best street single set-up.....
#1
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best street single set-up.....
hey guys i did a search and couldnt really find any straight forward answers so i just wanted to get some opinions on what single setups people are running on there1jz....im trying to find a nice streetable turbo for my daily that will make close to 500hp on pump.from what ive been reading im kinda leaning towarded the precision 6266,bb upgrade, .82 ar,but im not sure if this is gonna be too much turbo.i dont want some big lagy turbo.heres the list of supporting mods i have on my car .
stock internal 1jz non vvti
880cc injectors
supra fp
3in dp
fmic
full 3in exhaust
safc 2
i plan on using the quicksilver manifold with a tial 44mm gate
if there is any other thing you guys would recommend i upgrade to...,like dual pumps or a better headgasket and arp studs if needed lmk....thanks guys
stock internal 1jz non vvti
880cc injectors
supra fp
3in dp
fmic
full 3in exhaust
safc 2
i plan on using the quicksilver manifold with a tial 44mm gate
if there is any other thing you guys would recommend i upgrade to...,like dual pumps or a better headgasket and arp studs if needed lmk....thanks guys
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trying to stay away from the standalone.ive ran aem and haltech on cars ive built before and it really takes away from reliability and the daily driving part. think those power levels are possible with a smaller injector....like a 680cc...adjusting fuel with the safc....
#4
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The BEST street single? Stock twins
I have a 60-1 from DM. It works. It would hit your power goal. It's not "laggy" by anyones definition, but it's not as telepathic as stock twins. I almost wish I rebuilt mine with steel wheels and kept them. With some porting I think you could sneak just barely into the 500's.
S362 is another consideration
GT35 is a classic
Maybe a GTX3076R will bring you there?
The 6266 you mentioned is great as well.
550cc injectors + SAFC is already pushing it but very much doable with an FPR
I have a 60-1 from DM. It works. It would hit your power goal. It's not "laggy" by anyones definition, but it's not as telepathic as stock twins. I almost wish I rebuilt mine with steel wheels and kept them. With some porting I think you could sneak just barely into the 500's.
S362 is another consideration
GT35 is a classic
Maybe a GTX3076R will bring you there?
The 6266 you mentioned is great as well.
550cc injectors + SAFC is already pushing it but very much doable with an FPR
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yeah i was going the upgraded stock twins route but by the time i spent the $ on getting them where i could get good power with them i might as well go with the simplicity of single.i was looking at the dm 60-1 kit cuz its cheap but im worried about cracking manifold and the longivity of the turbo.how long have you been running the dm kit and have you had any problems with it? ive also been looking into the gt3582r as a choice cuz ive had problems with precision turbos in the past.im just looking for a good reliable daily kit cuz even though i have 2 more vehicles i drive my sc alot....
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I have a whopping 2 weeks on it so far Can't comment on how long the kit lasts. I tried killing my stock twins and finally gave up after staring at the new turbo sitting in the corner of the kitchen long enough. Allegedly, the rods that are welded on the flanges takes the weight of the turbo off the runners so that should make them more reliable than the typical ebay manifold. Since the DM turbos use real Garrett center guts they SHOULD be just as reliable as something like GT3582R.
Worst case, buy the kit without the turbo and pick a turbo of your choice. The rest of the kit is VERY complete (I STILL have bolts and hardware he sent that I couldn't find a use for). He even includes shorter studs to make the manifold to bolt clearance better.
Worst case, buy the kit without the turbo and pick a turbo of your choice. The rest of the kit is VERY complete (I STILL have bolts and hardware he sent that I couldn't find a use for). He even includes shorter studs to make the manifold to bolt clearance better.
#7
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I like what Im running.
Is your car manual or automatic?
Why 500HP? Mine makes 350 at the real wheels and is plenty fast right now and completely able to get me in lots of trouble. Mine is a 2jz but nevertheless.
If you dumb down you HP levels a bit you can get by with very few things done to your car.
Read this and then think about what you wanna do.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...the-works.html
Is your car manual or automatic?
Why 500HP? Mine makes 350 at the real wheels and is plenty fast right now and completely able to get me in lots of trouble. Mine is a 2jz but nevertheless.
If you dumb down you HP levels a bit you can get by with very few things done to your car.
