BigRon239

Hey guys, I've had code 13 on for about a month now. I have checked the resistance of both the AFM and both cam sensors, swapped the ECM with an extra one I have, replaced the engine coolant and nothing has improved. The car runs pretty rough and misfires but it slowly gets better when it is warming up and the CEL goes away. Its a really big mystery and I need you guys' help! Thanks!

LScowboyLS

none of these things you did have any relationship to code 13 except ECM (aka ECU)



code 13 is RPM signal no. 2

engine RPM information is supplied to the ECU via the igniters

I would suspect igniter #2 (the bottom one that controls passenger side coil #2) or else the ECU or else an open or short between them (the IGT2 and IGF2 connectors on ECU are the the wires in question, they run from igniter #2 to ECU)

less likely, but possible is a short or open between ignition switch and coil #2, or a short or open between ignition switch and igniter #2, or a bad coil #2 itself or a ground issue with any one of these.

do you have the factory shop manual? - it has many helpful tests you can run with just a multimeter

johnnyg66

That's a cool informative video.

python

iTrader: (4)

code 13 refers to cam sensors/connectors or the timing belt jumped

BigRon239

I will check the igniters since it makes more sense, and then work from there. This is extremely useful information and I thank you. I do not have the manual, but my dad has Alldata.

LScowboyLS

speaking of python's advice, you can follow it as well - testing the cam position sensors is easy enough, and so is checking for jumped time (usually just one tooth on only one cam pulley) - just take out the plugs and remove both cam pulley covers and rotate crank clockwise only and verify that marks simultaneously line up on: 0TDC on crank pulley, cam pulley marks, cam backing plate marks and the marks on the timing belt (the last one is not a must)

BigRon239

I did a further inspection of the engine and found that there is spark noise coming from the driver's side cam with make me believe that either the rotor or distributor cap is bad. I will be changing these tomorrow or Thursday and let you guys know the results.

LScowboyLS

well *definitely* check the timing belt marks while you are in there doing the caps & rotors, since that only adds about 2 whole minutes to the entire job and might just be the issue!