Any tricks to remove the Cat converter joint nut?
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Any tricks to remove the Cat converter joint nut?
1996 LS400, 220,000 miles
It is the front joint of the Cat Converter.
There are 3 14 mm nuts, two facing the floor, one on the back of the joint.
I have removed the two nuts that facing the floor as shown in the pic.
The one that hide behind the joint, anyone have experience in removing it?
Thanks
It is the front joint of the Cat Converter.
There are 3 14 mm nuts, two facing the floor, one on the back of the joint.
I have removed the two nuts that facing the floor as shown in the pic.
The one that hide behind the joint, anyone have experience in removing it?
Thanks
#2
Lexus Champion
soak all of the nuts in PB Blaster for 24 hours, keep spraying and whacking them with a heavy wrench about every hour, to induce vibration
as far as getting to the hardest to reach nut, that is why they have those crazy pivoting ratchets and curved wrenches and other goodies on the tool trucks!
working on cars is like a mental puzzle, you have to come up with the unique way to get at the nut or fastener, walking around the inside of the tool truck (Snap-on, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, etc.) will give you ideas, when you see the arsenal of weapons they offer you in your quest, it makes your mind kick in and calculate how you could use what they have to go after the harder to reach fasteners!
once you figure out the ideal tool, check and see if they have it for cheap at harbor freight tools
as far as getting to the hardest to reach nut, that is why they have those crazy pivoting ratchets and curved wrenches and other goodies on the tool trucks!
working on cars is like a mental puzzle, you have to come up with the unique way to get at the nut or fastener, walking around the inside of the tool truck (Snap-on, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, etc.) will give you ideas, when you see the arsenal of weapons they offer you in your quest, it makes your mind kick in and calculate how you could use what they have to go after the harder to reach fasteners!
once you figure out the ideal tool, check and see if they have it for cheap at harbor freight tools
Last edited by LScowboyLS; 06-06-13 at 08:48 PM.
#4
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Well,the trick is
Get the rear joint first, remove the two nuts of the rear joint, and the post-cat pipe will drop, then you can get that third nut of the front joint from behind of the cat converter..
Get the rear joint first, remove the two nuts of the rear joint, and the post-cat pipe will drop, then you can get that third nut of the front joint from behind of the cat converter..
Last edited by dashan; 06-07-13 at 12:46 PM.
#6
Super Moderator
iTrader: (6)
Ok, what I see that is needed for this is: Lift, acetylene torch and the Snap-On truck handy. Tool trucks are dangerous on the wallet because one can find all kinds of useful tools. The bad part is that the home wrencher may use them once every 5-7 years or longer intervals depending on part being worked on.
#7
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Ok, what I see that is needed for this is: Lift, acetylene torch and the Snap-On truck handy. Tool trucks are dangerous on the wallet because one can find all kinds of useful tools. The bad part is that the home wrencher may use them once every 5-7 years or longer intervals depending on part being worked on.
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#8
Lexus Champion
I go to the tool trucks for ideas, but mostly shop at harbor freight, amazon & ebay
PS - Harbor Freight has an awesome deal on a well regarded 3 ton floor jack @ $69, today & tomorrow only!
PS - Harbor Freight has an awesome deal on a well regarded 3 ton floor jack @ $69, today & tomorrow only!
#9
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
One nut on the front joint freezes, resulting in exhaust stud coming out.
Bought Dorman - Help Exhaust Stud Kit - M10-1.25 x 40mm exhaust stud #03105. Don't know whether it fits.
Bought Dorman - Help Exhaust Stud Kit - M10-1.25 x 40mm exhaust stud #03105. Don't know whether it fits.
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dashan
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
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05-27-17 03:36 PM