03 Roof Drip Molding peeling
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
03 Roof Drip Molding peeling
I have an 03 LS 430 and my roof drip molding (what FSM calls it) is peeling away from the plastic. This is the piece that runs down the sides of the top of the car. I priced out the new pieces and they are around 200 retail and 130 each from Sewell with our discount. They come color matched. The clips that hold down the molding are not supposed to be reused. I priced them out and with the discount, they are 50 dollars. Retail is over 65. I really am not excited about spending over 300 for something that is purely cosmetic so...
I have decided to pull off the trim pieces and see if I can glue back down the peeling painted surface. I thought something like model glue would do the trick. Does anyone else have any suggestions?
I figure it can't hurt to give it a try and see if I can't make it look half decent. Otherwise, I will be purchasing the new ones.
I have decided to pull off the trim pieces and see if I can glue back down the peeling painted surface. I thought something like model glue would do the trick. Does anyone else have any suggestions?
I figure it can't hurt to give it a try and see if I can't make it look half decent. Otherwise, I will be purchasing the new ones.
Last edited by smm3; 07-19-12 at 01:12 PM. Reason: added information
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02430 (12-08-17)
#2
Pole Position
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I had the same thing happen to my gs300.
I too didn't want to spend a butt load of money so I peeled up the paint, and bought some high quality adhesive vinyl. It's been about a year and it has been holding up just fine in the texas sun. Of course it is not color matched precisely, but for a couple of bucks I can live with it.
I too didn't want to spend a butt load of money so I peeled up the paint, and bought some high quality adhesive vinyl. It's been about a year and it has been holding up just fine in the texas sun. Of course it is not color matched precisely, but for a couple of bucks I can live with it.
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02430 (12-08-17)
#4
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I had the same thing happen to my gs300.
I too didn't want to spend a butt load of money so I peeled up the paint, and bought some high quality adhesive vinyl. It's been about a year and it has been holding up just fine in the texas sun. Of course it is not color matched precisely, but for a couple of bucks I can live with it.
I too didn't want to spend a butt load of money so I peeled up the paint, and bought some high quality adhesive vinyl. It's been about a year and it has been holding up just fine in the texas sun. Of course it is not color matched precisely, but for a couple of bucks I can live with it.
#5
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
There are a couple of different clips for each side though so if you are changing the forward most clip, make sure you order the correct one. I have attached the parts diagram showing which clips are used in which location. I hope that helps.
I plan on just pulling the molding off and working on it when I get a chance. It looks like the sun is making it worse every day. I went by my local Lexus dealer and they said it would not leak if I left the molding off for a little while. They did say it could cause more wind noise though. I will take that chance.
Still open to suggestions as to an adhesive that would work without eating up the plastic molding or the painted surface. it appears like it could be vinyl.
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KING (06-04-17)
#6
I have re-attached moldings to an ACURA we had using E-6000 glue and it stayed tight about 6 years and was still tight when we just sold it.
It was recommended by a man that has his own body shop near us.
It is like silicon but is much more an industrial adhesive. Apply it and put weight on it and it will be there for quite a while.
It was recommended by a man that has his own body shop near us.
It is like silicon but is much more an industrial adhesive. Apply it and put weight on it and it will be there for quite a while.
#7
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I have re-attached moldings to an ACURA we had using E-6000 glue and it stayed tight about 6 years and was still tight when we just sold it.
It was recommended by a man that has his own body shop near us.
It is like silicon but is much more an industrial adhesive. Apply it and put weight on it and it will be there for quite a while.
It was recommended by a man that has his own body shop near us.
It is like silicon but is much more an industrial adhesive. Apply it and put weight on it and it will be there for quite a while.
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#9
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
molding removed
Well I decided to remove the molding to start the process of attempting to fix the peeling paint film. When I pulled off the molding, the clips remained in place. It was very easy to remove the molding. I think I am just going to leave them in and attempt to reuse them.
I haven't quite decided yet what kind of glue or adhesive I am going to use. Think it is going to be some sort of fairly strong cement.
I haven't quite decided yet what kind of glue or adhesive I am going to use. Think it is going to be some sort of fairly strong cement.
#13
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I too need to replace the two roof panel trim pieces due to the plastic film peeling. I have read all of the posts in this thread and some reference adhsive tape and use of glue. To me the pictures only show 5 plastic or maybe metal mounting clips per molding that mechanically attach the clip to the roof panel. I already have a set of plastic trim removal tools. So my question is.............does anyone have access to the shop manual that shows how theses clips release the moldings and where to insert the plastic trim tools? Im guessing that the trim tool needs to be vertically inserted at each clip location on the outter most side of the molding? Would like to know for sure before i experiment around the painted surfaces. Thanks
#14
My question is how did you remove it. Im left with vague results that you need tools to pop the trim off, but are they any screws or any special things to note or to look out for when removing the trim piece on the roof?