350Z trans adapter?
06-10-15, 07:16 AM
#586
man I would really like to see a better bell housing adapter option on the market. maybe one that would be short enough to allow the input shaft/clutch splines to go further in so we can use a 2jz flywheel and clutch.
I messages Collins adapters last week asking if the new no milling kit they have will work if I still want to mill the bellhousing, and received no response whatsoever, little disappointing in the communication there.
another view of the shifter, still haven't changed the bottom part for the proper seat that holds the shifter bushing, but as you can see the one I drilled out is actually working.
Moved it 1-6 and reverse.
350z transmission with 240sx shifter - YouTube
I messages Collins adapters last week asking if the new no milling kit they have will work if I still want to mill the bellhousing, and received no response whatsoever, little disappointing in the communication there.
another view of the shifter, still haven't changed the bottom part for the proper seat that holds the shifter bushing, but as you can see the one I drilled out is actually working.
Moved it 1-6 and reverse.
350z transmission with 240sx shifter - YouTube
Your shifter looks very promising! Not much movement at all, extreme short shifter!
Last edited by HiPSI; 06-10-15 at 07:21 AM.
06-10-15, 10:37 AM
#587
Thanks on the shifter, it was quite a bit of brain racking to figure that one out and I am pretty happy with he results. Its not in the video but I got the reverse lockout mounted, just need to go get the 2 shifters welded together and that bottom part changed out. The hole I drilled is working, but it should probably be thicker I would say cut and weld a real shifter bushing holder onto it, or stack some washers of the same size under it and weld those on, the plastic bushing won't care either way as long as it gets some grease its happy.
I just would feel better if the part where the bushing goes through is deeper. will probably make the shifts even tighter too =)
06-15-15, 07:11 AM
#590
Ali, that 240 short shifter is a great idea, I can see in the video how crisp it engages each gear. Nice job, thus far it seems to be the best short setup, even with having to invest some effort to make it work.
06-15-15, 01:01 PM
#593
yeah it seems like the sc400 is forward like an inch or so, but not enough to make it work in the stock location.
Thanks Reyke, I don't mind a solution that takes a bit of work as long as it works as intended. I will be using the one I came up with and if anyone wants to copy it, by all means go for it. I will post a thread on the small details installed, I did grind the round metal part where the shifter rod comes out of flat so that the plate would sit on it well, etc, one could do it with a dremel, I will include all the little bits of info to get it to line up right. if someone gets to it before me then just ask.
Thanks Reyke, I don't mind a solution that takes a bit of work as long as it works as intended. I will be using the one I came up with and if anyone wants to copy it, by all means go for it. I will post a thread on the small details installed, I did grind the round metal part where the shifter rod comes out of flat so that the plate would sit on it well, etc, one could do it with a dremel, I will include all the little bits of info to get it to line up right. if someone gets to it before me then just ask.
06-16-15, 10:02 AM
#595
I thought about it then decided to keep things perfectly leak free I would bolt it on top. only issue is the corner is sort of raised, so what I did was place teh black cover flat on the concrete and pound the edges flat with a hammer on the rear part of it. then the new shift plate fits over it quite nicely. put the cover back on with the gasket, and the shift place you have to bolt it a little to the left side so its centered, so one of the bolts for the black cover goes through the new shifter plate, just one. then use the other 2 big bolts that will go through the shifter plate as well. the back end of the shifter plate rests on the matel round part above where the shifter rod comes out, I just flattened that out with a grinder, or you can uses a dremel, it doesn't affect the trans just cosmetically.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-16-15 at 10:06 AM.
06-18-15, 03:00 PM
#596
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I thought about it then decided to keep things perfectly leak free I would bolt it on top. only issue is the corner is sort of raised, so what I did was place teh black cover flat on the concrete and pound the edges flat with a hammer on the rear part of it. then the new shift plate fits over it quite nicely. put the cover back on with the gasket, and the shift place you have to bolt it a little to the left side so its centered, so one of the bolts for the black cover goes through the new shifter plate, just one. then use the other 2 big bolts that will go through the shifter plate as well. the back end of the shifter plate rests on the matel round part above where the shifter rod comes out, I just flattened that out with a grinder, or you can uses a dremel, it doesn't affect the trans just cosmetically.
