Loosing oil (2jzge)
#1
Loosing oil (2jzge)
Ok, I hate posting this like some forum newb but I've searched and can't find anything.
We have a 95 sc300 2jzge(mobil 1 high mileage synthetic, all stock, automatic), it looses oil but has no noticeable drips in my garage where it's parked daily. It seems to loose oil only when driven on the freeway. We can drive it no freeway(60 miles a day) and it will not loose oil for a week. A week of 60 miles a day on the freeway and it will have noticeable oil lose, some times 1/4 of a qt in a week which seems like a Lot to me. The oil lose is not consistent though and fluctuates.
The exhaust/bumper has no black residue, no smoke from the exhaust that can be seen and no oil in the intake. I changed the spark plugs recently and they had no signs of deposits. The coolant is clean and no sign of BHG that I can tell. The oil also looks fine with no signs of water in it.
When not being driven on the freeway it's driven hard, high rpm often and not babied at all. I'm not sure why the freeway is causing a difference other than the higher speed.
Any recommendations of what/where to check? Could it be dripping from somewhere common and being collected somewhere then blowing off so it's not leaving spots on my floor? I am wanting to do a compression test next to see if the rings are bad but if oil is going past the rings why am I not seeing it out from the exhaust?
/Magical disappearing oil.
We have a 95 sc300 2jzge(mobil 1 high mileage synthetic, all stock, automatic), it looses oil but has no noticeable drips in my garage where it's parked daily. It seems to loose oil only when driven on the freeway. We can drive it no freeway(60 miles a day) and it will not loose oil for a week. A week of 60 miles a day on the freeway and it will have noticeable oil lose, some times 1/4 of a qt in a week which seems like a Lot to me. The oil lose is not consistent though and fluctuates.
The exhaust/bumper has no black residue, no smoke from the exhaust that can be seen and no oil in the intake. I changed the spark plugs recently and they had no signs of deposits. The coolant is clean and no sign of BHG that I can tell. The oil also looks fine with no signs of water in it.
When not being driven on the freeway it's driven hard, high rpm often and not babied at all. I'm not sure why the freeway is causing a difference other than the higher speed.
Any recommendations of what/where to check? Could it be dripping from somewhere common and being collected somewhere then blowing off so it's not leaving spots on my floor? I am wanting to do a compression test next to see if the rings are bad but if oil is going past the rings why am I not seeing it out from the exhaust?
/Magical disappearing oil.
#3
I was thinking the rear main seal maybe leaking when exposed to the long freeway runs Vs. the stop and go traffic. I'm still not seeing any oil dripping from the transmission area at all, I will double check though.
I'm worried it's not dripping when the car is off so I'm just not seeing it.
I'm worried it's not dripping when the car is off so I'm just not seeing it.
#4
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1/4 of a quart of oil lost in say 300-500 miles of high speed driving certainly ain't the end of the world. You never said how many miles are on the car. I say don't worry so much about it, just enjoy the car, keep the oil topped off and if your running synthetic change the oil/filter every 6,000 miles, 3,000 if running regular dino oil. You may want to put in some Marvel Mystery Oil and run some SeaFome for good measure and do a good tune up.
#5
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Same thing has happened to me. I lose about 1qt of oil every two weeks (900 miles). I'm pretty sure it's the piston rings that are fried. I just check my oil every few days and add more when necessary. I also use Synthetic but it's Pennzoil 10w30. I've never seen a drop of oil on the ground in my garage. When I start up my car, I get a lot of white smoke. I always let it warm up for a few minutes before driving it. I changed ECU's in November but that didn't fix anything. At this point I don't care because the car runs fine and I'm not losing any coolant. It just sucks that I have to spend $20 a month on extra oil, but it's not that big of a deal. It's a 1995 and it's just getting old. It's a good excuse to swap a GTE motor. Just keep checking your oil every few days and add when necessary.
#6
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BTW, you may be losing some oil at your cam seals and possibly your valve cover gaskets, and as stated, your front and back main seals. All common points of oil leaks on these older engines. If you have oily residue around your water pump/ timing belt cover at about midpoint (use a REAL good flashlight) then you have a oil leak most likely at the cam seals. Also check your bottom plastic engine compartment cover for oil spots and trace where they are coming from. When doing a timing belt change it is ALWAYS a GREAT idea to change the water pump, front engine main seal,valve cover gaskets (spark plugs to!) and the two cam seals since they are all right there staring you dead in the face.
#7
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theres a lot of bad info on this board.....
1. Check for oil under your crank pulley(front crank seal,cam seals)
2. Check for oil leaking betweek trans and bellhousing(rear main seal)
3.Check for oil leaking from vavle cover gaskets
4. Check for oil leaking from under the distrubitor shaft(distrubitor o ring)
if you dont find any significant amounts of oil leaking from those 4 most likely its your valve seals it will only smoke at cold start up and sometimes when youre sitting at a light idling for more then a few minutes and then you take off you see a puff if you pay attention, this was my problem and my bumper never had any black sud on it.
