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#256
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
I did it 2 days ago and I like it. The hard downshift is just mildly annoying but I will easily get used to it. I'm no mechanic but it feels like it's my roasted diff bushings allowing my diff to rock causing the knock? I wonder how new diff bushings, motor mounts, tranny mounts would effect this. Would the more solid drivetrain transfer more shock, or would the lack of flex make things smoother because it's tight? I am also considering the switch and would also like to know for sure if I have to stop the car or turn off the car to safely switch it? Whats a super cool switch I could buy?
I'm in the middle of building a new stereo head unit mount, with a space below it for switches. I have the panel cut and the bracing mostly ready to go together, but I need to pull the old one out to make sure the angles are all correct before permanently securing pieces. I scavenged some old server hardware for nice little toggle switches complete with convenient disconnects. One will be for the solenoid bypass, and the other unused for now but maybe a hardwired radar detector or something later.
I was originally looking for a 30mm latching push button to replace the stock stereo's power/volume button (seemed appropriate!), but could only find momentary switches in that size. I don't want something needlessly illuminated, so latching is necessary in order to know when it's on or off without cycling through it to feel the difference.
Didn't OldManTan confirm earlier in the thread that you can toggle the bypass on the fly?
#257
Lexus Champion
I have a pretty noticeable jolt on the 2-1 downshift. I don't know how worn my transmission mount is, but my new one should be arriving tomorrow... I do know that my differential-subframe bushings are very worn, but I'm unsure of the bushings for the diff's ears. It would be interesting to hear from anyone who's done the solenoid bypass that has before/after bushing replacement comparison points.
I'm in the middle of building a new stereo head unit mount, with a space below it for switches. I have the panel cut and the bracing mostly ready to go together, but I need to pull the old one out to make sure the angles are all correct before permanently securing pieces. I scavenged some old server hardware for nice little toggle switches complete with convenient disconnects. One will be for the solenoid bypass, and the other unused for now but maybe a hardwired radar detector or something later.
I was originally looking for a 30mm latching push button to replace the stock stereo's power/volume button (seemed appropriate!), but could only find momentary switches in that size. I don't want something needlessly illuminated, so latching is necessary in order to know when it's on or off without cycling through it to feel the difference.
Didn't OldManTan confirm earlier in the thread that you can toggle the bypass on the fly?
I'm in the middle of building a new stereo head unit mount, with a space below it for switches. I have the panel cut and the bracing mostly ready to go together, but I need to pull the old one out to make sure the angles are all correct before permanently securing pieces. I scavenged some old server hardware for nice little toggle switches complete with convenient disconnects. One will be for the solenoid bypass, and the other unused for now but maybe a hardwired radar detector or something later.
I was originally looking for a 30mm latching push button to replace the stock stereo's power/volume button (seemed appropriate!), but could only find momentary switches in that size. I don't want something needlessly illuminated, so latching is necessary in order to know when it's on or off without cycling through it to feel the difference.
Didn't OldManTan confirm earlier in the thread that you can toggle the bypass on the fly?
#258
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
Here's the toggle switch I'll be using. It's got a much more secure feel to it than any of the ones I've looked at in the auto parts stores, although even the cheap ones I've used in the past are quite reliable. I would prefer a screw-in one than the snap-in style, but those really limit the options and the snaps on this one are incredibly stout.
#260
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
The hard downshift is just mildly annoying but I will easily get used to it. I'm no mechanic but it feels like it's my roasted diff bushings allowing my diff to rock causing the knock? I wonder how new diff bushings, motor mounts, tranny mounts would effect this. Would the more solid drivetrain transfer more shock, or would the lack of flex make things smoother because it's tight?
#261
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (6)
I put in a new transmission mount today and tested things with and without the A/T solenoid bypass. I'd say the new mount cuts the hard 2-1 downshift by about 50%. At times, it feels closer to 80%, but at other times it's almost as noticeable as before. I think the degree of the thud is dependent on a few factors such as rate of slowing and if you come to a stop around that point, as opposed to letting off the brake. The thud is going to be there regardless, as a result of the 4th solenoid not doing its thing to smooth out the downshift, but it definitely is minimized by a fresh transmission mount. I see no reason to believe new differential bushings wouldn't improve it further.
#262
I hate to be that guy.. But im pretty sure my upshift "Thud" is worse when I have the solenoid on!
I to have it on a toggle and I so far switching it on the fly doesn't seem to be having an adverse effects. I do however smell ether brakes or clutch. It could be brakes as ive been pretty hard on them since this mod Anyone else experience this?
"Comment Mostly to stay updated in thread"
I to have it on a toggle and I so far switching it on the fly doesn't seem to be having an adverse effects. I do however smell ether brakes or clutch. It could be brakes as ive been pretty hard on them since this mod Anyone else experience this?
"Comment Mostly to stay updated in thread"
#263
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
Today, I discovered that I have significantly more torque than traction in wet weather with the solenoid bypass. I accelerated moderately aggressively from a light...and went nowhere. I'm guessing that's why they added the 4th solenoid, to make the car less unpredictable with all that torque immediately available.
#264
Lexus Champion
Today, I discovered that I have significantly more torque than traction in wet weather with the solenoid bypass. I accelerated moderately aggressively from a light...and went nowhere. I'm guessing that's why they added the 4th solenoid, to make the car less unpredictable with all that torque immediately available.
#270
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Il
Posts: 3
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Sc300 starting issues right after you turn off the car
Hi y'all ,
I have been having an issue with my sc300. And the mechanic can not figure it out. Hope some one has info.
Well, I was driving on the highway, and came to a toll booth and needed the I-Pass. Well it was locked in my glove box. So I shut off the car , (due to needing the key to unlock the glove box) so any who, I go to start it up and it wouldn't start. I sat there for 5 minute with angry drivers behind me. After the 5 minutes , it started right up. Any ideas?
I have been having an issue with my sc300. And the mechanic can not figure it out. Hope some one has info.
Well, I was driving on the highway, and came to a toll booth and needed the I-Pass. Well it was locked in my glove box. So I shut off the car , (due to needing the key to unlock the glove box) so any who, I go to start it up and it wouldn't start. I sat there for 5 minute with angry drivers behind me. After the 5 minutes , it started right up. Any ideas?