99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Damn You guys are on the roll!! that's exactly what I would do.

Single turbo, flip manifold, cut the flange off, weld some V band on them, build a cross over pipe , and bam!!

Turbo I would do a gt4294 / 4202/S372 or 74 I feel like the S366 will hit too early and too hard for me lol and will make a lot of tq may choke the motor too imo.

The only time you will lift that head is if the tune is not on point or you didn't tq the arp or the new headbolts properly.

fuel system is easy, dual walbro 485, Hell one 485 will be enough with some fic 1100 or ID1000, fid1000 etc..This is a v8 so you have 8000cc worth of fuel , its not a 2jz or 4 banger so it will be enough.

Fuelab regulator, or Weldon with some Teflon lines, 20micron filter in line.

Gerrb , why did he say that? He blew a couple of them up?

I like boost , not too fan of nitrous unless you spray it on top of some boost 0_o.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

He's backkk!!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Just like what I did 7 or 8 years ago researching and validating info about the 1uz with other shops , I told him I wanted a 500rwhp from a stock 1992-1994 1uzfe long block. He said to stay at 400rwhp and just go NA , kelford cams, ITB , direct port nos and you are on the safe side. It will be easier to build it that way than getting 400rwhp through Forced Induction. Not a lot of expensive and time consuming fabrications. It will be a fun car on the streets and scary sounding as hell. 400-500 is the maximum power a stock 1uz can get into without catastrophic failure. He specifically said, if you want to go 500rwhp and more then get rods and pistons or you will be sorry.

Didn't ask more why since I had no reason to doubt him. We from Supraforum know who Jared is. He is the Shop Head at Speed For Sale. They only work on all kinds of Performance vehicles every day . Pretty sure he didn't say that out of no where. This is not a guy who spend time on the forums proving things on the keyboard. He works on all kinds of performance vehicles day in day out even at home.

Last night , I read a lot about Arnout from Netherlands (am sure you know who the guy is) doing a test on the 1UZ, 2JZ , 7M and 3SGTE rods ... the 1UZ rod shattered and the 3 didnt . Even mechanical engineers who didn't agree on the way he tested the rods to prove how weak the 1UZ rod is, agree on one thing ..THE 2JZ ROD IS STRONGER THAN THE 1UZ ROD because a 2JZ rod is a FORGED ROD where as a 1UZ rod is a SINTER ROD. Well, who knows what the hell that means, . I am just a damn DIY dude who do not know much but loves to read and validate what he reads with people who do it for a living before he believes and do it in real life.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I remember reading that thread, he wasn't testing the rod's properly but they was he was doing it he was able to break those first. at least the early rods are thick, but if they are a weaker composition that would not be ideal. maybe its time for a metal anaylysys vs just seeing when they break, might have to source out some rods and see for myself, anyone know a metallurgist.. lol
still if all it takes at the end of the day is building the block with some rods pistons and pins and the usual throwing some arp's with a MLS headgasket on there, that wouldn't be so bad if its bulletproof after that. one could take their time and build the block for more power, but the op's 600 is pretty nice for a stock setup.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

It is a lot easier for those who can build their engines themselves like you. Labor is a big part of the cost on a build. So if one can build the engine, it's a matter of buying rods and pistons and arp hardware and you got a bullet proof engine that you can push all day if it is well built. Rather than trying to play with fire always having fear of blowing out the internals of your engine whenever you play and push your car harder . Better do it once and right as they used to say.

I was just thinking... built 1UZ long block but instead of Forced Induction , progressive nitrous with the setup above recommended by Jared. Those 8 individual throttle bodies with a good exhaust, cams on a V8 will be sweet sounding. I just want to avoid all the fabrications that I cannot do and will need to give up an arm and a leg to get someone to do it for me. The rest I believe I can do and save the labor cost.

I bet plumbing direct port nitrous on a 1UZ will be sweet just like what I did on my 2JZ. It will be a cool looking setup. I have been addicted to nitrous now..hahaha...every time I push that button ... best bang for your buck... HP per Dollar ! I guess that is why Jared suggested it too instead of Forced Induction on the 1UZ

ihiryu

iTrader: (7)

I ran a 200 shot back in the heyday.

Single fogger with the big NOS solenoids. No problems, that motor is the same one that is still in the car.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

This thread has become quite interesting, on multiple levels.