06-18-15, 04:48 PM
#597
We need it further back in the SC chassis, so I never bothered with that but it is doable.
putting it at the back of the rear cover would have the shifter at like 28" from the bellhousing or so.
I never tried this but this is how I had thought about doing it after going through several plans.
to get to what you need you need to open the inspection cover, and you will be able to see what nissan calls the "striking arm" which is cast iron part that goes under the shift rod, and on this trans its just straight and sits between 2 centering pins. it also makes contact with the reverse light sensor when its pulled back in reverse.
so what you would have to do, is remove the striking arm which requires pulling the tailshaft off and removing several of those steel rolled pins (did this once already), and then that part will slide off the shift rod.
If you are planning on milling your bellhousing for your kit, then you will be pulling the tailshaft off anyways.
on the nissan manual transmissions the shift rod ends at that part and on the bottom instead of just being flat it has a spot for a shifter to go through. so my thought was you just take the stock 350z striking arm and have a shifter hole welded onto the end of it, you may need to trim it some or whatever its a tight fit in there but it could work. only thing is you would have to cut the end of the selector rod off, so the trans would be modified beyond return, as in you could not go back to remote shift ever, and this is all assuming you can get it to work.
the reason I say modify the striking arm and not get the xterra one shown below which looks more like the end product you will need, is that the cottor pin on those I think are at a different angle, and the selector shaft is super difficult to drill through, i could hardly scratch it with any bits I had.
the 350z striking arm on the other hand is already thin to fit down there perfectly probably just needs the end modified.
this is partly why I chose to go with 32" instead of 28" (not to mention 28" is almost putting you in radio without a swanned shifter) because then you don't have to cut the main rod, but if it works then you wouldn't need it anyways. maybe pick up a cd001 on the cheap see if you can get it to work. I paid $80 for this one and I learnt alot playing around with it.
like in this image see part 32844. that part number is striking arm.
basically you want to copy how a xterra 6 speed manual trans shift linkage is setup.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/xterra-...4_667_683.html
putting it at the back of the rear cover would have the shifter at like 28" from the bellhousing or so.
I never tried this but this is how I had thought about doing it after going through several plans.
to get to what you need you need to open the inspection cover, and you will be able to see what nissan calls the "striking arm" which is cast iron part that goes under the shift rod, and on this trans its just straight and sits between 2 centering pins. it also makes contact with the reverse light sensor when its pulled back in reverse.
so what you would have to do, is remove the striking arm which requires pulling the tailshaft off and removing several of those steel rolled pins (did this once already), and then that part will slide off the shift rod.
If you are planning on milling your bellhousing for your kit, then you will be pulling the tailshaft off anyways.
on the nissan manual transmissions the shift rod ends at that part and on the bottom instead of just being flat it has a spot for a shifter to go through. so my thought was you just take the stock 350z striking arm and have a shifter hole welded onto the end of it, you may need to trim it some or whatever its a tight fit in there but it could work. only thing is you would have to cut the end of the selector rod off, so the trans would be modified beyond return, as in you could not go back to remote shift ever, and this is all assuming you can get it to work.
the reason I say modify the striking arm and not get the xterra one shown below which looks more like the end product you will need, is that the cottor pin on those I think are at a different angle, and the selector shaft is super difficult to drill through, i could hardly scratch it with any bits I had.
the 350z striking arm on the other hand is already thin to fit down there perfectly probably just needs the end modified.
this is partly why I chose to go with 32" instead of 28" (not to mention 28" is almost putting you in radio without a swanned shifter) because then you don't have to cut the main rod, but if it works then you wouldn't need it anyways. maybe pick up a cd001 on the cheap see if you can get it to work. I paid $80 for this one and I learnt alot playing around with it.
like in this image see part 32844. that part number is striking arm.
basically you want to copy how a xterra 6 speed manual trans shift linkage is setup.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/xterra-...4_667_683.html
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-18-15 at 04:56 PM.
06-19-15, 04:00 AM
#598
Well I hope yall are having better luck than I am. Got everything mounted and turns out I had the wrong throw out bearing. After a call to Collins he sent the correct throw out bearing. well now that everything is back together nothings working properly. with the car of it goes into all the gears fine. With the car running it will not go into gear. We have bled the system completely to were fluid only comes out. We have the clutch pedal adjusted all the way out. When I push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor the slave only moves half way then stops. it will not disengage the clutch. So im ordering the twinsturbo.com tilton master cylinder kit and installing that to see if it fixes my issue as Collins has said it sounds like I have an hydraulic issue. Which I don't understand how that's possible when my master is less than a year old and the slave is new.
