UL stock air suspension to steel springs conversion infos
#1
UL stock air suspension to steel springs conversion infos
As many of you already knows, the 2 rear air struts on my UL failed, I have decided to convert my car to conventional steel springs. Many UL owners have shown interest in this conversion to avoid keep paying the very high price of the air struts, so I want to start this thread to share all the infos I found and document the whole process.
Today, I think I stumbled, solved the biggest question of the conversion, how to shut off the air suspension computer without triggering an error message from the main computer.
The main objective is to shut off the air compressor, since we don't want it to keep pumping air if the height sensors tells the computer the car is sitting too low.
I found 2 air suspension fuses and 1 air suspension relay, all I did was pulled the fuse to the air compressor. That disabled the air compressor, and to my pleasant surprise, that didn't trigger any error message or code or blinking light
How do I know I disabled the air compressor? The car doesn't go up when I press the "high" button, the "height Hi" message still came on in the cluster, but the air compressor didn't come on.
So that was it, that is all I care to disable. The air suspension computer can think whatever it want to think, I don't think that does any harm. Not that I can think of anyway, if you guys can think of anything, please let me know!
Now I am off to check out how to remove the rear power seats to get to the top struts mounting nuts.
Today, I think I stumbled, solved the biggest question of the conversion, how to shut off the air suspension computer without triggering an error message from the main computer.
The main objective is to shut off the air compressor, since we don't want it to keep pumping air if the height sensors tells the computer the car is sitting too low.
I found 2 air suspension fuses and 1 air suspension relay, all I did was pulled the fuse to the air compressor. That disabled the air compressor, and to my pleasant surprise, that didn't trigger any error message or code or blinking light
How do I know I disabled the air compressor? The car doesn't go up when I press the "high" button, the "height Hi" message still came on in the cluster, but the air compressor didn't come on.
So that was it, that is all I care to disable. The air suspension computer can think whatever it want to think, I don't think that does any harm. Not that I can think of anyway, if you guys can think of anything, please let me know!
Now I am off to check out how to remove the rear power seats to get to the top struts mounting nuts.
Last edited by BNR34; 06-11-09 at 09:42 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Marston (05-21-18)
#6
I will document it and show pics when I can.
I removed the rear power seats now, it is a lot easier then I thought. The rear cushions basically just sit on a metal frame that move by electric motors. So the cushions are mounted just like any non-power fixed seats, you simply pull up on the lower cushions and unbolt the seat back.
I confirmed you have to remove the rear seats to get to the top strut's mounting nut, you can't get to those nuts from the trunk.
The issue I am facing now, is how to remove the C-pillars interior panel, they are mounted so well, it is hard to pull off, and I don't want to break anything. You have to remove these panels and the rear shelf in order to get to the strut top's nuts. I am gonna seek professional help on how to remove the panels.
I'll report back.
I removed the rear power seats now, it is a lot easier then I thought. The rear cushions basically just sit on a metal frame that move by electric motors. So the cushions are mounted just like any non-power fixed seats, you simply pull up on the lower cushions and unbolt the seat back.
I confirmed you have to remove the rear seats to get to the top strut's mounting nut, you can't get to those nuts from the trunk.
The issue I am facing now, is how to remove the C-pillars interior panel, they are mounted so well, it is hard to pull off, and I don't want to break anything. You have to remove these panels and the rear shelf in order to get to the strut top's nuts. I am gonna seek professional help on how to remove the panels.
I'll report back.
#7
I pretty much decided to run the OEM sport struts with Tanabe NF210 spring and see how it look. If it is not low enough, I'll add the You Zealand SS kit.
Then I can put the OEM sport suspension emblem on the side of the car! haha.....just a thought, I don't want to add any emblem to the car. It would confuse the real LS430 enthusiast though, a UL with sport suspension. If anyone would ever notice
Trending Topics
#8
I sure will post pics when I am done.
I pretty much decided to run the OEM sport struts with Tanabe NF210 spring and see how it look. If it is not low enough, I'll add the You Zealand SS kit.
Then I can put the OEM sport suspension emblem on the side of the car! haha.....just a thought, I don't want to add any emblem to the car. It would confuse the real LS430 enthusiast though, a UL with sport suspension. If anyone would ever notice
I pretty much decided to run the OEM sport struts with Tanabe NF210 spring and see how it look. If it is not low enough, I'll add the You Zealand SS kit.
Then I can put the OEM sport suspension emblem on the side of the car! haha.....just a thought, I don't want to add any emblem to the car. It would confuse the real LS430 enthusiast though, a UL with sport suspension. If anyone would ever notice
So, the blue print is:
1. OEM sport struts = kyb gr2
2. Tanabe NF springs
3. You Zealand SS kit
save your money from the emblem and see if you can get the sport sway bar (only the rear) that the SPORT EDITION use-TRD branded.
