madmax98

Just wondering how long it took members here to change the head gasket, i'm about to do it and want to know the average down time, No air tools and off the shelf tools only...

lemmiewink

The time it takes you varies on quite a few things. Mainly if you have experience or not, and how deep and thorough you want this job to be. I chose to get my head decked and cleaned, and to replace my water pump. Here are a couple of things you might want to look into assuming you have never done this before.

I suggest getting cam seals and manifold gaskets while your at it. Also check if you need a valve job. Easy way of doin this is, while the head is off and cams are removed, Pour water into the intake ports while the head is sitting on its exhaust side. Look at the combustion chamber and note how many drops per second of water if any leak through your valves. If more than ONE DROP PER SECOND leaks then it is a good idea to get a valve job.

I did this in about 2 weeks total working on it on and off with a GTE including waiting for parts I ordered. Take your time with getting to know the removal sequences of your cams and head bolts. Same thing for installation.

Make sure that you have the right tool for the head bolt. You need a double square socket driver.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....group_ID=20984
Don't reuse the same head bolts. Either order new ones or go ARP head studs which I did.

Good luck.
Other than that, its pretty simple.

Gunnar

I'd definitely suggest ARP head studs. Makes installation and removal of the head sooo much easier, plus if you're planning on turbo down the road as your sig says you're going to want it.

If it's your first time to do it plan on it either taking a whole day or a few nights if that's the only time you can work on it. It's not the most difficult thing in the world but you always want to plan to have time for snags, trips to the parts store in case you need anything, and just little stuff you didn't realize you needed to do. If you have any questions just ask, people here are glad to help. And DEFINITELY be careful removing the stock headbolts. A stripped headbolt is the biggest pain in the world on these motors.

LEX_MAN

iTrader: (2)

Yeah what these guys said. Remember to follow the FSM, and dont rush.Take your time and make it fun.

Dont skip on anything.You can buy the whole H/G kit(supras cheaper), it includes all of the gaskets ,including the valve seals.

Dont forget to remove the crank pulley early(starter and a long bar trick) before you get stuck like me.

Like Gunner said,DO NOT STRIP THE HEAD BOLTS! Same thing happened to me,and you dont want to go through it...trust me.

lemmiewink

You don't need to take off the crank pulley. If you look at the fsm on how to remove the head, you just take of the timing belt tensioner and pull off the top part of the belt from the cams and let it lay there.

I only did it because i had to replace the water pump.

madmax98

Did you guys have to take off the cam pullies? i know the FSM says remove them but do we really have to?
i never taken the SC head off, but i've taken the 3vzfe heads off and it was a pain to get the head bolts off of that 17 year old motor <literally split my Snap On socket, go figure>.
I'm mechanically "okay" i guess, unfortunately a perfectionist and i pay a lot of attention to details < X military, lol> And all the work done in my signature is done by me alone, so i don't think i'll have a problem. I just to wanted to get an estimate for the downtime since it's my DD... thnx for all your help guys....

LEX_MAN

iTrader: (2)

The pulley tentioner is covered by the plastic,you cant remove it without removing the plastic.You cant remove the plastic untill you remove the crank pulley.
If i'm not mistaking ofcorse..

LEX_MAN

iTrader: (2)

You'll have to take off the cam pulleys because you'll need to replace the oil seals on the cams.But its very easy, so dont sweat the small stuff.

lemmiewink

I believe you are mistaken. The tensioner is removed via 2 bolts from behind the crank pulley near the alternator. It looks like a small gray cylinder. Pics to prove follow the link.

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base

You do not need to remove any plastic what so ever. When you release the tension from the timing belt just slide off the top part that is resting on the cams and let it lean on the plastic piece.



You were probably referring to the timing belt idler pulley which cannot be taken out unless you do everything you just said.

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base

Once again. If you are just taking off the head and you do not need to do anything with your timing belt or water pump.

You do not need to take off your crank pulley. Doing so will be a waste of time and, knowing this motor, will be a big pain in the ***.

LEX_MAN

iTrader: (2)

WOW i guess you are right.Just checked the FSM.....I wasted 6 hours for nothing

Lirning al da time