Bleak

iTrader: (1)

... what?

Bleak

iTrader: (1)

Guys how do I tell if the pilot bearing is alright? Is it supposed to sit flush, or sit slightly (a few mm's) away from the engine. We're gonna try the following in this order:

Install a new Slave cylinder.
If that doesnt work,
Install a new clutch line.
If that doesnt work,
We're dropping the tranny and slapping on my original Pressure plate I had in my 2jz. We're thinking maybe the Spec pressure plate is bad?

Bleak

iTrader: (1)

Guys any additional feedback would be greatly appreciated.
I JUST finished putting in the brand new slave cylinder, and bled the crap out of it using almost a whole bottle of dot 3 fluid. Still nothing!

The tranny shifts through the gears perfectly when the car is off. When I turn it on, it doesn't go into any gears. We'll be dropping the tranny on Thanksgiving, so is there anything we should particularly keep an eye on?


Here are some pics from the first install:

2jpowa

iTrader: (3)

No pic of the tob installed ?

Bleak

iTrader: (1)

**UPDATE:

We dropped the tranny today. We are officially STUMPED and out of ideas. Really need insight on this issue. The clutch is still not engaging.

We removed everything up to the flywheel and reinstalled it after inspecting all the parts.
-New Slave cylinder was installed
-First, we removed and reinstalled the pilot bearing making sure it sit flush with the motor.
-Then, we fixed the shift fork/throw out bearing because it was getting stuck and wouldn't extend as much as it should. We even went as far as adding an "extension" between the slave and the fork and NOTHING. The clutch still doesn't engage at ALL!
-We checked the pressure plate, all the spindles/teeth were perfect. We were gonna swap the pressure plate to the stock but after inspecting it and seeing that it was perfectly fine we decided to keep it in there.
-The clutch was installed correctly and aligned, flat side facing the flywheel, springs facing the tranny.
-Everything was lubricated properly before putting it back in, and torqued to spec.

.... after all this, we are CLUELESS as to what to do next. Getting a new master cylinder would be POINTLESS because it's obviously working. We are able to bleed the slave fine, it is moving the hydraulic fluid just fine. Something isn't catching in the tranny, which is what's weird. I've had 6 puck clutches in cars before and you don't feel a clutch engage at all. The pedal is not soft, it's at or close to OEM stiffness but isn't engaging the clutch...

Any ideas guys...? We are planning on getting a different flywheel and pressure plate to swap in there but it's more out of desperation than logic.

xspsi6

iTrader: (31)

I had issues with spec in the past with my audi s6 and upon further research it turns out that many people were very un happy with them so I would almost bet it's your pressure plate as that was the issue with my car. You really should have put the stock pp back in just for trouble shooting as this would have told you right off the bat.

Bleak

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking the exact same thing.. So at this point, the main symptom is:
"Transmission will go into all gears when car is off, but not when car is on" is the main thing.

Reading this:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ts-04.htm

Says that those symptoms can only be related to a bad Pressure plate or Clutch. But after checking them out, I didn't notice anything wrong with them(springs were inside the clutch, and pressure plate didn't seem to have any cracks/uneven teeth) and if they weren't the right ones for my car I wouldn't think they'd bolt up at all wouldn't they?

I ordered the clutch for a sc300/gs300 5speed off MVPMotorsports. Would of the N/A Supra version been any different?

You can imagine the frustration, we've dropped the tranny twice now(not including the time needed for the swap), and I've been carless for a month now.

Here are some recent pics:

xspsi6

iTrader: (31)

Yea the pressure plate is dragging most likely due to poor quality parts used as almost all clutch companies use oem based components then they mod them such as adding clamping force by putting more or thicket bands on the pp and they usually just make their own ceramic/metallic friction surfaces on the disk.

This sucks for you but I have been there with my Audi pulling the awd trans 3 times in 1 day So I feel your pain which was all from a bogus junk Spec clutch which was by far the worst clutch I have ever owned.

I really think all it can be is the pp.

Also did you tighten down the pp bolts in the proper sequence?

Bleak

iTrader: (1)

Yes, cross tightened.

I guess we'll try slapping on the OEM pressure plate and that's that.

xspsi6

iTrader: (31)

Well let us know how it goes.

Supra Dr

iTrader: (14)

Sorry, late to the party.
Unfortunately it sounds like the pressure plate is not releasing. The leaking slave cylinder
was bad regardless.
Sounds like there is too much freeplay between the release bearing & the pressure plate
or as stated a bad pressure plate.

Was there a shim between the crank & the flywheel on the original 2JZ? Saw the 1JZ was
an original auto. (Generally there is a shim on the back of the crank)

If you had to press on the new release bearing onto the original collar, was it installed @
the same height as the original? Was the replacement bearing the same thickness as
the original?

Was the flywheel resurfaced? If so how much? If the machine shop cut the hell out of it
they should have provided or told you to shim it. A real shop would have provided a spec
of the amount of material that was removed.

Last w/ the trans back in. How much lever movement is required to contact the pressure plate?
If you pull the boot off you should be able to see in there. Then w/ a pry bar you should be able
to collapse the pressure plate. If it won't collapse the pressure plate is bad. If the lever
movement is greater than the slave cylinder extended distance the you have a shim issue.

Good luck, a real the PIA problem.

Catracho30

iTrader: (2)

-using old flywheel not resurfaced
- i removed the shim you were talking about since we are using a manual trans
- very little lever movement is requiered before throwout bearing contacts pp

Supra Dr

iTrader: (14)

There should have been a shim on the original 2J/ 5 speed set up that needs to be swapped over.

Catracho30

iTrader: (2)

the shim was on the 1jz since it was auto. there was no shim on the 2j/w58 when i removed the trans from it

Bleak

iTrader: (1)

So is there a shim missing Dr? My friend said he saw on the forums that the shim is only needed for automatics. Once you go 5 speed it isn't necessary. If that isn't the case, would the 1jz shim do the job or it's specific to the tranny not the motor?