Fair price for custom FMIC piping and install
03-21-13, 08:24 PM
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Fair price for custom FMIC piping and install
Okay so I went to a local tuning shop today that supposedly has a pretty good reputation street racing crowd in my area and explained to him my current build and asked for a quote on i/c piping. I have a 1992 SC300 with a fresh 1jzgte swap. All I need to complete my build is to have my intercooler mounted and get it piped up to the 1jz. I already have my intercooler purchased.
The guy said that a low estimate without seeing the car but having done similar jobs in the past would be around 300-350 for mild steel piping and he said aluminum or stainless would be significantly higher but possible if I wanted to go that route...??? He said that it included rolled edges on all the pipes and tig welds and that couplers and clamps were included in the quote too but he then also quickly added that t-clamps would be extra...So I am guessing the clamps that are included are just plain hose clamps???
Does this see like a fair price??? It seems awfully high too me..especially since he is talking about using "mild steel" whatever that is anyways...I mean of course I would want aluminum if not stainless if I was gonna have a shop do it...But for gosh sakes I already have the intercooler...Driftmotion has there universal ALUMINUM piping kits with couples AND T clamps for 170...
Should I just go to a custom exhaust shop for a better quote?
Anyone on here that can let me know what they have paid to have this done or what you feel a fair price would be?
Or even better yet anyone know of a shop in the Tacoma Seattle area I could go too to have this done?
I really wanna get this done but I don't want to be taken advantage of for not knowing what stiff like this should cost...
If I can help by providing any more info at all just say so... Thanks for your help guys/gals!
The guy said that a low estimate without seeing the car but having done similar jobs in the past would be around 300-350 for mild steel piping and he said aluminum or stainless would be significantly higher but possible if I wanted to go that route...??? He said that it included rolled edges on all the pipes and tig welds and that couplers and clamps were included in the quote too but he then also quickly added that t-clamps would be extra...So I am guessing the clamps that are included are just plain hose clamps???
Does this see like a fair price??? It seems awfully high too me..especially since he is talking about using "mild steel" whatever that is anyways...I mean of course I would want aluminum if not stainless if I was gonna have a shop do it...But for gosh sakes I already have the intercooler...Driftmotion has there universal ALUMINUM piping kits with couples AND T clamps for 170...
Should I just go to a custom exhaust shop for a better quote?
Anyone on here that can let me know what they have paid to have this done or what you feel a fair price would be?
Or even better yet anyone know of a shop in the Tacoma Seattle area I could go too to have this done?
I really wanna get this done but I don't want to be taken advantage of for not knowing what stiff like this should cost...
If I can help by providing any more info at all just say so... Thanks for your help guys/gals!
Last edited by SupraDremr; 03-21-13 at 08:32 PM.
03-22-13, 06:26 PM
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There are a few kits but none that specifally say they are for a sc300 w/ a 1jz non vvti....Really hoping to find a shop locally that either has the parts so I can complete it myself or a shop that can do me a custom pipe job and get my intercooler mounted up for me. The kits are between 400-550 on ebay with intercooler and the ones closeer to the 550 range claim to be direct bolt on for the 1jz vvti version...I have a non vvti 1jz motor...Not sure how much different they are but ya...I can can get universal aluminum piping kits where I have to cut and fit myself and they have the t clamps and couplers included for about 100 dollars...Being as I already have the intercooler and just need it installed and piping made and routed I just wanted to hear what you guys thought was a fair price to have that done...I guess 350 just seemed a little steep for 2.5 inch mild steel piping and a intercooler install...y guess would have been around that fpor maybe a stainless pipe setup...I was thinking probably 250 for aluminum and wouldnt want to pay anything for mild steel...never heard of anyone using that...wonder why that is...lol
If I cant get a better quote for what I want I will have to just suck it up and order a universal pipe kit off ebay and cut and fit it myself...I will have to try a few exhaust and other tuning shops maybe monday and if no luck then I will just order pipe.
If I cant get a better quote for what I want I will have to just suck it up and order a universal pipe kit off ebay and cut and fit it myself...I will have to try a few exhaust and other tuning shops maybe monday and if no luck then I will just order pipe.
