Any Castrol Syntec experts-german vs USA stuff !
06-22-06, 02:02 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Any Castrol Syntec experts-german vs USA stuff !
Hi
I will be switching to Castrol from Dino and want Syntec, BUT, many posts refer to GERMAN Syntec .
See link below-
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...syntec_usa.pdf
WHERE do I get German Syntec
Is the German Syntec exclusively 0-30W oil, and is the 5-30W oil the "not so good stuff" ?
For all you Mobil 1 users, my brother has a 200k mile Vanagon and has tried Mobil 1 vs Syntec and he swears it runs quieter.(as others have also stated).
So, if the German Stuff is better, why is it better. I live in California so, the cold weather issue is not important to me.
Any help appreciated.
Where do I buy it?
Thanks
I will be switching to Castrol from Dino and want Syntec, BUT, many posts refer to GERMAN Syntec .
See link below-
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...syntec_usa.pdf
WHERE do I get German Syntec
Is the German Syntec exclusively 0-30W oil, and is the 5-30W oil the "not so good stuff" ?
For all you Mobil 1 users, my brother has a 200k mile Vanagon and has tried Mobil 1 vs Syntec and he swears it runs quieter.(as others have also stated).
So, if the German Stuff is better, why is it better. I live in California so, the cold weather issue is not important to me.
Any help appreciated.
Where do I buy it?
Thanks
06-22-06, 03:23 PM
#2
German Syntec is one grade only. It is 0W-30 and is only carried in the US by Autozone. Considered to be a "thick" 30wt oil, it meets some of the strictest oil standards in Europe. It is also thought to be one of the few castrol Syntec oils made purely from GpIV and GpV base stock instead of the cheaper GpIII stock most other Syntec oils are based on. The only other exception is the BC (belgian castrol) 5W-40 grade.
Many people have run GC (German Castrol) and found the oil robust enough to go 10k miles between OCI. One should not do this until full oil sampling is done to make sure there are no other problems with the engine.
All of Syntec oils not 0W-30 (GC) and 5W-40 (BC) are allegedly GpIII hydrocracked oil and not as robust.
Many people have found the oil to be very thick. Although meeting the 0W requirements at the lowest temperatures, it has been found to be thicker than 5W-30 oils at 0F and 32F. And found to be thicker than 30wt at operating temps, more akin to a 40wt.
Lots of info at www.bobistheoilguy.com
I've been using GC for awhile now. Engine definitely ran quieter and smoother. Currently I'm doing an Auto-Rx cleaning of the engine. When its done, I plan on going back to GC.
Many people have run GC (German Castrol) and found the oil robust enough to go 10k miles between OCI. One should not do this until full oil sampling is done to make sure there are no other problems with the engine.
All of Syntec oils not 0W-30 (GC) and 5W-40 (BC) are allegedly GpIII hydrocracked oil and not as robust.
Many people have found the oil to be very thick. Although meeting the 0W requirements at the lowest temperatures, it has been found to be thicker than 5W-30 oils at 0F and 32F. And found to be thicker than 30wt at operating temps, more akin to a 40wt.
Lots of info at www.bobistheoilguy.com
I've been using GC for awhile now. Engine definitely ran quieter and smoother. Currently I'm doing an Auto-Rx cleaning of the engine. When its done, I plan on going back to GC.
06-22-06, 03:37 PM
#3
Super Moderator
That German Castrol also will not shear as much as other oils over time...one of the reasons you can run so many miles. A couple of my friends here in Mexico run this stuff and even notice some improved power, however these are small, but high powered VW Beetles and Caribes (forerunner of the Golf down here). I use a Mobil 1 0W40 in my RX300 and also notice quite bit of improvement in the power department over 5W30 and 5W50, which were my two other favorites. If Mobil 1 were not available, I would go with Syntec (we do not have Amsoil or anything better down here and readily available).
06-22-06, 04:19 PM
#4
I hope this does not become one of the oil debate thread that causes one member to flame another.
That said, I don't like thick oil for my application because flow lubricates. I don't race my RX in a high altitude like Lexmex or drive in an extremely hot environment to cause more engine heat than cooling system can disappate. Instead, I am concerned with wear at startup temperature of 20 degree C, thicker oil don't lubricate.
