Center console lid fix
09-11-12, 01:04 PM
#32
If we can help guys, try this:
2001-2003 LS430: http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accesso...or/-/5732.html
2004-2006 LS430: http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accesso...or/-/5733.html
Use promo code 'chemtj' for $30 off the already discount price.
Darrel
2001-2003 LS430: http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accesso...or/-/5732.html
2004-2006 LS430: http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accesso...or/-/5733.html
Use promo code 'chemtj' for $30 off the already discount price.
Darrel
09-11-12, 07:43 PM
#34
Driver School Candidate
Thanks Sewell. I'll be taking you up on that in a few days. I am working on an order to include the lid and several other parts I need. You guys have been most helpful with parts orders and information.
09-20-12, 04:26 PM
#35
Driver School Candidate
Just completed mine with new lid from Sewell. I used some #6 star lock washers on the screws. Works perfectly now. I hope with the lock washers that I never have to do this again.
10-11-12, 02:43 PM
#36
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I just repaired mine following your excellent instructions. Three screws loose one holding it all together.
I tightened them up with a little rubber cement and now it works like new.
Thank you for the help.
I tightened them up with a little rubber cement and now it works like new.
Thank you for the help.
10-14-12, 11:59 AM
#37
Did this repair today and wanted to add my $.02 to hopefully help the next person.
After you remove the 6 10mm bolts and the one phillips screw holding the box in the box itself may not seem to want to move. Mine was VERY tight! There are a couple of clips holding the box in and you will have to wiggle it while pulling up. Mine was tight enough I went back to the computer and this post to make sure I hadn't missed anything before I applied more upward pressure. It will come, just needs a stern "talking to".
The wiring connectors are in front of the box. You don't need to be in the back seat to make this work. Once the box is loose you can push it rearwards to see the connectors. You won't be able to get your hand in the front to disconnect the plugs, but this "look" will give you a good idea of the plug location as well as the location of the release tabs on the plugs. Once you get a good idea where they are tilt the box forewards as much as possible (this is when it's a good idea to cover the console) and undo the two plugs by reaching in under the box from the back. If you power the seat all the way back and almost fully reclined you'll have plenty of room!
On the bottom side of the console lid, make sure you remove EVERY little black phillips screw you see including the one holding the black plastic latch AND the one underneath it! Don't miss any or the cover won't separate. I used a door panel tool to get the lid to separate from the black plastic housing, The fit was snug!
You will need either an offset phillips screwdirver or a stubby phillips for the gold colored screws that have come loose. There's NO WAY to get a standard length phillips on these screws unless you want to risk stripping them. I used a stubby #2 and it fit and worked very well.
Hope this helps someone and thanks for the original writeup. I love the fact that my console lid now locks and releases like it's supposed to!
After you remove the 6 10mm bolts and the one phillips screw holding the box in the box itself may not seem to want to move. Mine was VERY tight! There are a couple of clips holding the box in and you will have to wiggle it while pulling up. Mine was tight enough I went back to the computer and this post to make sure I hadn't missed anything before I applied more upward pressure. It will come, just needs a stern "talking to".
The wiring connectors are in front of the box. You don't need to be in the back seat to make this work. Once the box is loose you can push it rearwards to see the connectors. You won't be able to get your hand in the front to disconnect the plugs, but this "look" will give you a good idea of the plug location as well as the location of the release tabs on the plugs. Once you get a good idea where they are tilt the box forewards as much as possible (this is when it's a good idea to cover the console) and undo the two plugs by reaching in under the box from the back. If you power the seat all the way back and almost fully reclined you'll have plenty of room!
On the bottom side of the console lid, make sure you remove EVERY little black phillips screw you see including the one holding the black plastic latch AND the one underneath it! Don't miss any or the cover won't separate. I used a door panel tool to get the lid to separate from the black plastic housing, The fit was snug!
You will need either an offset phillips screwdirver or a stubby phillips for the gold colored screws that have come loose. There's NO WAY to get a standard length phillips on these screws unless you want to risk stripping them. I used a stubby #2 and it fit and worked very well.
Hope this helps someone and thanks for the original writeup. I love the fact that my console lid now locks and releases like it's supposed to!
Last edited by tahiles; 10-14-12 at 12:04 PM.
The following users liked this post:
LSGarry (04-30-18)
10-15-12, 08:09 PM
#40
Did this repair today and wanted to add my $.02 to hopefully help the next person.
After you remove the 6 10mm bolts and the one phillips screw holding the box in the box itself may not seem to want to move. Mine was VERY tight! There are a couple of clips holding the box in and you will have to wiggle it while pulling up. Mine was tight enough I went back to the computer and this post to make sure I hadn't missed anything before I applied more upward pressure. It will come, just needs a stern "talking to".
