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Am I over thinking this WAY too much???

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Old 01-10-11, 11:56 AM
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BrownGuy
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Default Am I over thinking this WAY too much???

Ok here is the deal, I was able to get my hands on a 1j from a chaser and wanted to do the swap right. I have been on the here (CL) and Supraforums researching doing the 1jz swap and thought that I had everything planned out to get it done over a weekend. So far here is my parts list:

came with the purchase:
-1jz-gte from a chaser with harness and ecu
* harness was cut and spliced and what not so I just bought a soarer harness

additionally purchased:
-full 1jz gasket kit
-soarer harness

need to purchase:
-1jz flywheel
-e-clutchmasters stage 2
-exhaust down piping
-fmic w/piping
-bov

I am trying to see what it is that i am forgetting, if anything, as well an answer to this question...could I have just dropped the motor in as it was when I first got it with the chaser ecu and harness in my SC3?
Old 01-10-11, 01:32 PM
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TLDriver
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beer!!! you forgot beer
Old 01-10-11, 04:13 PM
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jadu
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extra wire to extend the harness
Old 01-10-11, 07:54 PM
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cartmill
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Originally Posted by account2x
I have done some research on the 1jz-gte swap and from what I have learned the engine has less displacement and the head flows worse then the 2jz-ge therefore it is quite simply a complete waste of money.


^ do some more research.



OP, you need a 1jz out of a soarer... the chaser 1jz will require a rear sump oil pan, re-wiring (harness and soarer harnesses are similar, but different), and maybe some other things that i can't think of at the moment.
this would be unnecessary work, as people find the soarer 1jzs fairly easily.
Old 01-11-11, 04:59 PM
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suprus
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You also need a supra throttle cable, upper and lower radiator hoses, supra water pump, power steering resevoir, driveshaft depending on what tranny youre using.. I guess thats all I can think of for now..
Old 01-11-11, 05:18 PM
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meangreen1
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Off the op of my head, you need 97-98 MKIV motor mounts, rear sump pan, Rear main seal, should replace the thermostat, spark plugs, water pump, belts, ect.. I am sure I forgot a few, but keep in mind all the little stuff adds up quick. And NEVER buy cheap aftermarket parts. Stay with Toyota.
Old 01-13-11, 09:02 PM
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lfrers
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BrownGuy,

Maybe look at a different clutch.
Look at southbend clutches. Google them.
Might be a better buy in the clutch department.
Old 01-13-11, 09:32 PM
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BrownGuy
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Guys I really appreciate the dialog. Learning ALOT.

Originally Posted by lfrers
BrownGuy,

Maybe look at a different clutch.
Look at southbend clutches. Google them.
Might be a better buy in the clutch department.
ill be sure to compare and contrast thanks. How do the southbend clutches hold up compared to e-clutch masters? has anyone ran an e-clutch masters clutch and pressure plate?

And so that there is no speculation....to be honest I went 1jz to be boosted with a stock ecu and not have to worry about tuning the motor after the motor is dropped in. (initially) Since it is my daily i dont want to mess up anything on the motor while learning how to tune to the point where i mess up my only mode of transportation :-/

going n-at there is some knowledge of tuning even a fuel controller must be understood, sad to say...im just not there yet.

Last edited by BrownGuy; 01-13-11 at 09:36 PM.
Old 01-18-11, 10:45 AM
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stockhatch
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Well, maybe just a cleanup so the poor op can still get help with his build.
Old 01-18-11, 11:39 AM
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plex
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OP: Work with what you have seems your goals can be attained with the 1jz setup comfortably. All the stuff in the other stuff in this thread is just the infamous 1jz vs everything else battle ha ha. 1jz is good bang for the buck initially for drop in and drive around but the lust for more power combined with 1j twins dying sooner or later leads to spending more on going single. By doing that the costs are now equal to or pass a na-t or even 2jzgte stock setup.
Old 01-18-11, 12:57 PM
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It doesn't matter what anyone's opinion is. Including my own.

The 1jz is installed in his car. Done deal.

I could have helped with the Chaser harness issue, but he got a soarer one. This will plug right in.

The only two people that had anything relevant to say in this thread, were the first two people suggesting some time and beer to do the job.

Glad it turned to this. I though this was a Lexus forum.
Old 01-18-11, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by stockhatch
Well, maybe just a cleanup so the poor op can still get help with his build.
Done.

Can you guys just help him w/ his Q please.

1JZ vs 2JZGTE vs NA-t Debate thread here:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post6075249

Have at it over there..

Last edited by Supra Dr; 01-18-11 at 08:16 PM.
Old 01-20-11, 06:45 PM
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BrownGuy
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Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Although the portion of the 1jz vs 2jz vs NA-T debate kinda started up, it was still some good information....not exactly what i needed but informative none the less.

But I am still wondering about if anyone has ran the e-Clutchmasters stage 2 setup (for reference)? And also if its possible to use stock usdm GTE turbos with a 1j?
Old 01-20-11, 07:46 PM
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stockhatch
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When I bought my w58 swap, it came with a clutchmasters stage 3 clutch. It was used and maybe something was wrong with it, but it had a weak pressure plate, and it never did have a good solid bite to it IMO. For a nearly stock 1j I would go with an ACT street disk setup. Get a full face disk, you will thank me later.
Old 01-21-11, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by BrownGuy
But I am still wondering about if anyone has ran the e-Clutchmasters stage 2 setup (for reference)? And also if its possible to use stock usdm GTE turbos with a 1j?
I recommend any sprung-hub clutch. Tons of options.

Solid hub destroys transmissions.

Good for the On/off light-switch engagement of drift cars, but annoying for DD's.

You cannot bolt 2jzgte ct12b's onto the 1jz manifold.

You can drill the manifold to accept the ct12b's, but they only have one wastegate between the two turbines.

This means you are forced to run in sequential mode, unless another wastegated turbine housing is sourced.

So a little work, but a good option to replace the ceramic wheeled ct12a's, and keep the twin setup.

Also, it is possible to swap all the 2jzge oilpan stuff to the 1jz.

This will save a bunch of money, and keeps the "low oil" light functional.


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