LS400CR

I got on hands on a 2000 LS400 thats nearing 130k miles on it. It definitely has a P/S leak that has been leaking for quite some time now. It hasn't leaked into the alternator luckily, but it seems to be burning a slight amount of P/S through the exhaust. Im not too aware of exactly what type of maintenance has been done to the vehicle before I picked it up. So heres my check list and parts list. Any other things I should jump on while doing so. Im going to be doing all of the work myself.

replace engine oil and oil filter, engine air filter change, replace those 3 o-rings on the P/S pump, replace P/S ACV and P/S reservoir to pump hose and flush P/S fluid, replace with toyota type-iv, replace brake fluid, replace water pump, timing belt, and flush/replace coolant. replace drive belt tensioner and belt, clean intake manifold and throttle body and replace T/B gasket, and replace spark plugs.

how many qts for brake fluid flush? how many qts for P/S flush? and I'm also going to be doing the transmission drain and fill with every oil change for one year. so how many qts for transmission drain and fill?

LScowboyLS

if PS fluid is showing up on the ground, then it is getting into the alternator, and will quickly ruin it

I would concur with most of your to-do list, however brake fluid replacement would be fairly low on my priority list, as that particular system tends to stay pretty darn clean, especially at only 130K miles. - You might take a syringe or turkey baster and draw some of the fluid out and take a look at it - if it's dark, then replace it, but it is likely clear and nice and just fine for now.

by T/B gasket, do you mean the gaskets on the timing belt covers?

transmission drain and fill amount is dependent on how long you leave the bolt out when draining, if you leave it out for a couple of minutes, you will likely get 2-3 quarts out, if you leave it out overnight, you could get 5 or more out. - please make sure to replace both the gasket and bolt, as the drain bolt is meant to be disposable and replaced after removal to insure a good seal. (the bolt & gasket pair are less than $5 total at an online Lexus or Toyota dealership.)

the transmission fluid should be topped up to the very top of the HOT area, with the transmission hot after say a half hour of driving, in Park, engine running, after having shifted through all gears, with car on very level ground.

make sure to use for the coolant change, a 50/50 mix of Toyota long life red coolant and distilled water

I would clean the battery connections well and consider replacing the problematic postitive terminal with a replacement from any Toyota dealership (about $15)

I would get a four wheel alignment, new tires, regardless of tread left, if they are over 5 years old, and do a thorough inspection of all suspension bushings, and three things that have a high likelihood of needing replacement if they have not already been replaced are the two strut bar cushions and the rear engine mount (aka transmission mount) - these three parts are very inexpensive ~$40 each and easy to install, although the cushions must be properly clocked at the machine shop and torqued down while the cars weight is on the suspension (i.e. on the ground)

python

iTrader: (4)

brake fluid is hygroscopic..needs to be flushed every few years in california..sooner if ur in florida or other high humidity climates...also turkey basting the fluid isnt going to do much as it doesnt circulate enough to replace itself

LS400CR

ill see if i can add the new alternator to my list. can't be too much more plus it' would be one less thing to deals with later. especially since ill be working in that area doing the rest of the work anyways. the previous owner had paperwork that the brake pads and rotors were replaced last june with it has 115k miles. and the battery was replaced last march with a optima yellow top. oh by T/B gasket I'm actually referring to the throttle body gasket. I've read in the DIY that when cleaning the inside of the T/B you might as well replace the gasket.

LScowboyLS

yes, brake fluid is hygroscopic, and if you live in a humid area, you certainly need to flush it every 2-3 years, however in some dry areas, such as many areas of California, Nevada, Arizona, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, New Mexico and Western Texas, as well as many parts of the Middle East, you may never need to flush it, in fact, where I used to live in Phoenix, it was so dry, that if you opened up the master cylinder, the the brake fluid actually loses water, rather than gaining it!

python

iTrader: (4)

to each his own..trust and believe im changing all fluids in a timely manner
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2422005
also high dot fluid is more susceptible to attracting moisture..so dot 4 and 5.1 needs changing sooner than dot 3
moisture is attracted through brake hoses and seals. when replacing parts such as calipers its not a good idea to push fluid back through the abs unit..lightly pinch off the hose and open the bleeder to rid old fluid out and replenish with new. also never leave an opened bottle of brake fluid in the garage for an extended period of time and then use it. just a few tips for doing brakes...hope this helps