06-19-15, 07:35 AM
#600
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Join Date: Jan 2014
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We need it further back in the SC chassis, so I never bothered with that but it is doable.
putting it at the back of the rear cover would have the shifter at like 28" from the bellhousing or so.
I never tried this but this is how I had thought about doing it after going through several plans.
to get to what you need you need to open the inspection cover, and you will be able to see what nissan calls the "striking arm" which is cast iron part that goes under the shift rod, and on this trans its just straight and sits between 2 centering pins. it also makes contact with the reverse light sensor when its pulled back in reverse.
so what you would have to do, is remove the striking arm which requires pulling the tailshaft off and removing several of those steel rolled pins (did this once already), and then that part will slide off the shift rod.
If you are planning on milling your bellhousing for your kit, then you will be pulling the tailshaft off anyways.
on the nissan manual transmissions the shift rod ends at that part and on the bottom instead of just being flat it has a spot for a shifter to go through. so my thought was you just take the stock 350z striking arm and have a shifter hole welded onto the end of it, you may need to trim it some or whatever its a tight fit in there but it could work. only thing is you would have to cut the end of the selector rod off, so the trans would be modified beyond return, as in you could not go back to remote shift ever, and this is all assuming you can get it to work.
the reason I say modify the striking arm and not get the xterra one shown below which looks more like the end product you will need, is that the cottor pin on those I think are at a different angle, and the selector shaft is super difficult to drill through, i could hardly scratch it with any bits I had.
the 350z striking arm on the other hand is already thin to fit down there perfectly probably just needs the end modified.
this is partly why I chose to go with 32" instead of 28" (not to mention 28" is almost putting you in radio without a swanned shifter) because then you don't have to cut the main rod, but if it works then you wouldn't need it anyways. maybe pick up a cd001 on the cheap see if you can get it to work. I paid $80 for this one and I learnt alot playing around with it.
like in this image see part 32844. that part number is striking arm.
basically you want to copy how a xterra 6 speed manual trans shift linkage is setup.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/xterra-...4_667_683.html
putting it at the back of the rear cover would have the shifter at like 28" from the bellhousing or so.
I never tried this but this is how I had thought about doing it after going through several plans.
to get to what you need you need to open the inspection cover, and you will be able to see what nissan calls the "striking arm" which is cast iron part that goes under the shift rod, and on this trans its just straight and sits between 2 centering pins. it also makes contact with the reverse light sensor when its pulled back in reverse.
so what you would have to do, is remove the striking arm which requires pulling the tailshaft off and removing several of those steel rolled pins (did this once already), and then that part will slide off the shift rod.
If you are planning on milling your bellhousing for your kit, then you will be pulling the tailshaft off anyways.
on the nissan manual transmissions the shift rod ends at that part and on the bottom instead of just being flat it has a spot for a shifter to go through. so my thought was you just take the stock 350z striking arm and have a shifter hole welded onto the end of it, you may need to trim it some or whatever its a tight fit in there but it could work. only thing is you would have to cut the end of the selector rod off, so the trans would be modified beyond return, as in you could not go back to remote shift ever, and this is all assuming you can get it to work.
the reason I say modify the striking arm and not get the xterra one shown below which looks more like the end product you will need, is that the cottor pin on those I think are at a different angle, and the selector shaft is super difficult to drill through, i could hardly scratch it with any bits I had.
the 350z striking arm on the other hand is already thin to fit down there perfectly probably just needs the end modified.
this is partly why I chose to go with 32" instead of 28" (not to mention 28" is almost putting you in radio without a swanned shifter) because then you don't have to cut the main rod, but if it works then you wouldn't need it anyways. maybe pick up a cd001 on the cheap see if you can get it to work. I paid $80 for this one and I learnt alot playing around with it.
like in this image see part 32844. that part number is striking arm.
basically you want to copy how a xterra 6 speed manual trans shift linkage is setup.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/xterra-...4_667_683.html