What is the pros/cons of a Solid Driveshaft Bushing?
#3
Lead Lap
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SF CA
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
pros?
good for shocking the rear end and drifting (if you are into that thing)
probably not going to wear through it- at all
may be cheaper than OEM toyota part ($173 with cali tax wholesale)
bad?
you'll have to DIY or have a machine shop build the part for you (may cost more than $173 dealer and 1 days to get it in your car). also custom build issues, NVH/harmonics/hardware- I would HATE to see the bolts from driveshaft->flexdisc delete->diff work themselves loose from vibration.........things like this do happen......esp at the speeds I drive at :P
center bearing of DS will have more shock (nvh) and harmonics to handle
Diff pinion bearing will have more shock (nvh) and harmonics to handle
clutch will more directly actulate the rear diff (lockup if you have LSD)
if you run a heavy duty clutch (i.e) twinplate + guibo delete (guibo is the bmw term for rubber driveshaft bushing), or have a solid driveshaft, it can cause large shock loads on the rear diff ring and pinion- friend ran an OS giken carbon/carbon on his RX7 with an aluminum 1 piece shaft, and the trans/clutch held up- but the ring and pinion of rear diff didnt like it.
the mk4 NA/Lexus rear diff is strong, the trans would be the weak link for your car.
if you have a street car, or like to drive your SC FAST (i.e. over 140mph alligator alley style), then I would suggest keeping the stock rubber part. it dosnt wear that fast (should live for 4-5 years of solid use/fun) and much longer for DD use.
good for shocking the rear end and drifting (if you are into that thing)
probably not going to wear through it- at all
may be cheaper than OEM toyota part ($173 with cali tax wholesale)
bad?
you'll have to DIY or have a machine shop build the part for you (may cost more than $173 dealer and 1 days to get it in your car). also custom build issues, NVH/harmonics/hardware- I would HATE to see the bolts from driveshaft->flexdisc delete->diff work themselves loose from vibration.........things like this do happen......esp at the speeds I drive at :P
center bearing of DS will have more shock (nvh) and harmonics to handle
Diff pinion bearing will have more shock (nvh) and harmonics to handle
clutch will more directly actulate the rear diff (lockup if you have LSD)
if you run a heavy duty clutch (i.e) twinplate + guibo delete (guibo is the bmw term for rubber driveshaft bushing), or have a solid driveshaft, it can cause large shock loads on the rear diff ring and pinion- friend ran an OS giken carbon/carbon on his RX7 with an aluminum 1 piece shaft, and the trans/clutch held up- but the ring and pinion of rear diff didnt like it.
the mk4 NA/Lexus rear diff is strong, the trans would be the weak link for your car.
if you have a street car, or like to drive your SC FAST (i.e. over 140mph alligator alley style), then I would suggest keeping the stock rubber part. it dosnt wear that fast (should live for 4-5 years of solid use/fun) and much longer for DD use.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post