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All my crazy Lexus issues SOLVED!! (ECU-leaking capacitor)

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Old 05-05-14, 02:41 PM
  #796  
L8274Jones
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Hi All ,
Gotta jump in here and praise LS COWBOYLS and Mr Yamae for the real brainstorming that is done for us. I had some Mechanical probs that I was working on and after Cowboy's advice I had my ECM Caps changed . The Tech did an Awesome job and even though nothing appeared wrong with the boards when opened up , Now the car acts NEW Totally different animal. I have a couple of other things to fix on my '95 LS 400 and then I will get it licensed again ..... So anyway Gentleman Thank You You two are a real boon to us LS400 owners !!!
Old 05-06-14, 05:27 AM
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Diwill05
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After further thought, I'm starting to have concerns about being able to repair the ECU. It has one cap that appears to have leaked out badly. The parts will be here Thursday, but I'm wondering should I go ahead and get another ECU and have that recapped. Don't think I can upload pics from my phone on here.. Any advice?
Old 05-15-14, 07:33 PM
  #798  
bernynhel
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Originally Posted by Diwill05
Just went out to crank the car and it fired right up, but I noticed the RPM gauge wasn't working... That's never happened before. I guess I have a problem. Could be a stab in the dark, but I suppose this along with the other issues are related to this thread? I'd

Ok... instead of making repeated posts, I've edited this one and would just like to say I finally got the ecu out and examined it. There's only 6 caps as stated and I've already spotted at least 3 very suspect. One looked like it might have a small spot of corrosion (light green stuff) around the legs and board, and two other exhibited the usual brown stuff on the board surrounding it so no doubt parts are getting ordered and the ecu will be shipped off to be repaired if possible. I'd posts pics, but I'm sure all who are familiar already know.

I would to thank the guys who originated this thread and find. This has been a life saver compared to what these local shops would have done to me!
IDK my instrument cluster including AC and Radio lights are totally dark until the car warms up longer in winter - quicker in summer - withe the tachometer and speedometer - which do not function at all although the AC and radio all work just not illuminated - last to come online, respectively - sometimes the speedometer never gets working - never in winter and only after 15 mins or more in summer and Im in the CA desert so I attribute all of that to a cracked solder or two on whatever motherboard is responsible and that only after enough heat generated from running causes it to expand and reconnect the circuit...anyway all work fine in summer after sufficient time running to expand the cracked solder spots.
Old 05-16-14, 02:13 AM
  #799  
Yamae
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Originally Posted by bernynhel
IDK my instrument cluster including AC and Radio lights are totally dark until the car warms up longer in winter - quicker in summer - withe the tachometer and speedometer - which do not function at all although the AC and radio all work just not illuminated - last to come online, respectively - sometimes the speedometer never gets working - never in winter and only after 15 mins or more in summer and Im in the CA desert so I attribute all of that to a cracked solder or two on whatever motherboard is responsible and that only after enough heat generated from running causes it to expand and reconnect the circuit...anyway all work fine in summer after sufficient time running to expand the cracked solder spots.
I don't think your problems are caused by the cracked solder spots. I'd rather think of the capacitance and the ESR issues of electrolytic capacitors since the capacitance decreases and the ESR increases when cold. I also have encountered exactly the same problems with you and fixed them.
Old 05-16-14, 05:19 AM
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roydarc
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Yamae and LScowboyLS
Changed my capacitors back in November in my 95 LS400 and everything has been great. I want to do the same in my 2002 Toyota Avalon XLS. Is there some place I can go to get the info on what I need?
Old 05-16-14, 06:51 AM
  #801  
Yamae
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Originally Posted by roydarc
Yamae and LScowboyLS
Changed my capacitors back in November in my 95 LS400 and everything has been great. I want to do the same in my 2002 Toyota Avalon XLS. Is there some place I can go to get the info on what I need?
Congratulations on your success.
As fas as I know, any 2002 Toyota Avalon does not use those infamous capacitors that containing “quaternaty ammonium salt". So you don't need to worry about your Avalon so much. Toyota stopped using those capacitors in 2000. Of course every electrolytic capacitors that containing the electrolyte has a dry up problem when aged. But most those are OK for 20 years or so as long as they are properly used.

On the other hand, those capacitors that containing “quaternaty ammonium salt" tend to have corrosion problem of the leg and the liquid is lost in a decade+α.
Old 05-18-14, 06:38 AM
  #802  
Mike1JZ
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Hey gents, is someone able to give me some specifics on the C102 surface mount capacitor? I'm on the chase for a suitable replacement before I make a start with the remainder.

