anyone have sc400 turn off randomly on turn? (going slow)
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anyone have sc400 turn off randomly on turn? (going slow)
i was driving yesterday and i made a turn going pretty slow and my car turned off. then today it happen again in the same situation going slow and making a turn. i was wondering if anyone else here has had this problem. so far only happened twice very randomly. but curious what it may be. maybe someone else here has experienced the same problem and maybe has had it fixed and know what it is. hopefully my car does not continue to do this. any input , thanks.
yesterday it happend again this time i was not turning i was coming to a complete stop at a light nd it turned off again. this time when starting it it didnt stay on. i had to start it rev to high rpms then throw it in drive just to get in a parking lot like 15 feet away before it turned off again when i went into parking lot. shut it off 5 minutes then started it and let it sit then i drove home 4 miles and it didnt have a problem. i had this same exact problem 4 months ago and the mechanic i had to take it back to him 3 times to fix it. he said each time the reader said it was bad ecu. so he replaced ecu each time and the 3 time he also replaced an air flow sensor or something. the car would last a week before i had to take it back to him each time except the last time it last many months 4 til now.
yesterday it happend again this time i was not turning i was coming to a complete stop at a light nd it turned off again. this time when starting it it didnt stay on. i had to start it rev to high rpms then throw it in drive just to get in a parking lot like 15 feet away before it turned off again when i went into parking lot. shut it off 5 minutes then started it and let it sit then i drove home 4 miles and it didnt have a problem. i had this same exact problem 4 months ago and the mechanic i had to take it back to him 3 times to fix it. he said each time the reader said it was bad ecu. so he replaced ecu each time and the 3 time he also replaced an air flow sensor or something. the car would last a week before i had to take it back to him each time except the last time it last many months 4 til now.
Last edited by ScDoinIt; 05-09-12 at 08:22 PM.
#2
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This might be applicable to your car;
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...rol-valve.html
Might as well do these since they're pretty much "free" fixes;
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...on-issues.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...rol-valve.html
Might as well do these since they're pretty much "free" fixes;
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...on-issues.html
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i do not think so but when i leave today i am going to check if it does or doesnt.
UPDATE: WHEN AT A STOP AND I TURN THE WHEEL IS JUST SLIGHTY LIKE BARLEY BARLEY GOES DOWN A LITTLE LIKE I CANT REALLY TELL UNTIL I LET THE STEERING WHEEL GO BACK TO NORMAL IS MOVES JUST SLIGHTY BACK UP.
hmm i would have no idea personally. thanks for mentioning it so other people can reflect their thoughts on whether that is the problem.
i not sure today when leave i going to take notice and write it down.
UPDATE: I CHECKED THE IDLE WHEN WARMED UP AND THE IDLE SITS AT THE SECOND LINE. LIKE THEIR THE 0 AND BIG LINE AT 0RPM THEN THEIR ARE THE SMALLER LINES ABOVE IT BETWEEN THE 0 AND 1RPMS. AND IT SITS ON THE SECOND LITTLE LINE ABOVE THE 0. IS THIS NORMAL IDLE????
everyone thank you so much for helping because i had this same problem 4 months back and the mechanic kept messing up when fixing it it had same problem i took it back 3 times each time car only lasted about a week before i had to take it back. after one week would have same problem and he kept saying the computer was reading bad ecu. the car got to a point when i would start it then it would shut back off so i would have to rev to high rpms then throw it in drive and take off but that would only go enough distance to pull to side of road or into a parking lot then shut off. the other day it did it again and i had to rev and do that i went into parking lot shut it off 5 minutes then started it and let it sit then i drove home 4 miles and it didnt have a problem. but oh i need to mention this time i wasnt even turning i was driving and when i came to a stop at the stop light is when it went out and turned off. really sucky.
UPDATE: WHEN AT A STOP AND I TURN THE WHEEL IS JUST SLIGHTY LIKE BARLEY BARLEY GOES DOWN A LITTLE LIKE I CANT REALLY TELL UNTIL I LET THE STEERING WHEEL GO BACK TO NORMAL IS MOVES JUST SLIGHTY BACK UP.
UPDATE: I CHECKED THE IDLE WHEN WARMED UP AND THE IDLE SITS AT THE SECOND LINE. LIKE THEIR THE 0 AND BIG LINE AT 0RPM THEN THEIR ARE THE SMALLER LINES ABOVE IT BETWEEN THE 0 AND 1RPMS. AND IT SITS ON THE SECOND LITTLE LINE ABOVE THE 0. IS THIS NORMAL IDLE????
everyone thank you so much for helping because i had this same problem 4 months back and the mechanic kept messing up when fixing it it had same problem i took it back 3 times each time car only lasted about a week before i had to take it back. after one week would have same problem and he kept saying the computer was reading bad ecu. the car got to a point when i would start it then it would shut back off so i would have to rev to high rpms then throw it in drive and take off but that would only go enough distance to pull to side of road or into a parking lot then shut off. the other day it did it again and i had to rev and do that i went into parking lot shut it off 5 minutes then started it and let it sit then i drove home 4 miles and it didnt have a problem. but oh i need to mention this time i wasnt even turning i was driving and when i came to a stop at the stop light is when it went out and turned off. really sucky.
Last edited by ScDoinIt; 05-09-12 at 04:34 PM.