The wiring connectors are in front of the box. You don't need to be in the back seat to make this work. Once the box is loose you can push it rearwards to see the connectors. You won't be able to get your hand in the front to disconnect the plugs, but this "look" will give you a good idea of the plug location as well as the location of the release tabs on the plugs. Once you get a good idea where they are tilt the box forewards as much as possible (this is when it's a good idea to cover the console) and undo the two plugs by reaching in under the box from the back. If you power the seat all the way back and almost fully reclined you'll have plenty of room!
On the bottom side of the console lid, make sure you remove EVERY little black phillips screw you see including the one holding the black plastic latch AND the one underneath it! Don't miss any or the cover won't separate. I used a door panel tool to get the lid to separate from the black plastic housing, The fit was snug!
You will need either an offset phillips screwdirver or a stubby phillips for the gold colored screws that have come loose. There's NO WAY to get a standard length phillips on these screws unless you want to risk stripping them. I used a stubby #2 and it fit and worked very well.
Hope this helps someone and thanks for the original writeup. I love the fact that my console lid now locks and releases like it's supposed to!
After you remove the 6 10mm bolts and the one phillips screw holding the box in the box itself may not seem to want to move. Mine was VERY tight! There are a couple of clips holding the box in and you will have to wiggle it while pulling up. Mine was tight enough I went back to the computer and this post to make sure I hadn't missed anything before I applied more upward pressure. It will come, just needs a stern "talking to".
The wiring connectors are in front of the box. You don't need to be in the back seat to make this work. Once the box is loose you can push it rearwards to see the connectors. You won't be able to get your hand in the front to disconnect the plugs, but this "look" will give you a good idea of the plug location as well as the location of the release tabs on the plugs. Once you get a good idea where they are tilt the box forewards as much as possible (this is when it's a good idea to cover the console) and undo the two plugs by reaching in under the box from the back. If you power the seat all the way back and almost fully reclined you'll have plenty of room!
On the bottom side of the console lid, make sure you remove EVERY little black phillips screw you see including the one holding the black plastic latch AND the one underneath it! Don't miss any or the cover won't separate. I used a door panel tool to get the lid to separate from the black plastic housing, The fit was snug!
You will need either an offset phillips screwdirver or a stubby phillips for the gold colored screws that have come loose. There's NO WAY to get a standard length phillips on these screws unless you want to risk stripping them. I used a stubby #2 and it fit and worked very well.
Hope this helps someone and thanks for the original writeup. I love the fact that my console lid now locks and releases like it's supposed to!
Would you mind describing these clips that hold it in after you remove all of the bolts? Also, where the 12v outlet goes at the front of the box, does that need to be removed before the "inner" box comes out?
I just put it all back together and am living with it for the time being. I just know sometimes on these online DIY threads, a well meaning person can forget a detail.
Thanks for the help
10-16-12, 08:44 AM
#41
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The 12 volt outlet doesn't need to come out.
The two clips are at the front near the top. Mine took a lot of wriggling before it started to come out.
I used the lid as a lever wriggling it side to side and then the rear came up and the front followed.
The two clips won't keep it in although you better line them up as you re-seat when you are finished.
Also, don't let the wires that go to the rear of the console get under it when you are re-inserting the box.
I did that and they wouldn't let me re-insert the box.
I finally pulled it back up and saw the wires had slipped from the holder on the passenger side and were under the box.
After I put them back through the holder all was fine.
The two clips are at the front near the top. Mine took a lot of wriggling before it started to come out.
I used the lid as a lever wriggling it side to side and then the rear came up and the front followed.
The two clips won't keep it in although you better line them up as you re-seat when you are finished.
Also, don't let the wires that go to the rear of the console get under it when you are re-inserting the box.
I did that and they wouldn't let me re-insert the box.
I finally pulled it back up and saw the wires had slipped from the holder on the passenger side and were under the box.
After I put them back through the holder all was fine.
03-31-13, 12:34 PM
#45
Great thread......I was having the same problem the rest were having (i.e., center console would only open up if I pushed it forward while unlatching). Thx to this thread, I now have a center console that functions as it should.
Two of the bolts were completely out and the other two were loose. I reassembled with #10 lock washers on these bolts as an attempt to not have to reperform this procedure in the future. Thx to OP and all who had great advice on this center console repair.
Two of the bolts were completely out and the other two were loose. I reassembled with #10 lock washers on these bolts as an attempt to not have to reperform this procedure in the future. Thx to OP and all who had great advice on this center console repair.