Take a look at Neptune Study's comment on Amsoil 5w30 thicken up to 15w40 over time. It echoes my concern for my application.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html
Another web site further confirms that if your engine does not generate excessive amount of heat, you don't need thicker or higher weight oil.
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/101.html
But if one does need thick oil for engine protection, here is a virgin oil analysis for GS 0w30, viscosity at 100 degree C is 12 cSt, that is thicker than Mobil 1 and Amsoil's 0w30 oils by ~1 cSt.
That said, I don't like thick oil for my application because flow lubricates. I don't race my RX in a high altitude like Lexmex or drive in an extremely hot environment to cause more engine heat than cooling system can disappate. Instead, I am concerned with wear at startup temperature of 20 degree C, thicker oil don't lubricate.
Take a look at Neptune Study's comment on Amsoil 5w30 thicken up to 15w40 over time. It echoes my concern for my application.
If thicker is better, then why don't we fill swimming pools with quicksand?
Another web site further confirms that if your engine does not generate excessive amount of heat, you don't need thicker or higher weight oil.
More confusion occurs because people think in terms of the oil thinning when it gets hot. They think this thinning with heat is the problem with motor oil. It would be more correct to think that oil thickens when it cools to room temperature and THIS is the problem. In fact this is the problem. It is said that 90 percent of engine wear occurs at startup. If we are interested in engine longevity then we should concentrate our attention at reducing engine wear at startup
But if one does need thick oil for engine protection, here is a virgin oil analysis for GS 0w30, viscosity at 100 degree C is 12 cSt, that is thicker than Mobil 1 and Amsoil's 0w30 oils by ~1 cSt.
06-23-06, 12:05 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Why would only Autozone be allowed to sell this oil?
Well,
I am assuming that I can run 0-30W in my vehicle, despite the recommendations to go with 5-30W.
Anyone know why only Autozone carries this grade?
I am assuming that I can run 0-30W in my vehicle, despite the recommendations to go with 5-30W.
Anyone know why only Autozone carries this grade?
06-24-06, 07:47 AM
#6
Don't know why AZ is the only carrier. Thicker is not always better, but does protect better at higher temps. This is negated by the fact that thinner oils are able to circulate through the system faster on startup. Hence multigrade oils. Some people with weaker 4 banger engines have admitted to sluggish performance once switching to GC (granted the manufacturer recommended 5W-20 in their applications). I honestly don't think 0W-30 GC will flow any worse than say a 5W-30 oil. I actually consider for normal temps (32F-100F) GC behaves more like a very robust 5W-40 oil which I actually prefer for my car. A very good oil I would consider is Red Line multigrade oil if you feel GC is too thick.
01-25-07, 08:56 PM
#7
Things have changed quickly, Exxon Mobil has quietly substituting Group IV PAO base oil with cheaper Group III in late 2006,. This topic is now being discussed in BITOG. I still like my stash of pre-Group III Mobil 1 0w-20 and 5w-20 for winter months but German Castrol 0w-30 gets the nod for summer usage.
Group III "synthetic" oil are now the norm: Pennzoil Platinum, Amsoil XL oils, Most Castrol Syntec, now Mobil 1.
Picked up three cases at local Autozone, I am stocking them up before no OTC oil is a true synthetic. After current Auto-RX treatment of my 1mz-fe, I will use only group IV true synthetic for maximum oxidation protection for this sludge prone engine.
Group III "synthetic" oil are now the norm: Pennzoil Platinum, Amsoil XL oils, Most Castrol Syntec, now Mobil 1.
Picked up three cases at local Autozone, I am stocking them up before no OTC oil is a true synthetic. After current Auto-RX treatment of my 1mz-fe, I will use only group IV true synthetic for maximum oxidation protection for this sludge prone engine.
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01-26-07, 08:15 PM
#8
Use the cheapest API SM, GF-4 5w20 or 5w30 and change every 5,000 miles or 6 months and your engine will last over 200,000 miles. The gap between Group II(conventional) and Group III oils are getting narrower and narrower. I personally prefer Havoline/Chevron because i am a molybdnum(friction modifier/anti-wear agent)fan and both have a good sized amount. You'll never see the temps that make synthetics better.
