mk4r34

iTrader: (1)

I replaced the coolant sensor to diagnose the warm weather rough starts and now it's throwing a CODE 22"Coolant Temp Circuit"and cold start up is very rough/rich that it about stalls(so I keep rpm's up) after about a min it gets warm than idles ok.Pulled battery,fuse,radiator cap off and start to get any air bubbles out and nothing.During install I accidentally pulled the other coolant temp sensor next to it by the wire so I added wire and re-soldered to fix.Is there Aanyway to diagnose if it's the new temp sensor I installed or maybe the other coolant sensor I fixed?

Thanks for any advice.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

There are 2 temp sensors. the 1 wire goes to the gauge cluster, and the 2 wire (green connector usually) goes to the ecu. the 2 wire matters the most for how it runs, the 1 wire matters for what your cluster shows. you do not want to pull on the wire you may have messed up the contact inside the sensor. maybe you can do a resistance check across the pins on the 2 wire one to see if its still good, which one did you break/repair?

SpooledSC

iTrader: (1)

More than likely you damaged the sensor you pulled by wire. Pull connector off the one you replaced and see if it sets a different code. If so you know its the one you mucked up. And like Ali Sc3 said, the one that matters is the one that goes to the ECU (Drivability wise.)

mk4r34

iTrader: (1)

The one that got pulled out from the connector was the one next to the (right)green sensor that i just replaced.I took the connector apart added wire and re-soldered.It seemed pretty solid?I did notice just driving down the road that the temp gauge moved faster to operating temperature.So with knowing what sensor(green) needs attention are there any bad stories on after market coolant sensors?

mk4r34

iTrader: (1)

I'll give it a try but,I would think looking at codes that 22 accounts for all three sensors there?IDK

SpooledSC

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure if it does in the SC's.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I am pretty sure there is no code for the 1 wire sensor, you know its not working when your gauge cluster does not read the temperature at all or is stuck in one position. if your gauges cluster went from cold to middle hot its probably fine.

The code 22 is for the green sensor or the wiring going to it, insure its not pinched, and the connector clicked into place. the 1 wire I explained above and the third one in that area is an oil pressure sensor, has nothing to do with coolant. maybe try resetting the ecu and see if it works after that. It is possible to get a faulty one but I have no idea how often that happens with the aftermarkets.

soarer13oy

iTrader: (13)

Check for continuity from sensor to ecu

mk4r34

iTrader: (1)

So going through the 3 sensors the one furthest to the right is the gauge cluster sending unit.Even with the other single wire sensor disconnected it didn't make a difference so we know now that it is the main(green)coolant sensor.One wire on it looked real loose so I took that connector apart and re-soldered but,now rushing to get to work the plug won't click in so I drove it like that.I almost couldn't leave work today cause at start up it was bogging badly and a couple pops from fuel being dumped.Once it's up to temp it drives ok idles a little higher(1000rpm).I can only go back and check the wires but,at a loss on what to do since its such a tight spot to work with.Would be a little easier if the wire harness wasn't in the way!!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

sounds like your connector has a problem for the main coolant sensor, the only one you need to worry about is the green 2 wire on, the other ones do not affect how the car drives.

mk4r34

iTrader: (1)

your right about that Ali,I was trying to fix it before work and 1.I got it to lock in place 2.playing with the terminal inside it seems it doesn't have a solid contact that the check engine went away for a sec.Tom.I will pull the plug out again and maybe glue in the terminal so they don't move around cause they were loose today.I'll update later.If that does fix it then maybe down the road I'll find a parts car and get a more solid connector off it.

mk4r34

iTrader: (1)

FIXED!!! it was a weak connection.I swapped the female pin connector from another plug laying around so it has a good connection now.It seemed even when it was plugged in it was either pushing the pin or not getting a solid contact.Overall check light is off it' running like it should only difference is it idles a little higher(1400rpm)on start up but,maybe the ecu still needs to adjust memory?Anyways thanks for the input guys

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah reset the ecu and it will learn faster. 1400 on first start it not uncommon, it should eventually want to idle around 1100 cold start and 650-800 when warm. if its freezing out it may go higher than 1100 initially but should settle there shortly.

mk4r34

iTrader: (1)

Thanks,i got the sensor working now.When I was connecting the plug I think it was pushing one of the two pins so it wasn't getting a solid connection.Now that is out of the way it didn't fix my low idle problem in warm/hot weather as I thought it would.Really thought that would fix it but.....