dubsta1

my ml sub was coming apart & i used the glue method but it couldn't handle the lows and started to rattle again. so i went to the Jl sub it comparable to the paper ml woofer.

tbilisi79

Just spoke to a Crutchfield agent.
He said that w3v is not a infinite baffle woofer. And it would not work too good, to its fullest potential in a stock woofer location. It would not bebetter than the 2 10''setup I got in the trunk now.

But like said, I doubt the JL woofer will be worse than the ML.

haulin79

Since ML does not make speakers for their home product line, the ML speakers are likely good to decent Harman drivers...nothing really special.

I would bet a Polk or JL sub is more accurate than the ML sub.

xsuperjoex

Good grief....glue?

Come on guys...that glue is not going to hold up for years like a new sub will. It's only $80 and about an hour worth of your time.

Apparently the directions were good/vague enough for a bunch of other people to be able to do the work themselves...and kudos to you guys for doing it the right way instead of a band-aid. Now at the time that 4 ohm sub was all I could find...I wasn't looking for crazy bass I just wanted something as good as the stock sub. And it sounded better than the paper farting noise that that ML sub was making.

I'm sorry for not spending 4 hours detailing my instructions for only 1 hour worth of work. If you know who I am on this board then you would know that I always gave enough instructions for people to learn a little while they are doing the DIY. My purpose was to take the fear out of taking apart a $50,000 car...it's only nuts and bolts.

Mind you I'm not trying to start a fight or offend anyone...I just want you to realize that just because other people can't see the glue because the grill is back on....doesn't mean you won't dream about it breaking the seal...something like that would haunt me.

But heck what do I know. Good luck guys...

mikepae

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone added an amp and subs through a line output converter?


My replacement JL finally blew and i'm planning on removing the 8" and adding an aftermarket amp and subs in their own box. i want to know which high level lead i splice my line output converter into. should i use the subwoofer lead? i have the stinger adjustable loc and it says it can take a high level input signal up to only 35w. Does anyone know the specs of the factory ml amps output? Thanks

Cape Cod

I personally love JL, but there are others out there that are great as well. Different manufactures have different sounds. JL has great lows. Back in the day Rockford Punch series was the **** for hard hitting base. My brother just told me the company "Rockford" went to crap. We used to put both in our cars to get all levels.

I agree with a lot of the posts that recommend an amp. It's like having a four cylinder pushing an LS, the car may look good and move but that's it. As well don't get a cheep amp that says it provides an amount of power that it never could. A JL amp will push it the way it's meant to sound and for an 8" it is relatively inexpensive.

As far as going bigger, you'd be amazed at what a competition 8" sub is capable of when powered right. Try the amp first.

I'm not an installer nor do I claim to know all about stereos, I'm only speaking from my personal experiences.

BK LS430

when replacing the amp, is it as simple as the woofer replacement? just buy a new one and connect it? wiring is simple? by the way where is the amp in the ls? Thank you for any help.

Cape Cod

I'll be doing mine in a week or two, I'll let you know if no one has already.

BK LS430

thanks cape cod, i am anxiously waiting. what amp are you going with?

BK LS430

Problem: when i first heard my sibwoofer "farting" I disconnected it from the harness (for this all i did was lift the cover a bit and the plug popped right out). Now that im using mikes advice to fix it (the silicone) I cant quite reconnect the sub since I cant get under the dash (much harder to reconnect then to disconnect). Can some one please tell me how to get to my sub with some working space? I will try to remove the third light tommorow and maybe that will give me some more space, but what if its still not enough?

BK LS430

Just used the silicone to fix my woofer today, it works good. If it rips again then I will buy a new woofer, for now the silicone is a great idea, really did the trick!

Thanks mikemareen.

mikemareen

ya it kinda be kind of difficult getting under that card board carpet cover.

from what I remember, you first sit the sub first onto the baffle (original position) and after that you can start on connecting the connector.

it's a tight spot so it's best to get the sub into the hole first to free up some space. I had to take extra caution so that the card board carpet does not tear.

mikemareen

no problem! glad I helped.

It should last a good while, I don't see how the silicon glue can be any worse than the original foam surrounding attachment.

BK LS430

Question, do you happen to have aftermarket rims on your LS? for some reason ive been asking all LS driving members and even lexus owners on this site in general about rim specs (off set , tire size, etc) and for some reason people are not to responsive to my constant ad's. You would think someone would share with you on this site, go figure.

P.s. before everyone starts complaining that this is not a RIM thread, relax. lol

mikepae

iTrader: (1)

i swapped out my blown ml sub for the 8" jl a while ago after reading this thread. the jl blew after about a year so instead of replacing it with another 8", i went ahead and invested in a line output converter, amp, and sub in its own enclosure to install myself. wiring the amp took longer than i am used to, but i couldn't be happier with the results.

an inexpensive way to acheive rewarding bass:
-stinger saloc
-alpine mrd-m500 mono 500x1 @ 2ohms
-alpine type-r 12" dual 4ohm vc in parallel
-0.85 cu ft sealed enclosure
-4ga kit

this setup costed me less than $200!