Leak has spread over it as seen:

Old 05-18-14, 09:03 AM
  #803  
RA40
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The values are on the side of the capacitor. Match those to the ones listed and replace. If it is a different value post it here and we'll go from there.
Old 05-18-14, 09:56 PM
  #804  
Mike1JZ
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Originally Posted by RA40
The values are on the side of the capacitor. Match those to the ones listed and replace. If it is a different value post it here and we'll go from there.
As I mentioned, I am referring to the tiny surface mount capacitor 'C102' as it has been leaked onto as seen. I already have the rest of the replacement capacitors, I'm just needing some info on this particular one if someone can shed some light? Cheers

Old 05-19-14, 12:13 AM
  #805  
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Sorry, read that wrong.
Old 05-19-14, 09:26 AM
  #806  
Yamae
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I don't remember exactry but it's 0.1 or 0.22uF 50V. Either should work.

Last edited by Yamae; 05-19-14 at 09:34 AM. Reason: To add the voltage spec.
Old 05-19-14, 09:47 AM
  #807  
bernynhel
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Originally Posted by Yamae
I don't think your problems are caused by the cracked solder spots. I'd rather think of the capacitance and the ESR issues of electrolytic capacitors since the capacitance decreases and the ESR increases when cold. I also have encountered exactly the same problems with you and fixed them.
You solved these problems servicing/recapping the main ECU or is there another motherboard for the instruments and interior lights? If all the problems are about the ECU that would be great! Its on its way to Python Injection, Inc. in Stanton, CA. I sent them the list of caps and am awaiting their reply.

Thanks!

Bill
Old 05-19-14, 10:08 AM
  #808  
bernynhel
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Default No 10uf caps!

OK never mind the sky's not falling -- I didn't see Newark in the links and Googled the cap mfg part # and found them - they have a few - thanks again. Bill

Last edited by bernynhel; 05-19-14 at 03:46 PM.
Old 05-21-14, 07:02 PM
  #809  
AngryLemur
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Hey guys, first off thanks for this forum, it's gonna save me big time. Big thanks to LScowboyLS and Yamae for all the info.

Now I actually live in Australia and have a 91 Toyota soarer 1uz which is the same as a Lexus sc400. Out of the blue it started misfiring pretty bad but crazy intermittently, had it with multiple mechanics who have done various things (plugs, leads, timing belt, coil packs etc) and as a result I have already spent about $1000 just to fix this issue, it's been a nightmare and whats worse is that i haven't been able to enjoy my car for about 6 months now.

I have sourced another ecu for my car which should work (doing as many checks etc to make sure parts are compatible). Got my mechanic (who also happens to be my brother in law) to give me the ecu so I could take a look at the board and what do you know, leaky caps.

Now I currently work as a mobile phone and game console tech so I do know my way around pcbs and soldering. My plan is to get this other ecu and try it out, if it works i will try and replace the caps in my ecu which then I can keep as a spare and possibly sell later on. If it gets to that stage then I definitely owe you guys a beer!

One last thing, you guys recommend that you use baking soda and water to make a paste like substance to clean the board of the cap leakage? Would I do just as well with isopropyl alcohol? Reason I ask is that I find that it's pretty friendly to electronic components.

Thanks again guys!
Old 05-21-14, 10:25 PM
  #810  
bernynhel
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Originally Posted by AngryLemur
Hey guys, first off thanks for this forum, it's gonna save me big time. Big thanks to LScowboyLS and Yamae for all the info.

Now I actually live in Australia and have a 91 Toyota soarer 1uz which is the same as a Lexus sc400. Out of the blue it started misfiring pretty bad but crazy intermittently, had it with multiple mechanics who have done various things (plugs, leads, timing belt, coil packs etc) and as a result I have already spent about $1000 just to fix this issue, it's been a nightmare and whats worse is that i haven't been able to enjoy my car for about 6 months now.

I have sourced another ecu for my car which should work (doing as many checks etc to make sure parts are compatible). Got my mechanic (who also happens to be my brother in law) to give me the ecu so I could take a look at the board and what do you know, leaky caps.

Now I currently work as a mobile phone and game console tech so I do know my way around pcbs and soldering. My plan is to get this other ecu and try it out, if it works i will try and replace the caps in my ecu which then I can keep as a spare and possibly sell later on. If it gets to that stage then I definitely owe you guys a beer!

One last thing, you guys recommend that you use baking soda and water to make a paste like substance to clean the board of the cap leakage? Would I do just as well with isopropyl alcohol? Reason I ask is that I find that it's pretty friendly to electronic components.

Thanks again guys!
I get anhydrous isopropyl alcohol at the electronics supply shop - its purer with less water so faster drying and no oxidation.


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