Hmmm, just checked Carson's site and the sways aren't listed. They only have Tom's and TRD lower bracings and the 6 links.
http://www.l-tunedparts.com/model/st...=7&model_id=94
Of course we're not turning this into a race car or anything, just some extra components to reduce body sway.
I looked up stabilizer bar and this one is "With sport package"
I'm wondering if it's different-thicker, heavier... than non sport package
It's a $5 difference though.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0
If it is, I would love to change this out-I might have to look into this further
There's no price difference and model distinction for the front ($123)
Last edited by GS3Tek; 03-26-09 at 10:45 AM. Reason: forgot link
#9
I am just trying to help by sharing my findings
How do you know that? Do you have prove? If it is, the KYB GR2 is cheaper. Please let me know. My feeling is the GR2 is softer like the regular struts, the sport struts are quite a bit firmer. I want the firmer strut.
I was just kidding about the emblem.
I want to reduce body sway too.
Yes, that is the thicker rear sway bar from the OEM sport suspension. I looked into this already, it bolt onto our UL, the only thing extra is you have to buy the sway bushings that got a bigger inner diameter for the bigger sway bar.
The front bar is the same, only the rear is bigger on the sport.
I am planning to do bigger sway bar, depends on how the car drive with the sport shocks and NF210. That alone already add quite a bit of stiffness, so if the body roll is already acceptable, I will just do the OEM sport rear sway since it is much cheaper. If I feel like I want more roll stiffness, I'll get the quite a bit bigger front and rear sway bars from TRD Japan.
How do you know that? Do you have prove? If it is, the KYB GR2 is cheaper. Please let me know. My feeling is the GR2 is softer like the regular struts, the sport struts are quite a bit firmer. I want the firmer strut.
I was just kidding about the emblem.
and see if you can get the sport sway bar (only the rear) that the SPORT EDITION use-TRD branded.
Hmmm, just checked Carson's site and the sways aren't listed. They only have Tom's and TRD lower bracings and the 6 links.
http://www.l-tunedparts.com/model/st...=7&model_id=94
Of course we're not turning this into a race car or anything, just some extra components to reduce body sway.
Hmmm, just checked Carson's site and the sways aren't listed. They only have Tom's and TRD lower bracings and the 6 links.
http://www.l-tunedparts.com/model/st...=7&model_id=94
Of course we're not turning this into a race car or anything, just some extra components to reduce body sway.
The front bar is the same, only the rear is bigger on the sport.
I am planning to do bigger sway bar, depends on how the car drive with the sport shocks and NF210. That alone already add quite a bit of stiffness, so if the body roll is already acceptable, I will just do the OEM sport rear sway since it is much cheaper. If I feel like I want more roll stiffness, I'll get the quite a bit bigger front and rear sway bars from TRD Japan.
Last edited by BNR34; 03-26-09 at 09:30 AM.
#10
Yes, that is the thicker rear sway bar from the OEM sport suspension. I looked into this already, it bolt onto our UL, the only thing extra is you have to buy the sway bushings that got a bigger inner diameter for the bigger sway bar.
The front bar is the same, only the rear is bigger on the sport.
The front bar is the same, only the rear is bigger on the sport.
I remembered it was branded TRD
I am planning to do bigger sway bar, depends on how the car drive with the sport shocks and NF210. That alone already add quite a bit of stiffness, so if the body roll is already acceptable, I will just do the OEM sport rear sway since it is much cheaper. If I feel like I want more roll stiffness, I'll get the quite a bit bigger front and rear sway bars from TRD Japan.
The biggest difference will be the sway bars.
How much are those TRD from Japan?
Back in the GS arena, the TRDs were too stiff thus for comfort, everyone opted for the Daizen sways ( which I got and love also).
#11
I don't think TRD have anything to do with the OEM sport suspension.
80,000 JPY
http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_sportivo.html
Yes I am guessing the TRD would be too stiff also, that is why I want to wait until I get the sport suspension in before I decide which sway bars I want. I am pretty sure the sport suspension along with the OEM rear sport sway bar is perfect. Since I remembered all the stock sport suspension LS430 I drove are planty stiff, sporty for me.
Last edited by BNR34; 03-26-09 at 10:18 AM.
#12
Yes I am guessing the TRD would be too stiff also, that is why I want to wait until I get the sport suspension in before I decide which sway bars I want. I am pretty sure the sport suspension along with the OEM rear sport sway bar is perfect. Since I remembered all the stock sport suspension LS430 I drove are planty stiff, sporty for me.
I'm definitely interested in picking this one up...by far the cheapest suspension mod
#13
Most likely.
Sure is the cheapest. TRD is the only company who make a bigger sway bars for the LS430, and by the time you add shipping and all assoicated cost to get it from Japan, it would be at least $1000. And like you said, I don't think the LS430 need anything more then the OEM rear sport sway.
Sure is the cheapest. TRD is the only company who make a bigger sway bars for the LS430, and by the time you add shipping and all assoicated cost to get it from Japan, it would be at least $1000. And like you said, I don't think the LS430 need anything more then the OEM rear sport sway.