Trans Hesitation / Slippage Following Oil Change
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Trans Hesitation / Slippage Following Oil Change
Hi, I have a 1993 LS400 with about 65K miles on it, its not driven much as you can see, but it runs perfectly well, and has been correctly serviced since purchase in Nov 1992.
As part of a general, car-wide fluid service, I drained the trans fluid. I also pulled the trans pan since the gasket had gone in the right rear passenger side and was weeping. Figured since I'm in under the pan, I would change out the filter...used a Beck Arnely aftermarket filter kit w/ gasket. Old filter looked clean.
First issue which surprised me was that my oil catch pan, which can hold around 5-6 quarts was near full of trans fluid. Was expecting closer to ~2-4qts per the manual.
Following the drain and new filter, I added about ~4qts of Toyota Brand Type IV ATF, until it registered int the cold section of the dip-stick.
Main concern, and reason for this post, is that when I put the car in gear now, it will pull forward / backward for a few seconds, and looses forward / backward pull. Engine continues to run / does not stall, but is a bit rough...its been about 8 months since it last ran. I've checked the trans oil levels, and pulled some fluid out of the pan using suction to fine tune the level, but same thing happens. Its like there is some uptake of fluid and then its starved.
I'm planning to retrace my steps which probably means pulling the pan / filter, but was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how to proceed in the mean time.
Update: I've seen a number of thread talk about filters clogging...guess I see if this is the case once I'm back in to the pan.
Thanks
Dave
As part of a general, car-wide fluid service, I drained the trans fluid. I also pulled the trans pan since the gasket had gone in the right rear passenger side and was weeping. Figured since I'm in under the pan, I would change out the filter...used a Beck Arnely aftermarket filter kit w/ gasket. Old filter looked clean.
First issue which surprised me was that my oil catch pan, which can hold around 5-6 quarts was near full of trans fluid. Was expecting closer to ~2-4qts per the manual.
Following the drain and new filter, I added about ~4qts of Toyota Brand Type IV ATF, until it registered int the cold section of the dip-stick.
Main concern, and reason for this post, is that when I put the car in gear now, it will pull forward / backward for a few seconds, and looses forward / backward pull. Engine continues to run / does not stall, but is a bit rough...its been about 8 months since it last ran. I've checked the trans oil levels, and pulled some fluid out of the pan using suction to fine tune the level, but same thing happens. Its like there is some uptake of fluid and then its starved.
I'm planning to retrace my steps which probably means pulling the pan / filter, but was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how to proceed in the mean time.
Update: I've seen a number of thread talk about filters clogging...guess I see if this is the case once I'm back in to the pan.
Thanks
Dave
Last edited by aaddpp; 08-03-11 at 09:25 PM.
#3
Did you follow the correct proceedure for checking the fluid level? With the engine running slowly move the selector thru all gear positions from park to low and then back again, leaving the engine running check the level on the dip stick within 30 seconds.
The cold level check is also not as accurate as the hot level check, to do the hot check the car must have been driven at least 20 miles before following the same above proceedure for checking the hot level.
The cold level check is also not as accurate as the hot level check, to do the hot check the car must have been driven at least 20 miles before following the same above proceedure for checking the hot level.
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Did you follow the correct proceedure for checking the fluid level? With the engine running slowly move the selector thru all gear positions from park to low and then back again, leaving the engine running check the level on the dip stick within 30 seconds.
The cold level check is also not as accurate as the hot level check, to do the hot check the car must have been driven at least 20 miles before following the same above proceedure for checking the hot level.
The cold level check is also not as accurate as the hot level check, to do the hot check the car must have been driven at least 20 miles before following the same above proceedure for checking the hot level.
Thanks,
Dave
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