Last edited by SupraDremr; 03-22-13 at 06:34 PM.
03-22-13, 07:19 PM
#5
350 is a good price for quality work. the fact that he said aluminum would be significantly higher is retarded though. CXracing has universal kits for like 100 that would be perfect. Their tubing is pretty decent, it's thick walled and welds nice. you should get a quote from him with him supplying everything and with them only supplying the labor.
If you're serious about it, tell them you'll even pull the bumper. The less labor, the cheaper, ya know? Mounting the intercooler is retarded simple. The part that complicates things is the absolute BS of an excuse for the P/S return that has the hard line all coiled up on the driver side. A little bending of it can be done, or make a bracket and move it out of the way, or even just get rid of it and run a short hose to bypass that part (gates -6 pushlock).
Cutting and fitting it yourself is cheapest. But if you can't weld, you'll have a lot of couplers which is gay. T bolt clamps can also be gay, where as a quality hose clamp can be just fine and save space. I routinely see them hold 30-40psi. repeatedly. But you also gotta understand that cutting and fitting it yourself, if not experienced with the right tools, can be a nightmare. A sawzall and vice or chopsaw will do. A bench grinder with a wire wheel will help clean the cuts. good luck.
If you're serious about it, tell them you'll even pull the bumper. The less labor, the cheaper, ya know? Mounting the intercooler is retarded simple. The part that complicates things is the absolute BS of an excuse for the P/S return that has the hard line all coiled up on the driver side. A little bending of it can be done, or make a bracket and move it out of the way, or even just get rid of it and run a short hose to bypass that part (gates -6 pushlock).
Cutting and fitting it yourself is cheapest. But if you can't weld, you'll have a lot of couplers which is gay. T bolt clamps can also be gay, where as a quality hose clamp can be just fine and save space. I routinely see them hold 30-40psi. repeatedly. But you also gotta understand that cutting and fitting it yourself, if not experienced with the right tools, can be a nightmare. A sawzall and vice or chopsaw will do. A bench grinder with a wire wheel will help clean the cuts. good luck.
03-22-13, 07:45 PM
#6
I've heard of shops charging up to $700 for custom intercooler piping. The reason aluminum and stainless cost more is because they require TIG welding, which takes a longer time and cost more for materials. What I've found out recently is shops are charging $100 an hour for welding then labor to install the piping etc... It get expensive. I've done many sets of intercooler pipes some that I welded the aluminum piping myself and some where I just cut them and had a few extra couplers.
What I would suggest is to get a universal piping set with 45s, 75s and 90s only. You don't really need straight pipe. Then buy a cutoff wheel from lowes for $30 and cut the pipe to what you need. Cut a small notch on the end pipe and bend it back flat. This will ensure the coupler doesn't blow off. I've run 30+ lbs of boost and never had a problem with blowing couplers. You will need a 2.25" and 2.75" reducer coupler, for the turbo outlet and throttle body, to whatever size pipe you use for the 1JZ, I had to wait on the stupid sized couplers when I made mine recently. Tip for using the cutoff wheel, wrap a piece of tape around the pipe to keep the cut perfectly straight.
Angle grinder. AKA cutoff wheel, best tool you'll ever buy.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_296496-353-9...der&facetInfo=
I cut a hole in the passenger side intake stock area, which made the routing easy.
What I would suggest is to get a universal piping set with 45s, 75s and 90s only. You don't really need straight pipe. Then buy a cutoff wheel from lowes for $30 and cut the pipe to what you need. Cut a small notch on the end pipe and bend it back flat. This will ensure the coupler doesn't blow off. I've run 30+ lbs of boost and never had a problem with blowing couplers. You will need a 2.25" and 2.75" reducer coupler, for the turbo outlet and throttle body, to whatever size pipe you use for the 1JZ, I had to wait on the stupid sized couplers when I made mine recently. Tip for using the cutoff wheel, wrap a piece of tape around the pipe to keep the cut perfectly straight.
Angle grinder. AKA cutoff wheel, best tool you'll ever buy.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_296496-353-9...der&facetInfo=
I cut a hole in the passenger side intake stock area, which made the routing easy.
