coil pack
05-08-13, 12:38 PM
#16
rattle is probably unrelated and most likely the serpentine (accessory) belt tensioner.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/mai...-ls-400-a.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-no-power.html
check the coil and let us know, I would be surprised if it was a timing component making the rattling.
also the guy in that second thread put one of the rotors on backwards, make sure you have it the right way.
The timing belt tensioners are oil pressured and do not just tighten up or loosen at random if they fail, IT would cause some problems but probably not a rattle as it is a belt after all not a chain.
you are due for a timing belt change but its common to go to 120 on a 1uz before doing it. some take it to 200k but I wouldn't recommend that on a motor you care about.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/mai...-ls-400-a.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-no-power.html
check the coil and let us know, I would be surprised if it was a timing component making the rattling.
also the guy in that second thread put one of the rotors on backwards, make sure you have it the right way.
The timing belt tensioners are oil pressured and do not just tighten up or loosen at random if they fail, IT would cause some problems but probably not a rattle as it is a belt after all not a chain.
you are due for a timing belt change but its common to go to 120 on a 1uz before doing it. some take it to 200k but I wouldn't recommend that on a motor you care about.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-08-13 at 12:41 PM.
05-08-13, 01:03 PM
#17
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rattle is probably unrelated and most likely the serpentine (accessory) belt tensioner.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/mai...-ls-400-a.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-no-power.html
check the coil and let us know, I would be surprised if it was a timing component making the rattling.
also the guy in that second thread put one of the rotors on backwards, make sure you have it the right way.
The timing belt tensioners are oil pressured and do not just tighten up or loosen at random if they fail, IT would cause some problems but probably not a rattle as it is a belt after all not a chain.
you are due for a timing belt change but its common to go to 120 on a 1uz before doing it. some take it to 200k but I wouldn't recommend that on a motor you care about.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/mai...-ls-400-a.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-no-power.html
check the coil and let us know, I would be surprised if it was a timing component making the rattling.
also the guy in that second thread put one of the rotors on backwards, make sure you have it the right way.
The timing belt tensioners are oil pressured and do not just tighten up or loosen at random if they fail, IT would cause some problems but probably not a rattle as it is a belt after all not a chain.
you are due for a timing belt change but its common to go to 120 on a 1uz before doing it. some take it to 200k but I wouldn't recommend that on a motor you care about.
also, the idling was exactly the same before and after I replaced what I assumed to be a "bad" rotor, ( it did not disintegrate in it's housing like my driver side did months ago...)
will be getting a ride to my house after work to check the coil packs real quick...
could REALLY pass on a 760 timing belt job right now. I still want it done, but a couple more months would be helpful... already dumped a lot of money into the car in the past 3 weeks, mostly because I needed new rotors, brake pads, and 1 new caliper, thanks guys.
edit: I blaze quite often, but pretty sure I put the rotor in the way it came out. Unless somehow I put it in upside down...... there is a "pointy part" to the rotor, is that to face UP, or DOWN?
I swear it, If I put it in upside down, ahhhh!!!!!!!
05-08-13, 01:43 PM
#18
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what if the bearing of the tensioner is so shot that it is falling apart, or "rattling" ... not disagreeing, just playing devils advocate... he said it could be an "internal tensioner bearing?"
also, the idling was exactly the same before and after I replaced what I assumed to be a "bad" rotor, ( it did not disintegrate in it's housing like my driver side did months ago...)
will be getting a ride to my house after work to check the coil packs real quick...
could REALLY pass on a 760 timing belt job right now. I still want it done, but a couple more months would be helpful... already dumped a lot of money into the car in the past 3 weeks, mostly because I needed new rotors, brake pads, and 1 new caliper, thanks guys.
edit: I blaze quite often, but pretty sure I put the rotor in the way it came out. Unless somehow I put it in upside down...... there is a "pointy part" to the rotor, is that to face UP, or DOWN?
I swear it, If I put it in upside down, ahhhh!!!!!!!
also, the idling was exactly the same before and after I replaced what I assumed to be a "bad" rotor, ( it did not disintegrate in it's housing like my driver side did months ago...)
will be getting a ride to my house after work to check the coil packs real quick...
could REALLY pass on a 760 timing belt job right now. I still want it done, but a couple more months would be helpful... already dumped a lot of money into the car in the past 3 weeks, mostly because I needed new rotors, brake pads, and 1 new caliper, thanks guys.
edit: I blaze quite often, but pretty sure I put the rotor in the way it came out. Unless somehow I put it in upside down...... there is a "pointy part" to the rotor, is that to face UP, or DOWN?
I swear it, If I put it in upside down, ahhhh!!!!!!!
somebody, please help a brother out.. .im starting to think I put the effing cap on with the pointy metal piece sticking up and it should be down!!
