Rotor Resurfacing/How do I remove the rotors? - Club Lexus Forums


Rotor Resurfacing/How do I remove the rotors?

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Old 12-20-09, 11:19 PM   #1
MrBooby
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Default Rotor Resurfacing/How do I remove the rotors?

This is for the RX350 btw..

I've been feeling a vibration through the steering wheel during medium/hard braking, usually when I get off at an exit where I need to slow down by a lot. I've heard that it's usually caused by warped rotors. And if the steering wheel vibrates, it's the front ones that are bad. So I researched it a bit more, and I measured the rotor thickness and it seems like they're both at 28mm(26mm is the minimum), so they have plenty of life left to be machined down.

Now the problem I have is I don't know exactly how to remove brake rotors. I've changed brake pads myself and removed the brake calipers so I know how that's done. But are Toyota/Lexus rotors attached by anything? Are there any bolts/screws to remove? I looked at them closely, and it looks like they are attached to the middle part where the big axle nut is. But after reading some searches on google, it seems like they are just on there without any attachment.

Also, how much would it usually cost to resurface two rotors?
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Old 12-20-09, 11:31 PM   #2
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should be 2 screws holding it in....no more than $15 bucks from like NAPA or something.
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Old 12-20-09, 11:44 PM   #3
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usually need to remove the calipers and the bracket then like what LiCelsior said, some have 2 screws holding it in the wheel hub. If not, it might be frozen so use a rubber mallet and hit it from the back.

Yes $15 each rotor to get resurfaced at Kragen (if theres a Kragen over there)
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Old 12-21-09, 12:31 AM   #4
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How many miles are on the RX350? If its under 4 years old and under 50k miles, its under warranty. The dealer should take care of everything free of charge.

And for the record. After removing the caliper and bracket, there is nothing holding the rotor to the hub but rust. There will be 2 holes that are threaded on the hub face of the rotor. A 12mm head/10mm shaft .125 thread (pretty sure thats right) bolt can be run into the hole to push the rotor off of the hub.

Last edited by RTIS250; 12-21-09 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 12-21-09, 01:20 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTIS250 View Post
How many miles are on the RX350? If its under 4 years old and under 50k miles, its under warranty. The dealer should take care of everything free of charge.

And for the record. After removing the caliper and bracket, there is nothing holding the rotor to the hub but rust. There will be 2 holes that are threaded on the hub face of the rotor. A 12mm head/10mm shaft .125 thread (pretty sure thats right) bolt can be run into the hole to push the rotor off of the hub.
But it's not required right?
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Old 12-21-09, 01:44 AM   #6
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Nice screen name.. FTW..
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Old 12-21-09, 07:26 AM   #7
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if there are screws for the rotors, they are not needed to put back in. they are a ***** to remove. anytime i run across those screws, i usually just drill them out. they arent needed.
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Old 12-21-09, 05:21 PM   #8
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There arent screws that hold the rotor to the hub.....

There are 2 bolt holes that allow you to run a bolt into them to seperate the rotor from the hub. Use of these bolts is not required, you can simply use a rubbet mallet and pound the rotors off... The bolts just make it a ton easier.
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Old 12-21-09, 10:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXI187IXI View Post
if there are screws for the rotors, they are not needed to put back in. they are a ***** to remove. anytime i run across those screws, i usually just drill them out. they arent needed.
there is a special tool for those (no Lexus or Toyota use them)...

It looks like a center punch, but with a phillips head screw driver on the end...

hit it with a hammer/mallet and it rotates the head... works beautifully...

but, also, as you said, they aren't needed...
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Old 12-21-09, 10:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTIS250 View Post
The bolts just make it a ton easier.
That depends...

if you do brakes enough and have them sitting there waiting, with an air ratchet and the proper socket for them right in your toolbox, then yes, tons easier...

but if you don't have them waiting for you, its way easier to just hit it with a rubber mallet (or put a piece of wood up against the rotor and hit it with a hammer / mini sledge)...

I've done it both ways many times definitely prefer the bolts way, but if they aren't handy, I am way too lazy to try and find the right size bolts, especially if there is a hammer close!
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Old 12-22-09, 01:19 AM   #11
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Okay guys, thanks for the responses. Will try to do it as soon as I can find some free time. I remember there were those two holes some of you mentioned.

One more question, can I use old/used brake pads on the new/resurfaced rotors?

Last edited by MrBooby; 12-22-09 at 01:24 AM.
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Old 12-22-09, 06:45 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBooby View Post
Okay guys, thanks for the responses. Will try to do it as soon as I can find some free time. I remember there were those two holes some of you mentioned.

One more question, can I use old/used brake pads on the new/resurfaced rotors?
You can, but i wouldnt. Youre going this far, might as well spend the extra few bucks and get some new pads.

btw.. did you ever check if you're still in warranty?
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Old 12-22-09, 11:04 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTIS250 View Post
You can, but i wouldnt. Youre going this far, might as well spend the extra few bucks and get some new pads.

btw.. did you ever check if you're still in warranty?
Thing is, I recently changed the front pads so they still have a lot of life in them. I think I'm under warranty but I rather not deal with a dealership

Also, aren't rotors/pads part of the wear-n-tear, so they're not covered under warranty.
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Old 12-22-09, 04:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBooby View Post
Thing is, I recently changed the front pads so they still have a lot of life in them. I think I'm under warranty but I rather not deal with a dealership

Also, aren't rotors/pads part of the wear-n-tear, so they're not covered under warranty.
If they wear out, then its not covered.. but since you have a vibration, the repair would be covered under warranty with new pads and resurfacing the rotors.
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Old 01-01-10, 11:32 AM   #15
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Had the same problem with premature warped rotors on my wife's '00 RX300 on the front brakes a couple of times already. We lived on top of a big hill and the drive down was about 2 mi downhill and you had to use the brakes all the way, about 10 full min. The heat would warp the rotors well before the pads or rotors were worn out. My independent mechanic advised me to hold off on replacement until the steering wobble became unbearable, usually on hard braking on off ramps or long downhill stretches returning from a day of skiing. Problem went away we moved to the flatlands.
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