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92 LS400 ECU and Starting issue

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Old 04-13-15, 10:34 PM
  #31  
dicer
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Is it fixed? If so let us know what the problem was.
Old 04-13-15, 10:54 PM
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DeZyn243
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Not yet.
I didn't have a chance to tackle n e thing today. (Work)
But I did pick up two igniters, a fuel pump n I'm waiting on another ECU to come in.
It shuld be here tomorrow.
Old 04-14-15, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DeZyn243
That's why I was originally lost.
The first thing I did when car stopped running was checked my fuses n relays.
I have a brand new EFI relay I just brought Friday.
It tests just fine.
Because my fuses n relays were up to specs I started looking at the ECU a couple of days ago because it was not testing within specs.
I paid for two so far and they both don't test within specs either.
The readings I just posted from the ECU are the same on my original and the the two replacements.
That's why I was lost and originally started the thread asking for help cause I new the ECU's were faulty.
I'm going to go buy another one tomorrow and see how that works out.
So you already have confirmed that both relays and fuses were OK. But the fuel pump doesn't work. Judging from those, the circuit opening relay may be inhibiting the pump to work.

When the ECU detects some dangerous situation, it disables the DC supply to the pump keeping the contacts of the circuit opening relay open. This can be confirmed checking the voltage between pin 2 and 1 of the relay.

You can force to work the fuel pump bypassing the relay shorting pin 5 and 3 at your own risk. But this may cause some serious problem. I just would try it for very short time to check the engine starts or not. The real trouble shooting starts after this.
Old 04-14-15, 01:30 PM
  #34  
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Its nice to have the spare parts, but is not the way to fix the problem. Did you check that Batt terminal?
Its more likely a corroded or bad connection deal or possible relay. Did you do the igniter test? How about the ecu test Yamae says to do?
Old 04-14-15, 05:38 PM
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I just got home from work.
I'm going to start testing now.
I supplied power to the fuel pump terminals in the trunk last night n it powers up.
I did the igniter test last night n I can hear spark, but I don't see spark.
So I'm going to go out there now n check my coils, n high tension wires.
I'm going to also do that ECU test Yamae was talking about too.
Give an update soon
Old 04-14-15, 08:23 PM
  #36  
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So I to my spark plug wires off n tested those.
In the process of doing so I see my LH camshaft position sensor is shorted.
Checked for continuity n it was OL.
I'm a replace that.
Would that cause the ECU to prevent fuel pump from powering up?
The other ignition wires are okay.
Kind of old tho.
I should probably replace them too.
That'll gave to wait tho.
I don't think the wife well let me keep spending money like that.
Only the necessities.
But would a bad cam sensor keep the ECU from powering the fuel pump?
Old 04-14-15, 09:03 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by DeZyn243
So I to my spark plug wires off n tested those.
In the process of doing so I see my LH camshaft position sensor is shorted.
Checked for continuity n it was OL.
I'm a replace that.
Would that cause the ECU to prevent fuel pump from powering up?
The other ignition wires are okay.
Kind of old tho.
I should probably replace them too.
That'll gave to wait tho.
I don't think the wife well let me keep spending money like that.
Only the necessities.
But would a bad cam sensor keep the ECU from powering the fuel pump?
Yes, no signal from the cam sensor is judged as one of the serious problems by the ECU and it disables the fuel supply. You are already in a middle of the phase at the real trouble shooting.
Old 04-14-15, 09:56 PM
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Thks for that info.
I have never heard of the ECU doing that.
That's a smart safety mechanism tho
I'll be ordering the cam sensor in the morning n go from there.
I'll see what happens
Old 04-14-15, 11:11 PM
  #39  
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Most of Toyota's ECUs are programmed to disable the fuel supply when one of following conditions is detected. These may damage the engine or cause serious problems and the engine can't be started. Say no MAF signal may destroy the engine. No rotation of a cam may damage pistons, valves and others.

So it would be useful to know these for the trouble shooting.

Many mechanics don't know these and they are sometimes forcing customers to throw big money or advise them to buy a new car.

1, No signal from the MAF for more than 3 seconds.
2, No signal from the crank position sensor for more than 5 seconds.
3, No signal from the cam position sensor for more than 5 seconds.
4, No IGF signal from the igniter for more than 3 seconds although the IGT signal is sent.
Old 04-14-15, 11:18 PM
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Test for spark, wasn't that #2 on the list??? If it truly is the cam sensor checking for spark in the beginning would have got you there quicker. The igniter test rules them out, then the signal source is the next thing to check.
Old 04-15-15, 02:48 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by dicer
Test for spark, wasn't that #2 on the list??? If it truly is the cam sensor checking for spark in the beginning would have got you there quicker. The igniter test rules them out, then the signal source is the next thing to check.
I was stuck on step 1 (ECU power source) for a while because after testing the M-rel terminal at the ECU it said check or replace ECU.
But now I've called all over town and no one sells the connector. They only sell the sensor. If I want the cam sensor connector I have to buy the whole engine harness.

I checked for continuity at the sensor on cam #1 and #2 and got a reading.
I did the same for the connector of cam's #1 and #2 and #2 was OL. #1 got a reading.
I figured both the sensor and the connector shuld be a closed circuit, but I was told otherwise.
I hear the sensor should get a reading but the connector should be an open line.
I don't see anything about the connector itself in prodemand. Only info on the sensor.
Does anyone have knowledge on the connector?
Old 04-17-15, 11:23 AM
  #42  
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So I have spent the last couple of days calling around and searching for a cam position sensor connector.
No one sells it individually.
They keep saying I have to buy the whole harness.
So I'm thinking I'm going to go ahead and create a connector myself since I can't buy one.
The Lexus dealer n maybe 3 or 4 auto shops have said buy the whole harness or sell it.
I'm definitely not ready to sell it.
Going to a pick a part tomorrow if it stops raining to see if I can't get a connector that way
Old 04-18-15, 11:05 AM
  #43  
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Have you gone to the junkyard? Find a car with a blown motor and cut the harness off.
Old 04-18-15, 11:23 PM
  #44  
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So how many ecu's and what ever else? Maybe just some blade connectors from a selection from harbor freight, and see if its going to run. All that needed to be done is check for fuel and spark.
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