05-08-13, 01:55 PM
#19
what if the bearing of the tensioner is so shot that it is falling apart, or "rattling" ... not disagreeing, just playing devils advocate... he said it could be an "internal tensioner bearing?"
also, the idling was exactly the same before and after I replaced what I assumed to be a "bad" rotor, ( it did not disintegrate in it's housing like my driver side did months ago...)
will be getting a ride to my house after work to check the coil packs real quick...
could REALLY pass on a 760 timing belt job right now. I still want it done, but a couple more months would be helpful... already dumped a lot of money into the car in the past 3 weeks, mostly because I needed new rotors, brake pads, and 1 new caliper, thanks guys.
edit: I blaze quite often, but pretty sure I put the rotor in the way it came out. Unless somehow I put it in upside down...... there is a "pointy part" to the rotor, is that to face UP, or DOWN?
I swear it, If I put it in upside down, ahhhh!!!!!!!
also, the idling was exactly the same before and after I replaced what I assumed to be a "bad" rotor, ( it did not disintegrate in it's housing like my driver side did months ago...)
will be getting a ride to my house after work to check the coil packs real quick...
could REALLY pass on a 760 timing belt job right now. I still want it done, but a couple more months would be helpful... already dumped a lot of money into the car in the past 3 weeks, mostly because I needed new rotors, brake pads, and 1 new caliper, thanks guys.
edit: I blaze quite often, but pretty sure I put the rotor in the way it came out. Unless somehow I put it in upside down...... there is a "pointy part" to the rotor, is that to face UP, or DOWN?
I swear it, If I put it in upside down, ahhhh!!!!!!!
The tensioner on the timing belt is an oil pressure driven piston, its either in or out, it does not cause any rattling. what your mechanic is thinking of is the timing belt roller bearings, but these don't really go bad or rattle.
What does have a bearing in the middle is the accessory belt tensioner right up front in the pictures in those threads I linked, and it always has a great deal of tension on it which is why the bearings go bad. I have replaced several of these before eventually they all start to rattle. spray some wd40 on the center part of that pulley around where the bolt is in the edges (not on the belt or the outside grooves of the pulley) and if the sound changes you will know thats whats rattling.
until you do the coil test you aren't going to be able to narrow it down.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-08-13 at 01:58 PM.
05-08-13, 02:38 PM
#21
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I won't be able to check if I put the rotor on correctly or not until tomorrow mornin, if anybody has of an idea about which direction is , please let me know.. Might help my sleep better. Lol. fml
05-09-13, 07:09 AM
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does that rule out timing? I didn't get a chance to see if I put the rotor upside down cause I gotta get back to work right now. I'm thinking my passenger side rotor got dusted and i dI'd a half *** job installing the new one. Y
05-09-13, 08:13 AM
#24
well since there was no change its either the rotor is backwards, the coil is bad, the 1 wire from the coil to the rotor is fubar'd, or the 4 coil wires from the distributor cap to the engine are bad.
Its probably the coil, if not that second guess would be backwards rotor.
Its probably the coil, if not that second guess would be backwards rotor.
05-09-13, 08:40 AM
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well since there was no change its either the rotor is backwards, the coil is bad, the 1 wire from the coil to the rotor is fubar'd, or the 4 coil wires from the distributor cap to the engine are bad.
Its probably the coil, if not that second guess would be backwards rotor.
Its probably the coil, if not that second guess would be backwards rotor.
I have been searching for a pic and this is the best I can see. This is an LS, but same deal... I believe this is the left hand sides of the motor ( I see the intake manifold and inlet) ..
http://www.lexls.com/images/ignition/DSCF0286.jpg
See on the rotor, there is a small brass colored metal piece, sticking down to the left? I think mine is sticking UP, and to the right ( or left)... definitely UP.
What do ya think? That'll cause those cylinders to run dead no?
05-11-13, 03:11 PM
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No luck, had rotor upside down, still not fixed...
where are the crank sensors? Are there more than one? my mechanic and I are trying to work this out, I appreciate all your help..
are there any sensors or wires underneath a coil pack? Because I thought something smoking from that region. And its not the coil pack up already replaced it.
where are the crank sensors? Are there more than one? my mechanic and I are trying to work this out, I appreciate all your help..
are there any sensors or wires underneath a coil pack? Because I thought something smoking from that region. And its not the coil pack up already replaced it.
05-12-13, 08:15 AM
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what could have melted to make that one side go dead? there is definitely a burning plastic or something by the coil pack on that side when this first happened. maybe a wire or sensor was brushing up against the serpentine belt? ... it will still have no change in idle when you take off a passenger side coil pack. so what is leading to the coil pack that would cause this?
05-12-13, 05:10 PM
#30
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New plugs, wires, coil packs good, alternator less than a year. No vacuum leaks, runs just the same wuth passenger side coil out as it does in. besides these things, what could make only driver side of motor