Piston rings are very unlikely unless you didnt change your oil on time for a long time, 2jz is a very strong engine and will run forever if you take care of it and replace gaskets that dry rot over time, but either way you can always do a compression test, before you just take a wild guess.
1. Check for oil under your crank pulley(front crank seal,cam seals)
2. Check for oil leaking betweek trans and bellhousing(rear main seal)
3.Check for oil leaking from vavle cover gaskets
4. Check for oil leaking from under the distrubitor shaft(distrubitor o ring)
if you dont find any significant amounts of oil leaking from those 4 most likely its your valve seals it will only smoke at cold start up and sometimes when youre sitting at a light idling for more then a few minutes and then you take off you see a puff if you pay attention, this was my problem and my bumper never had any black sud on it.
Piston rings are very unlikely unless you didnt change your oil on time for a long time, 2jz is a very strong engine and will run forever if you take care of it and replace gaskets that dry rot over time, but either way you can always do a compression test, before you just take a wild guess.
Last edited by MDSC; 03-05-11 at 06:24 PM.
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#9
I thought I would update this.
I had the exhaust shielding off and noticed a Lot of dried up oil gunk right below the distributer. I hadn't seen this before with the exhaust shielding and distributer metal shield in the way. I searched here and found the thread and realized it was a common leak spot so I had the O-ring ordered.
I marked everything and pulled the Distributer and the underside of it was just encrusted with gunk. Took a lot to get it clean and I even saw fresh oil on the recently cleaned exhaust shield and a little oil dripping from the shaft opening. The old O-ring was hard as plastic and flattened, obviously long past it's usable life. It actually cracked in half when I tried to pull it off.
New O-ring from the dealer for $2.40 in place and so far no leaks in that area. One problem solved then another introduced as seen in my gauge cluster light thread ha.
I had the exhaust shielding off and noticed a Lot of dried up oil gunk right below the distributer. I hadn't seen this before with the exhaust shielding and distributer metal shield in the way. I searched here and found the thread and realized it was a common leak spot so I had the O-ring ordered.
I marked everything and pulled the Distributer and the underside of it was just encrusted with gunk. Took a lot to get it clean and I even saw fresh oil on the recently cleaned exhaust shield and a little oil dripping from the shaft opening. The old O-ring was hard as plastic and flattened, obviously long past it's usable life. It actually cracked in half when I tried to pull it off.
New O-ring from the dealer for $2.40 in place and so far no leaks in that area. One problem solved then another introduced as seen in my gauge cluster light thread ha.
#10
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I thought I would update this.
I had the exhaust shielding off and noticed a Lot of dried up oil gunk right below the distributer. I hadn't seen this before with the exhaust shielding and distributer metal shield in the way. I searched here and found the thread and realized it was a common leak spot so I had the O-ring ordered.
I marked everything and pulled the Distributer and the underside of it was just encrusted with gunk. Took a lot to get it clean and I even saw fresh oil on the recently cleaned exhaust shield and a little oil dripping from the shaft opening. The old O-ring was hard as plastic and flattened, obviously long past it's usable life. It actually cracked in half when I tried to pull it off.
New O-ring from the dealer for $2.40 in place and so far no leaks in that area. One problem solved then another introduced as seen in my gauge cluster light thread ha.
I had the exhaust shielding off and noticed a Lot of dried up oil gunk right below the distributer. I hadn't seen this before with the exhaust shielding and distributer metal shield in the way. I searched here and found the thread and realized it was a common leak spot so I had the O-ring ordered.
I marked everything and pulled the Distributer and the underside of it was just encrusted with gunk. Took a lot to get it clean and I even saw fresh oil on the recently cleaned exhaust shield and a little oil dripping from the shaft opening. The old O-ring was hard as plastic and flattened, obviously long past it's usable life. It actually cracked in half when I tried to pull it off.
New O-ring from the dealer for $2.40 in place and so far no leaks in that area. One problem solved then another introduced as seen in my gauge cluster light thread ha.
#12
Just wanted to update this and still leaking.
I noticed I have a nice wet spot Above the crank pulley. It looks like it is coming from between the front lower engine cover and the mid-cover. I would then assume it has got to be the cam seal(s) or valve cover(s).
I am going to decide if I want to go ahead and do a timing belt job or try the valve covers first.
I noticed I have a nice wet spot Above the crank pulley. It looks like it is coming from between the front lower engine cover and the mid-cover. I would then assume it has got to be the cam seal(s) or valve cover(s).
I am going to decide if I want to go ahead and do a timing belt job or try the valve covers first.
#14
I am thinking I may just do the valve covers because it is much easier to get at. I am nearly convinced however it is not the valve covers just because the fresh oil I am seeing is to far down but above the crank pulley. All I can do is hope the oil is trickling down a funky path otherwise it will become a much bigger project ha.
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