im looking to push more boost, also if a cam lobe has a small knick in it in the center is it still good?
Dude,
If you're looking to increase boost then have the extra head professionally cleaned and prepped for installation; don't even waste your time on the sludged head. A small nick can be polished out but an engine shop will be able to make a better determination than I can.
If you're looking to increase boost then have the extra head professionally cleaned and prepped for installation; don't even waste your time on the sludged head. A small nick can be polished out but an engine shop will be able to make a better determination than I can.
OK, thanks again. Do you think the bottom end suffered though?
i scraped it out with paper towels the best i could and did an oil change less than 100 miles later and it came out the blackest oil ive ever seen. after that i drove 3000 miles and did an oil change but added seafoam for 15 min before doing it and it came out pretty dark too. now i am another 3000 miles in (6000 mille mark since swap) and the oil is only brown, not even black.
you should be fine as long as nothing happened on the bottom end, my bottom end looked ok on the motor before i put it in.
your oil wont get to operating temp if you drive < 10 min at a time.
I bet the physical block is fine. If you have a spare head that's a great luxury, it would only make sense to send it off to get freshened up. If you wanna get particular you could drop the oil pan and really check it out. Use some throw away rags and wipe down the underside of the rotating assembly as best you can and fill it back up with 3 quarts crappy oil, 1 quart ATF. 150 miles later, drain and refill, replace the oil filter with an OEM Toyota filter and you should be set.
i scraped it out with paper towels the best i could and did an oil change less than 100 miles later and it came out the blackest oil ive ever seen. after that i drove 3000 miles and did an oil change but added seafoam for 15 min before doing it and it came out pretty dark too. now i am another 3000 miles in (6000 mille mark since swap) and the oil is only brown, not even black.
you should be fine as long as nothing happened on the bottom end, my bottom end looked ok on the motor before i put it in.
your oil wont get to operating temp if you drive < 10 min at a time.
i would do the atf trick above
WOW LOL, thats looks like burnt toast. Thanks for the input ima start with this flush and see what sup, the inside of the head a gold color now or still dark?
I bet the physical block is fine. If you have a spare head that's a great luxury, it would only make sense to send it off to get freshened up. If you wanna get particular you could drop the oil pan and really check it out. Use some throw away rags and wipe down the underside of the rotating assembly as best you can and fill it back up with 3 quarts crappy oil, 1 quart ATF. 150 miles later, drain and refill, replace the oil filter with an OEM Toyota filter and you should be set.
Alright either way the motor will be pulled after the flush is finished and I am going to drop the pan and check it out
12-30-15, 04:13 PM
1JZ grime!!! (camshafts/head)