See, this is exactly what I was harping on as far as do we really know the later model 1UZ rods are weaker just because they're thinner? Although, I may have been headed the wrong direction with it... I've felt all along that there are some seriously erroneous assumptions at play with newer materials and fabrication methods potentially making a huge difference, but maybe it's all 1UZ rods that used weaker alloys?

ITBs on the 1UZ sound amazing in the video clips. I would be all over that if not for the stories of how finicky they are to tune for a daily driver. They look amazing, as well, but that suffers significantly by having to be covered up by an air box.

I must say, I've never understood the appeal of NOS. I want that N/A power whenever I press the pedal, not when I remember to press a button and top off the bottle. If I were going to the drag strip regularly or frequenting long, desolate roads, I would probably feel differently. Around town, it doesn't seem like a practical solution to adding power.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Omar - do you have an idea why this car with TT 1UZ was parted out in favor of a 2jzgte ? I know this car made around 560rwhp with built internals on a TH400. Then the TH400 was swapped with a v160 6speed so it should be making more with the 6 speed. Then it was parted out, a 2jzgte with the 6speed was done by Freed and made 730rwhp.

Maybe you can ask Freed. Did the 1UZFE with built internals blow up that is why it was replaced with a 2JZGTE ? The guys spent over $30k just on that 1UZFE motor, turbo kit / ECU . That doesn't even include the TH400 or V160 and others. There should be a reason why one with that power on 1UZ will just part it out and go to a 2JZGTE after all the money and time spent on it, not unless he was aiming for more.

When I read something like this about the UZFE , it just makes you reconsider your plans whether it is all worth it playing with a UZFE with all the cost and time involved building one. With that money $30k just on the motor and turbo kit ... you have a freaking 1000rwhp 2JZGTE SC 6speed. And I don't know if one can really enjoy a 400-500rwhp car when you have been regularly playing with +1000rwhp cars.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Gerrb, that is true, building a 1uz is not very feasible unless you DIY. I try and at least get everything designed out and close to the welding stage and just drop it off.

The nitrous seems very interesting, don't have much experience with it but I would be interested to know how much you can get out of a 1uz that way as well. It doesn't have super large v8 displacement so power adders won't do as much per modification as you normally think with a v8, but all in all it might add up you never know.

Individual bodies would be interesting, but not sure how much that will help the performance numbers, maybe the response, never ran em but they sure sound great. I would stick a box over those 8 throttle's and strap a turbo to it but that seems to always jump in my head.

t2ds, If there is a difference it will be that they used the better metal in the turbo vehicles and the normal metal in the n/a vehicles, toyota has a history of making this sort of split so it would not surprise me, as in turbo cars get a slight upgrade in most departments, but I previously thought they were more similar. I guess someone will figure it out but I am talking only about 92-94 rods, I wouldn't waste my time with the later ones they are skinny and if there is a better material I can't see why they would use it there, and the 2uz rods get thrown out of blocks all the time that have the trd supercharger, thus discontinued the trd supercharger for the 4.7l, and I would think by that logic if the skinny rods had better material the newer v8 with skinnier rods would have it too.

I wish it wasn't so or I would be the first person to go for a 1uz vvti which would produce more power right away, but It wont get you where a 92-94 1uz can get you on a stock block. if you were building the block anyways, the vvti one may even be a better choice if you are running an ecu that can run it. heck a 4.7l non vvti 2uz would be really nice if you were building the internals anyways, same amount of work but much more displacement. if you do custom pistons and rods on a 2uz block you can bolt the 1uz heads to it too which makes it more rev happy. lextreme has the info on that.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Exactly the point why boosting a UZFE NOW is expensinve because 98% of those who wanted a boosted UZFE are NOT like you who can work on every aspect of their cars, just too much work that would cost time and money .

The only reason Jared suggested ITBs or nitrous is because I told him stock 92-94 long block. I don't think ITBs will give much performance upgrade but nice sounding setup. He would not recommend anything above 400rwhp on a stock long block. So as not to spend much , based on his recommendation just spray it since it is not worth the time and money you put into it if you go Forced Induction just to get near 400rwhp. Again, HP per Dollar aint there. At 400rwhp, you are still on the safe side, as you go higher getting towards the 500rwhp, you are flirting with disaster according to him.

Ihiryu said he sprayed 200 shots which puts him near 380rwhp and engine held up. It is the best bang for a buck , cheapest power adder . Could probably be a good alternative if you just want to test how far that engine will bring you without spending tons ... progressivelly increase the nitrous till it blows .. hahaha.