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This might be applicable to your car;
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...rol-valve.html
Might as well do these since they're pretty much "free" fixes;
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...on-issues.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...rol-valve.html
Might as well do these since they're pretty much "free" fixes;
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...on-issues.html
i really think this might be it. because he talks about how it will be pointing the finger at a bad ecu but really the ecu is not the culprit. hmm maybe i should just have someone run thru all these steps and i think it will be fixed.
he also talks about the whole idle thing so i going to look out for that today to see how the idle is acting.
what does anyone else here think i think the situation with his car and mine sound familiar.
thanks philip these are gr8 links. thanks for helping on the other subject too man really appreciate it!!!
TODAY WHEN DRIVING THE CAR FELT SLUGGISH AND THE STEERING WHEEL FELT KINDA WEIRD AT TIMES OR MAYBE I JUST TRIPPEN BECAUSE I THINKING THE CAR GOING TO SHUT OFF THE ENTIRE TIME BUT I REALLY THINK IT FELT SLUGGISH AND STEERING WHEEL WAS FEELING WEIRD.
Last edited by ScDoinIt; 05-09-12 at 04:36 PM.
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#8
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your idle should not be that low, its about half of what it should be, which makes me think you have an iacv issue, or more likely one of the very common 1uz ignition issues which are usually a failed coilpack or ignitor or worn rotor that causes 1-4 of your cylinders to not fire correctly. The 1uz will still run but will idle very low if its an ignition related issue.
If its the IACV it would have similar symptoms but its cause you are choking the motor of air to keep a proper idle.
If you push the throttle down 50-100% and it still feels really sluggish (like a 4 cylinder instead of an 8), its not an iacv issue cause there is enough air now, so check the ignition. if it feels normal when giving it lots of throttle then check the iacv and tps.
is your check engine light on?
If its the IACV it would have similar symptoms but its cause you are choking the motor of air to keep a proper idle.
If you push the throttle down 50-100% and it still feels really sluggish (like a 4 cylinder instead of an 8), its not an iacv issue cause there is enough air now, so check the ignition. if it feels normal when giving it lots of throttle then check the iacv and tps.
is your check engine light on?
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-09-12 at 10:37 PM.
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your idle should not be that low, its about half of what it should be, which makes me think you have an iacv issue, or more likely one of the very common 1uz ignition issues which are usually a failed coilpack or ignitor or worn rotor that causes 1-4 of your cylinders to not fire correctly. The 1uz will still run but will idle very low if its an ignition related issue.
If its the IACV it would have similar symptoms but its cause you are choking the motor of air to keep a proper idle.
If you push the throttle down 50-100% and it still feels really sluggish (like a 4 cylinder instead of an 8), its not an iacv issue cause there is enough air now, so check the ignition. if it feels normal when giving it lots of throttle then check the iacv and tps.
is your check engine light on?
If its the IACV it would have similar symptoms but its cause you are choking the motor of air to keep a proper idle.
If you push the throttle down 50-100% and it still feels really sluggish (like a 4 cylinder instead of an 8), its not an iacv issue cause there is enough air now, so check the ignition. if it feels normal when giving it lots of throttle then check the iacv and tps.
is your check engine light on?
No my check engine light is not on. Also when i push the throttle down 50 to 100% it is normal theirs no sluggish feeling. atleast right now when i left i checked to make sure and everytime i pushed the throttle all the way it re acts like it should like race mode. and half way yeah its moving like it should( but yesterday it was not acting like this it was very when throttle down maybe because very hot day and ac on idk). excuse my lack of knowledge on this please but to get the iacv and tps checked out should i just have my mechanic follow all those steps in the two links philip posted ? what do u suggest i do and what should i show my mechanic because i do not know how to check any of this myself and rather have someone else do this. so what do u suggest i do?? thanks so much.
well both the left and right sides are warm. so i think the alternator is working.
Last edited by ScDoinIt; 05-10-12 at 06:13 PM.
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Also would i have to replace the iacv and tps completely like get those brand new? or would their be another way of just cleaning it or something ( i think that post the guy said he just cleaned it or something) ? today it did not turn off. atleast got a day break but not trying to drive it that much because of situation.
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No they were not, they were higher when i put the ac on though. and actually UPDATE I DROVE LAST NIGHT TO GRAB A QUICK BITE TO EAT AND OF COURSE WHAT HAPPENS ON THE WAY HOME IT TURNED OFF WHEN ON A TURN I HAD TO SLOW DOWN ALOT AND ON THE TURN IT SHUT OFF ONCE MORE! IT WOULDN'T STAY ON WHEN I TRIED STARTING IT. SO I PUT IT IN NEUTRAL AND STARTED IT AND REVVED THE RPMS THEN THROW IT IN GEAR AND TOOK OFF AND MADE IT HOME BECAUSE THEY WERE NO STOPS IN BETWEEN BUT RIGHT WHEN I HAD TO SLOW DOWN ALMOST COMPLETELY ON THE TURN INTO MY ALLEY BEHIND MY HOME WHEN I WAS GIVING IT NO GAS AND RPS WERE LOW IT TURNED OFF AGAIN. SO I JUST REPEATED THE REVVING OF THE RPMS AND THROWING INTO DRIVE.
so try cleaning it or just replacing it will fix this problem? do you know wheres a good place to look for a good used replacement?
#14
My iacv went bad and the first couple times I would come off the highway off the exit ramp to a stop light and would start braking and the the engine would stall out. I believe after you turn off the car you should hear a click from the iacv if my memory is correct. My iacv was stuck closed.
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My iacv went bad and the first couple times I would come off the highway off the exit ramp to a stop light and would start braking and the the engine would stall out. I believe after you turn off the car you should hear a click from the iacv if my memory is correct. My iacv was stuck closed.
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