92 sc300 1jzgte Swap Is Not Accelerating As Fast As it Should
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
92 sc300 1jzgte Swap Is Not Accelerating As Fast As it Should
Need a little help with this one. I purchase a 92 Sc300 (automatic) with a 1jzgte swap. For the most part, the car runs good. I've been babying her since I got it. I notice that when Im already driving, lets say at about 50 mph, I punch the gas and she slowly accelerates. BUT, when I slowly press the gas, she takes off a lot quicker Feels like there is a loss of power when I press all the way down on the gas pedal. I removed the coil packs and checkd for cracks. They all look good except one. Cleaned them out, and taped up the one with cracks, re installed the coil packs, but no difference in power. Any suggestions?
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
ok.. I will check all of that, and get new coil packs; will get them a.s.a.p. ; if it's not the coil packs I guess it wont hurt having a new set anyways. This car deserves it. Thanks for the Tip
#6
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Do you have a CEL? I don't know who did the wiring for your car, but one thing would be to make sure that the pin outs for the TPS and sub TPS are correct. If the sub TPS was eliminated you will need to splice in 2 extra wires at the ECU so the ECU will think that it's still there and not bother you with problems.
-Cam, Tweak'd Performance
-Cam, Tweak'd Performance
#7
Instructor
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Do you have a CEL? I don't know who did the wiring for your car, but one thing would be to make sure that the pin outs for the TPS and sub TPS are correct. If the sub TPS was eliminated you will need to splice in 2 extra wires at the ECU so the ECU will think that it's still there and not bother you with problems.
-Cam, Tweak'd Performance
-Cam, Tweak'd Performance
Im in the process of doing an aristo wiring harness for my 1jz and i eliminated the sub TPS because my 1j didnt ever have the sub TPS, which two wires need to be spliced exactly? and i assume you spice them into the main TPS
thanks!
glad i came in this thread lol
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#8
Driver School Candidate
iTrader: (1)
Im having the same problem. I know that i have a bad coil pack because i had just replaces the plugs and coil pack clips and now it has recently started to miss around 4000 rpm. The first week that i had the car after i had the swap done it had great acceleration, after that it started to fall on its face around 80 mph, and i get the same feeling that when i only give it a little gas on the highway it accelerates just as fast if not faster than when i have it full throttle.
#11
Driver
Thread Starter
Do you have a CEL? I don't know who did the wiring for your car, but one thing would be to make sure that the pin outs for the TPS and sub TPS are correct. If the sub TPS was eliminated you will need to splice in 2 extra wires at the ECU so the ECU will think that it's still there and not bother you with problems.
-Cam, Tweak'd Performance
-Cam, Tweak'd Performance
I love this club
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
Im having the same problem. I know that i have a bad coil pack because i had just replaces the plugs and coil pack clips and now it has recently started to miss around 4000 rpm. The first week that i had the car after i had the swap done it had great acceleration, after that it started to fall on its face around 80 mph, and i get the same feeling that when i only give it a little gas on the highway it accelerates just as fast if not faster than when i have it full throttle.
#13
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For those of you wondering about the sub TPS elimination, you want to tee VTA2 from the sub TPS into VC, and IDL2 from the sub TPS into the E2 ground at the ECU. I typically do all of this right near the ECU since VTA2 and VC are like 2 pins apart.
-Cam, Tweak'd Performance
-Cam, Tweak'd Performance
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
For those of you wondering about the sub TPS elimination, you want to tee VTA2 from the sub TPS into VC, and IDL2 from the sub TPS into the E2 ground at the ECU. I typically do all of this right near the ECU since VTA2 and VC are like 2 pins apart.
-Cam, Tweak'd Performance
-Cam, Tweak'd Performance
#15
Driver
Thread Starter
My knock sensor wasn't plugged in The clip was broken; it fell off after the swap. I pushed it back in for now, reset the CEL, and now the car is running like a beast. Problem solved