Nitrous had indeed brought a lot of scare in the performance world. I do believe and if you ask those who know what they are doing, it is all about the people who didn't do things right that made a bad name for nitrous. But all these big known tuners we know , they will recommend it if you have the funds to install one on top of your turbo. They wil never talk you out of it cause they know it is a good power adder.

Well, after a good talk with Jared about this stock 1UZFE , been convinced before and all the more convinced now (after talking to more respected people who are on top of their leagues working on different performance cars day in day out) , that there is no point at least in my case , playing around with a stock 1UZFE. It will be a waste of money and time for me. I will always be comparing it with how it performs compared to my other cars. If I didn't have other much better cars , then that is a different story . Not unless I just want something different which will always be inferior with most of what I already have.

Funny you mentioned the 2UZFE cause I was told it will be a different story if I will go all out with the UZ .. built . Then go for the 2UZFE block since it has a bigger displacement at 4.7l... . Coupled with aftermarket internals and all the supporting accessories like ECU, then you can have a lethal combination . It is an iron block that would not warp as easy compared to the 1UZ and it is more suited for higher boost applications.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Gerrb, it wont be as bad as you think, if you are going to build it there is no reason not to start with a 2uz block you get the 4.7L displacement, get to build the bottom end and use a 1uz head, so its the best of all worlds due to the iron block. some people will complain about the weight but power always solves weight in my book just get some new springs. I know those guys do alot of builds but as you said most people use a 2jz, so even if they have worked on a handfull of UZ doesn't mean they had the time to figure out every last detail to solve all the weak points. the 2uz's go to like 500k all the time, I bet with the right bottom end hardware they would be beastly, and you wouldn't have to run much boost to get where you want = less chance of lifting the heads.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

yeap ... if I will be doing one, i might as well go all out with a built 2uzfe iron block which is 4.7l and boost it high . You said it right , the 1UZ being an aluminum block which is softer than iron is more susceptible to having a lifted head with higher boost levels.

I will start doing more research about it . I will look for rods and pistons that can handle +1000rwhp . Luxurymods / Lextreme has a set of UZFE aftermarket rods and pistons that can handle 800rwhp at around $2k which is reasonable. It is really the plumbing / fabrications part that will be the expensive part for me since I cannot weld. That is why I was asking you if you can do one, I will just pay you to do one for me... I can't weld . It is a lot better asking someone who knows what you are trying to accomplish to do the fabrication for you.

I will have to start talking to Ryan and ask him who did his fabrication and costs involved.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

seems like there should be some more piston rod options out there but that is a good place to start looking. yeah the fab part just sort of depends how involved it gets. if one could find the right headers to start from then less fab would be needed. good news is there are many to choose from, bad news is no one has tried or researched all of them yet. if there is a combo where you don't need to cut the flanges off of and weld like v-bands on, then you could even replicate it for a bolt on kit, but as soon as you cut those flanges off its more of a weld in place sort of job. I believe sc400tt did some custom hardware on his build might have to read that one again its been a while, he was commenting in the other thread about it.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

wouldn't it wiser that if you are going all out on a UZFE, that is, building your short block and head with aftermarket parts for power, you might as well use the VVTi head of the 2UZFE. You have a bigger displacement from the block and you get better torque on the lower end from the VVTi. I don't see the point of matching the head of the older UZFE into a 2UZFE if you are going all out and wanted to make real power.

Aftermarket pistons, you can get CP Pistons, Ross, Stock pistons by Enginetech. Rods , the only thing I have seen so far are Eagle Rods and branded by Lextreme and TTC. I will call Carillo and Crower. I know they don't have shelf rods for the UZFE not unless I just missed them in my search.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Gerrb, I know that car , I know the owner im friends with him.

Jeff is very wealthy person,he gets tired of cars and setup really quick so he goes through setups..

Engine was in perfect shape when he decided to build something new, he gets tired of setup really quick..From bikes, to Supras, truck, Benzs, you name it he goes through them like that.

He just the type that don't keep stuff for too long lol, that's one thing him an I have in common.

He is selling the GS to start another project, its actually in the classifieds since last week.

The car was bad bish, when it was TT V8, was more fun to drive on the 6speed for what I understood..

The V8 setup was working when he decided to pull it out and go 2JZ, Money is no issue with him!!