Exhaust Manifold flange warped??
#16
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I might have found a set local. He will check for me tomorrow when he gets home from work. If you have them, lay them aside and I will let you know. Vrank my manifold is a good one. Not off of Ebay. I will most certainly rewrap it once I have it checked and decked. Pictures up tomorrow. .
#17
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Gerry, alot of turbo manifold flanges are warped as well as the the flange for the turbo these issues are due to the enormous heat used when there being welded the flanges will and do contort when cooled it is always a good idea to have the flanges checked by a machinist for a flat and level surface and deck /or machine flat as necessary.
Last edited by Vrank; 05-26-13 at 05:59 AM.
#18
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Heat does crazy things, especially with weight hanging off the heated parts.
Whenever a China Manifold is being used i'll always advocate decking it at a machine shop.
Do not wrap the manifold unless its sch 10 304 ss primaries.
Thin stainless, and heat wrap, equals broken manifold.
Whenever a China Manifold is being used i'll always advocate decking it at a machine shop.
Do not wrap the manifold unless its sch 10 304 ss primaries.
Thin stainless, and heat wrap, equals broken manifold.
#19
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Made some progress today...
Here it is with the turbo and intercooler piping removed.. ready for surgery.
See the warpage... The reason why I had an exhaust leak.
Ended up removing the wastegate dump tubing, the thermostat housing, neck, and I also relocated the oil line from the rear to the front. I should have done this from the start. The flat surface where the manifold meets the head, were pretty straight. The flange was a different story. I will get the machine shop to check both sides, clean up the threads on the flange, pull out a broken stud on the wastegate that I broke, and order new gaskets. I am thinking while the car is down, is go ahead and remove the tranny and replace the rear main seal. I am tired of oil being under the car everyday.....
Here it is with the turbo and intercooler piping removed.. ready for surgery.
See the warpage... The reason why I had an exhaust leak.
Ended up removing the wastegate dump tubing, the thermostat housing, neck, and I also relocated the oil line from the rear to the front. I should have done this from the start. The flat surface where the manifold meets the head, were pretty straight. The flange was a different story. I will get the machine shop to check both sides, clean up the threads on the flange, pull out a broken stud on the wastegate that I broke, and order new gaskets. I am thinking while the car is down, is go ahead and remove the tranny and replace the rear main seal. I am tired of oil being under the car everyday.....
#21
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Ye sir. Will be dropping it off on Wednesday. I will have them fix it. That bolt on the wastegate was so darn tight. I should have heated it before I tried to loosen. One is real easy and the other was a pain. Oh well. It will be fixed. Now my hunt is for some metal oem gaskets. That one I used was given to me. It looks like around cylinder 1 and 6 there was a small leak if you look close. Everything else looked pretty good in my eyes. Unless I missed something.
#22
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To be honest, and I'm psyched there's no more "heat wrap", you can use a light layer of copper spray on the hot side -to- flange if it's straight. No gasket.
Since you are having a machine shop deck the surface, it's the best way to ensure your seal without introducing a floppy gasket. I've been doing it like this on every turbo setup I've had in the past 10 years.
YMMV!
Since you are having a machine shop deck the surface, it's the best way to ensure your seal without introducing a floppy gasket. I've been doing it like this on every turbo setup I've had in the past 10 years.
YMMV!
#23
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Dropped the manifold off today. I told them to deck both surfaces, remove the broken bolt on the wastegate flange, and rethread with Grade 8 bolts on the flange. I hope this will be ready tomorrow or the next day. I will post pictures of the results when I get them.
#25
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be very careful when wrapping exh manifolds . it will retain moisture and when heat cycled it can promote rusting and metal fatigue . problem is most ebay stuff are made out of 304 ss compared to the brand name stuff which are made out of 321 ss which is a thicker walled and higher heat tolerant metal..your warping is due to thinner walled metal used in your manifold . cant tell you how many of the ebay manifolds ive removed for people due to cracking and warpage issues , but wrapping them to retain more heat and moisture being trapped only compounds the issues,,
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Mark that's an ebay manifold so i am sure it was wrap when you first installed it.
ED the new DEI stuff works great if he get that stuff he won't have to worry about his manifold cracking.
gL
ED the new DEI stuff works great if he get that stuff he won't have to worry about his manifold cracking.
gL
#27
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That's a DM manifold. Thats where the guy bought it from before I bought it from him. Also it did have DEI manifold/exhaust wrap on it, if you all remember from my build thread. Same for the DP. I will call and check on it today and see if it is ready to pick up. The gaskets are on the way from Jay. He had a set he has mailed out to me as of yesterday. I will keep everyone updated. Thanks guys!!!
MARK
MARK
#28
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DM gets chinese parts.
"Good" Back-purged TIG welded manifolds are Schedule 10, 304 low carbon stainless steel. They are about a grand.
321 only has slightly better corrosion resistance compared to 304l, so you will only find 321 on sea going vessels and such.
There is no problem with a chinese manifold. Lots of people use them.
"Good" Back-purged TIG welded manifolds are Schedule 10, 304 low carbon stainless steel. They are about a grand.
321 only has slightly better corrosion resistance compared to 304l, so you will only find 321 on sea going vessels and such.
There is no problem with a chinese manifold. Lots of people use them.
#29
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I went by the shop today and they didnt have it ready. They had a stack of heads in the back. Mine is in line. I hope they can get it cleaned up and me not have to by another one. Only time will tell. I did remove the R154 today and replaced the rear main seal along with the bracket that holds it in place. I need a hand with man handling this heavy Soarer R154.. I hope this gets the oil leaked fixed. I also ordered a new back up light sensor and 4 quarts of Redline 75w90 gear oil!!