97+ SC300 Radiator
03-10-16, 03:23 PM
#17
The only Denso I could find was part number "221-3118" which says 92-97. If you're referring to that, then there is one for sale for $100 on amazon.
03-11-16, 04:05 AM
#18
In any case, does this part number "221-3118 will fit with my 98 sc300 without any modification?
Thanks
03-15-16, 10:31 AM
#20
After speaking to ToyoLex rep, he confirmed to me that it is OEM replacement for Toyota part# 16400-46470. Also, he asked me for the VIN# and confirmed that it is the right part.
03-24-16, 10:25 AM
#21
Those rubber pieces you used, those don't just look like a single size, it looks like some reducer, it has a drastic size change on the one end. I'm having a hard time finding something that looks like that.
I find something like this, but it doesn't change sizes like yours.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_439668-37672...tt=rubber+plug
I find something like this, but it doesn't change sizes like yours.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_439668-37672...tt=rubber+plug
Here you go, Halon 
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...0-5-speed.html
This guide would be 99% the same for a Mishimoto radiator. I suggest you avoid Fluidyne (used to be good, nowadays NOT good).
Supra style radiators don't bolt in 100% without any modification but it's very minimal modification in my opinion. The use of a Supra TT style fan shroud is optional. I did it but that's because I am putting a 2JZGTE into my car and I wanted the TT's auxiliary A/C fan. You can get your stock fan shroud to fit with some extra work. Also, the removable plastic curve that goes underneath your stock SC shroud is the same part used in the same location on a Supra TT shroud.
If you have an automatic SC you need to hook up an aftermarket transmission cooler... but ALL aftermarket radiators for Supras are like that.
And all of these radiators need a small coolant sensor area plugged since we don't have that component but Supras do. That's addressed in the DIY.
Denso still sells a factory SC300 replacement radiator too.
Interesting but not surprising that the 92-96 OEM radiators are actually better than the 97-00 OEM radiators.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...0-5-speed.html
This guide would be 99% the same for a Mishimoto radiator. I suggest you avoid Fluidyne (used to be good, nowadays NOT good).
Supra style radiators don't bolt in 100% without any modification but it's very minimal modification in my opinion. The use of a Supra TT style fan shroud is optional. I did it but that's because I am putting a 2JZGTE into my car and I wanted the TT's auxiliary A/C fan. You can get your stock fan shroud to fit with some extra work. Also, the removable plastic curve that goes underneath your stock SC shroud is the same part used in the same location on a Supra TT shroud.
If you have an automatic SC you need to hook up an aftermarket transmission cooler... but ALL aftermarket radiators for Supras are like that.
And all of these radiators need a small coolant sensor area plugged since we don't have that component but Supras do. That's addressed in the DIY.
Denso still sells a factory SC300 replacement radiator too.
Interesting but not surprising that the 92-96 OEM radiators are actually better than the 97-00 OEM radiators.
03-25-16, 06:06 AM
#22
I am installing the new radiator but the foam around the old radiator is completely worn out on my 98 sc300. where can I get a replacement or other alternatives? I called the dealer and Advance Auto they do not have it.
thanks,
thanks,
03-25-16, 12:37 PM
#23
03-26-16, 04:14 AM
#24
So Toyolex shipped me the Denso 41409 221-3118. Looks like the same model as for the 97. In terms of fitness, no modification required it fit exactly to my 98 sc300. One minor thing is I have to buy the foam surrounding from home depot.
See some pics.
See some pics.
03-26-16, 05:34 AM
#25
Those rubber pieces you used, those don't just look like a single size, it looks like some reducer, it has a drastic size change on the one end. I'm having a hard time finding something that looks like that.
I find something like this, but it doesn't change sizes like yours.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_439668-37672...tt=rubber+plug
I find something like this, but it doesn't change sizes like yours.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_439668-37672...tt=rubber+plug
Halon,
That piece looks pretty close to one of the pieces I used. What I did was put it into a vise and actually drill it out. The long plastic bits in my thread pictures were intended for small diameter sprinkler connections I think. The "reducer" rubber bits were just in the aisle I was searching for the other rubber bits. I really don't know what they were called.
What I did was just take a measurement of the height I'd need (or maybe someone listed it somewhere) and I went to Lowes and RIFLED through every drawer they had with thick rubber stoppers and other such bits to find what I needed. Those center plastic tubes were just to stabilize the two rubber pieces in between the marine epoxy glue.
The solid rubber stopper that I drilled into (VERY similar to the one you found on Lowes' website) was the one I needed to make a hole just the right size for the radiator guide pins to fit into. It was part of the correct height needed.
The other stopper just needed to be the remainder of the correct height and it didn't matter as much that the hole it had was much larger in diameter. All I wanted to do with that was allow some protrusion of the plastic tubes so that the whole thing would guide in and rest easy on the SC300 stock rubber radiator mounts.
I also let the glue set for a day or two. At least 24 hours before I turned on the engine and drove it.
The plastic tubes inside the custom rubber stoppers were helped into the right depth a bit while the glue was still curing by installing the radiator onto them. However I measured the Koyo radiator guide pins and made sure my custom mounts had enough acceptable depth to accept them to begin with.
When you do this, the most important thing is to keep the height adjustment accurate (refer to my Koyo radiator thread notes) and to find some way to allow the radiator guide pin/posts a secure fit. Once you tighten down the factory SC radiator top clamps it will all hold sturdily into place.
Those plastic tubes protrude down a bit in my SC but they aren't visible unless you get into there and don't hurt anything.
My solution wasn't 100% clean but it did the job very well and I figured the marine epoxy was good for the hot underhood environment.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 03-26-16 at 05:40 AM.
10-11-16, 02:33 PM
#26
Thanks all.
10-12-16, 07:52 AM
#29
