Clutch pedal stiffness and doesnt return properly
#1
Lead Lap
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Clutch pedal stiffness and doesnt return properly
Basically I bought my SC300 not all that long ago and the clutch pedal is extremely firm (probably stiffer then my integra with a ACT XTSS clutch). Anyway, on top of that the pedal doesnt return to the top like it should (generally the extra spring on it pops it to the top....even if no clutch is present). Basically it returns under the pressure of the clutch, but I can then take my foot and lift it another 1/2 inch or so (its not out of adjustment either). Anyway basically it feels like the helper spring is broken but I checked and it appears fine. Maybe its binding or something. I just wanted to see if there is common problem or if anybody can help before I go ripping the entire clutch system apart.
Just to clarify:
- Clutch is in "adjustment"
- Pedal doesnt rebound properly
- Pedal is stiff
- Helper spring isnt broken
Just to clarify:
- Clutch is in "adjustment"
- Pedal doesnt rebound properly
- Pedal is stiff
- Helper spring isnt broken
#2
pressure plate? I had this same problem when I had my integra. The pedal was stiff, and finally it got to whenever I pushed in on the clutch I couldn't put it into gear. Got a new clutch/pressure plate and no more stiff pedal.
#3
Lead Lap
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No, Im almost 100% positive it is not clutch related but something in the pedal/MC thats giving me issues. Ive had several clutch setups, master and slave cylinders go bad, incorrect pedal adjustment, etc and none of them are like this.....this is like the pedal is too hanging up on something (like if I had no clutch in at all, the pedal itself wouldnt operate properly).
#5
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Originally Posted by JspecSC3
Have you tried bleeding it?
I might actually try this, but it seriously does not feel like air in the line....Im almost positive its something binding the pedal itself and wanted to know if there were any common problems with that.
#7
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If anything air in the line would make it mushy/easier to push. I realized a little earlier that my throw out bearing appears to be going out, thus its just time to rip everything apart and replace some stuff.
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#8
Originally Posted by 95 Integra
If anything air in the line would make it mushy/easier to push. I realized a little earlier that my throw out bearing appears to be going out, thus its just time to rip everything apart and replace some stuff.
i've personally never owned a car that didn't have SOME slack at the very top of the pedal
FD had 1/2" or so
most of the hondas i've owned had 1/2 to 1" of slack
xr4ti had a tiny amount of give to it at the top
etc.......
as far as it being firm, maybe it has an aftermarket clutch in it.......if you're used to the teggy's clutch then you should be able to stomp a hole through your floorboard i'm guessing......i had a clutch give out on me once because one of the springs on the hub worked it's way out and got down in between the face and the pressure plate..........this was on a crx with centerforce clutch.........pedal got stiff, then eventually it was impossible to press the pedal down at all....
#9
Lexus Champion
Yes, it appears to be the time to do a clutch. All the symptoms of pressure plate and throwout bearing. Of course, don't forget the pilot bearing in the flywheel. If you want the original feel, then go with new pressure plate, clutch plate, bearings and have the flywheel resurfaced. Inspect the release fork and replace as required. If you want to just get it back on the road, then remanufactured and aftermarket will get you by.
#10
Moving SC Threads
iTrader: (14)
i know you said the clutch is properly adjusted, but try this.
possible the clutch master is worn internally. the bore gets egg shaped,
not bad enough to leak yet. what happens the cup gets stuck in the bore
on the end where its not worn out. (the end where the rod touches the cup)
that in turn creates the extra pedal play you're describing.
to check it:
the rod where it goes into the back of the master should have very slight
tension/ pressure. if its sloppy or has up/down movement the cup isn't
pressing back on it. if there is tension, try pumping the pedal a few times.
if the rod becomes sloppy the cup is sticking. sometimes if you leave it sit
the tension will return as the cup slowly returns all the way out.
also you can try over adjusting the pedal pressure as a test. screw the rod out,
making it longer. the clutch will engauge differently, but this will conferm the sticking
theory. the pedal should fully return everytime. dont leave it overadjusted thou,
it will wear the clutch prematurely. kinda like riding around w/ your toe on the pedal
all the time.
john
possible the clutch master is worn internally. the bore gets egg shaped,
not bad enough to leak yet. what happens the cup gets stuck in the bore
on the end where its not worn out. (the end where the rod touches the cup)
that in turn creates the extra pedal play you're describing.
to check it:
the rod where it goes into the back of the master should have very slight
tension/ pressure. if its sloppy or has up/down movement the cup isn't
pressing back on it. if there is tension, try pumping the pedal a few times.
if the rod becomes sloppy the cup is sticking. sometimes if you leave it sit
the tension will return as the cup slowly returns all the way out.
also you can try over adjusting the pedal pressure as a test. screw the rod out,
making it longer. the clutch will engauge differently, but this will conferm the sticking
theory. the pedal should fully return everytime. dont leave it overadjusted thou,
it will wear the clutch prematurely. kinda like riding around w/ your toe on the pedal
all the time.
john
#12
Moving SC Threads
iTrader: (14)
for the test we were over adjusting the freeplay (too tight) to get the master
cylinder into the sweet spot where it wouldnt bind @ the top. that would allow
the pedal to fully return if the master was the problem.
i'm sure theres some freeplay spec. out there. generally 1/2" of pedal freeplay
is good. but i set it up as my base adjustment, where the rod is bearly kissing
the back of the master. very,very little pressure on the rod. then i back it off (loosen
the rod/pressure) to taste. you can slightly adjust the engaugement point w/ the rod.
closer to the floor or higher up, however you prefer. generally when your done there
will be 1/2" of freeplay.
cylinder into the sweet spot where it wouldnt bind @ the top. that would allow
the pedal to fully return if the master was the problem.
i'm sure theres some freeplay spec. out there. generally 1/2" of pedal freeplay
is good. but i set it up as my base adjustment, where the rod is bearly kissing
the back of the master. very,very little pressure on the rod. then i back it off (loosen
the rod/pressure) to taste. you can slightly adjust the engaugement point w/ the rod.
closer to the floor or higher up, however you prefer. generally when your done there
will be 1/2" of freeplay.
#13
Lead Lap
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Thanks for the help. I know there is suppose to be freeplay, but this isnt freeplay because vs coming to the top and then hitting the clutch .5-1" from there, the clutch sits .5"s lower and rides on the clutch. On the other hand, it does sound like my throwout bearing is going out, so I guess its time for a new clutch.
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