Read this and then think about what you wanna do.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...the-works.html
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I highly recommend going with a standalone for what your trying to accomplish. I'm not sure why you think a standalone will take away from daily driving reliability. If done right, and by that I mean properly installed and TUNED, you should have no problems with daily driving. I would be more concerned daily driving the car on a S-AFC. I think there was another thread similar to this one where we talked about some of the problems that will possibly occur with the s-afc. The older haltech e6-k's were a little problematic at times if you weren't super familiar with the interface, but with a lot of the new stand-a-lone's, things have become a lot more user friendly.
#9
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The SAFC's work. That's the highest praise I can give mine. It's not pretty. It's definitely not seamless.
The OEM ECU will fight against you every minute of the day that you have an SAFC. Best bet with tuning those is to just forget about the closed loop and let the ECU handle it on its own. Only tune ~70% or higher and don't exceed +25% in the tables. The ECU handles 550cc injectors decently well as long as you drop fuel pressure a bit. If you don't then the ECU will let the car idle absurdly rich. At 35psi of fuel my car will idle at 14.7-15.3 like stock.
With the injectors you are looking to run, I definitely recommend going standalone. I think you MIGHT get the car to run OK with the SAFC on 680cc injectors as long as you drop the fuel pressure pretty drastically (I've tested mine down to 15psi at idle and it runs perfect that low) but then you are limting how much fuel you can flow anyway.
The OEM ECU will fight against you every minute of the day that you have an SAFC. Best bet with tuning those is to just forget about the closed loop and let the ECU handle it on its own. Only tune ~70% or higher and don't exceed +25% in the tables. The ECU handles 550cc injectors decently well as long as you drop fuel pressure a bit. If you don't then the ECU will let the car idle absurdly rich. At 35psi of fuel my car will idle at 14.7-15.3 like stock.
With the injectors you are looking to run, I definitely recommend going standalone. I think you MIGHT get the car to run OK with the SAFC on 680cc injectors as long as you drop the fuel pressure pretty drastically (I've tested mine down to 15psi at idle and it runs perfect that low) but then you are limting how much fuel you can flow anyway.
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I highly recommend going with a standalone for what your trying to accomplish. I'm not sure why you think a standalone will take away from daily driving reliability. If done right, and by that I mean properly installed and TUNED, you should have no problems with daily driving. I would be more concerned daily driving the car on a S-AFC. I think there was another thread similar to this one where we talked about some of the problems that will possibly occur with the s-afc. The older haltech e6-k's were a little problematic at times if you weren't super familiar with the interface, but with a lot of the new stand-a-lone's, things have become a lot more user friendly.
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No offense to the tuners who told you that, but they are wrong. I mean you said it yourself, there's hondas driving around everyday with that kind of power. Hell I daily drove my 500hp rx7 for over two years on a microtech lt-8, and although it wasn't the best stand-a-lone, it had a proper tune and it drove just fine. I could preach on this subject all day long. I just feel like if your going to do a nice build, don't skimp on one of the things that matters most. Get something that allows you to monitor and control all the things that matter, ie: fuel, timing, injector duty cycle, etc etc etc. Good luck with whatever you decide man!
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No offense to the tuners who told you that, but they are wrong. I mean you said it yourself, there's hondas driving around everyday with that kind of power. Hell I daily drove my 500hp rx7 for over two years on a microtech lt-8, and although it wasn't the best stand-a-lone, it had a proper tune and it drove just fine. I could preach on this subject all day long. I just feel like if your going to do a nice build, don't skimp on one of the things that matters most. Get something that allows you to monitor and control all the things that matter, ie: fuel, timing, injector duty cycle, etc etc etc. Good luck with whatever you decide man!
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Well If money isn't an option go motec. After that you could look into pro-efi, although I haven't used one but have a handful of customers who are using them with good results. After that your looking at the usual list of AEM, the new Haltech stuff. I'm not sure if VI-pec has anything for 1jz or not. Although their stuff is still a little new and might need some quirks worked out before I'd buy one.
#15
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i think if you had proper tuning you'd be praising standalones, especially if you were running one that was made within the last decade. e6k and aem v1 are both archaic compared to what's out there now...
but if you had a competent tuner who actually spent some time tuning the car, you may never know the difference.
but if you had a competent tuner who actually spent some time tuning the car, you may never know the difference.