03-22-13, 10:18 PM
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350 is a good price for quality work. the fact that he said aluminum would be significantly higher is retarded though. CXracing has universal kits for like 100 that would be perfect. Their tubing is pretty decent, it's thick walled and welds nice. you should get a quote from him with him supplying everything and with them only supplying the labor.
If you're serious about it, tell them you'll even pull the bumper. The less labor, the cheaper, ya know? Mounting the intercooler is retarded simple. The part that complicates things is the absolute BS of an excuse for the P/S return that has the hard line all coiled up on the driver side. A little bending of it can be done, or make a bracket and move it out of the way, or even just get rid of it and run a short hose to bypass that part (gates -6 pushlock).
Cutting and fitting it yourself is cheapest. But if you can't weld, you'll have a lot of couplers which is gay. T bolt clamps can also be gay, where as a quality hose clamp can be just fine and save space. I routinely see them hold 30-40psi. repeatedly. But you also gotta understand that cutting and fitting it yourself, if not experienced with the right tools, can be a nightmare. A sawzall and vice or chopsaw will do. A bench grinder with a wire wheel will help clean the cuts. good luck.
If you're serious about it, tell them you'll even pull the bumper. The less labor, the cheaper, ya know? Mounting the intercooler is retarded simple. The part that complicates things is the absolute BS of an excuse for the P/S return that has the hard line all coiled up on the driver side. A little bending of it can be done, or make a bracket and move it out of the way, or even just get rid of it and run a short hose to bypass that part (gates -6 pushlock).
Cutting and fitting it yourself is cheapest. But if you can't weld, you'll have a lot of couplers which is gay. T bolt clamps can also be gay, where as a quality hose clamp can be just fine and save space. I routinely see them hold 30-40psi. repeatedly. But you also gotta understand that cutting and fitting it yourself, if not experienced with the right tools, can be a nightmare. A sawzall and vice or chopsaw will do. A bench grinder with a wire wheel will help clean the cuts. good luck.
I've heard of shops charging up to $700 for custom intercooler piping. The reason aluminum and stainless cost more is because they require TIG welding, which takes a longer time and cost more for materials. What I've found out recently is shops are charging $100 an hour for welding then labor to install the piping etc... It get expensive. I've done many sets of intercooler pipes some that I welded the aluminum piping myself and some where I just cut them and had a few extra couplers.
What I would suggest is to get a universal piping set with 45s, 75s and 90s only. You don't really need straight pipe. Then buy a cutoff wheel from lowes for $30 and cut the pipe to what you need. Cut a small notch on the end pipe and bend it back flat. This will ensure the coupler doesn't blow off. I've run 30+ lbs of boost and never had a problem with blowing couplers. You will need a 2.25" and 2.75" reducer coupler, for the turbo outlet and throttle body, to whatever size pipe you use for the 1JZ, I had to wait on the stupid sized couplers when I made mine recently. Tip for using the cutoff wheel, wrap a piece of tape around the pipe to keep the cut perfectly straight.
Angle grinder. AKA cutoff wheel, best tool you'll ever buy.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_296496-353-9...der&facetInfo=
I cut a hole in the passenger side intake stock area, which made the routing easy.
What I would suggest is to get a universal piping set with 45s, 75s and 90s only. You don't really need straight pipe. Then buy a cutoff wheel from lowes for $30 and cut the pipe to what you need. Cut a small notch on the end pipe and bend it back flat. This will ensure the coupler doesn't blow off. I've run 30+ lbs of boost and never had a problem with blowing couplers. You will need a 2.25" and 2.75" reducer coupler, for the turbo outlet and throttle body, to whatever size pipe you use for the 1JZ, I had to wait on the stupid sized couplers when I made mine recently. Tip for using the cutoff wheel, wrap a piece of tape around the pipe to keep the cut perfectly straight.
Angle grinder. AKA cutoff wheel, best tool you'll ever buy.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_296496-353-9...der&facetInfo=
I cut a hole in the passenger side intake stock area, which made the routing easy.
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