If you want to go with Castrol, I would use the GTX even though its heavier, it'll protect more than adequately. If you want to feel all fuzzy and warm, use the syntec 5-30. Uh-oh, here comes the syn vs conventional debate!!!!
If you want to go with Castrol, I would use the GTX even though its heavier, it'll protect more than adequately. If you want to feel all fuzzy and warm, use the syntec 5-30. Uh-oh, here comes the syn vs conventional debate!!!!
01-26-07, 08:45 PM
#9
The reasons why people have a loyal following of German Castrol 0w-30 is because it is a true synthetic, as in chemically engineered in a lab. Mobil has marketed Mobil 1 as superior oil over competitors such as Castrol because M1 were Group IV oil, until recently...
Group III is dino oil technically, it is refined from petroleum crude oil just like Group II. Group III is marketed as synthetic, but base stock makes up about 85% of the final oil. Does engine really can tell the difference? Most don't because Group III + superior additive package is good enough. For the oil chewing 1mz-fe, yes.
Here are definitions of base oil groups.
Group III is dino oil technically, it is refined from petroleum crude oil just like Group II. Group III is marketed as synthetic, but base stock makes up about 85% of the final oil. Does engine really can tell the difference? Most don't because Group III + superior additive package is good enough. For the oil chewing 1mz-fe, yes.
Here are definitions of base oil groups.
Group I Solvent Freezing Group I base oils are the least refined of all of the groups. They are usually a mix of different hydrocarbon chains with little or no uniformity. While some automotive oils on the market use Group I stocks, they are generally used in less demanding applications.
Group II Hydroprocessing and Refining Group II base oils are common in mineral-based motor oils currently available on the market. They have fair to good performance in lubricating properties such as volatility, oxidative stability and flash/fire points. They have only fair performance in areas such as pour point, cold crank viscosity and extreme pressure wear.
Group III Hydroprocessing and Refining Group III base oils are subjected to the highest level of mineral oil refining of the base oil groups. Although they are not chemically engineered, they offer good performance in a wide range of attributes as well as good molecular uniformity and stability. They are commonly mixed with additives and marketed as synthetic or semi-synthetic products. Group III base oil products have become more common in America during the past decade.
Group IV Chemical Reactions Group IV base oils are chemically engineered synthetic base stocks. Polyalphaolefins (PAOs) are a common example of a synthetic base stock. Synthetics, when combined with additives, offer excellent performance over a wide range of lubricating properties. They have very stable chemical compositions and highly uniform molecular chains. Group IV base oils are becoming more common in synthetic and synthetic-blend products for automotive and industrial applications.
Group V As Indicated Group V base oils are used primarily in the creation of oil additives. Esters and polyolesters are both common Group V base oils used in the formulation of oil additives. Group V oils exhibit a wide variety of properties specific to each individual oil's formulation. Group V base oils are generally not used as base oils themselves, but add beneficial properties to other base oils.
Group II Hydroprocessing and Refining Group II base oils are common in mineral-based motor oils currently available on the market. They have fair to good performance in lubricating properties such as volatility, oxidative stability and flash/fire points. They have only fair performance in areas such as pour point, cold crank viscosity and extreme pressure wear.
Group III Hydroprocessing and Refining Group III base oils are subjected to the highest level of mineral oil refining of the base oil groups. Although they are not chemically engineered, they offer good performance in a wide range of attributes as well as good molecular uniformity and stability. They are commonly mixed with additives and marketed as synthetic or semi-synthetic products. Group III base oil products have become more common in America during the past decade.
Group IV Chemical Reactions Group IV base oils are chemically engineered synthetic base stocks. Polyalphaolefins (PAOs) are a common example of a synthetic base stock. Synthetics, when combined with additives, offer excellent performance over a wide range of lubricating properties. They have very stable chemical compositions and highly uniform molecular chains. Group IV base oils are becoming more common in synthetic and synthetic-blend products for automotive and industrial applications.
Group V As Indicated Group V base oils are used primarily in the creation of oil additives. Esters and polyolesters are both common Group V base oils used in the formulation of oil additives. Group V oils exhibit a wide variety of properties specific to each individual oil's formulation. Group V base oils are generally not used as base oils themselves, but add beneficial properties to other base oils.
Last edited by TunedRX300; 01-26-07 at 08:48 PM.
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