1996 LS400 Timing Belt Replacement In Progress
#16
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
You don't need to take out the camshaft in your 96 to change the seal, that started in 98. All ya need to do is take off the camshaft pulley bolt and take off the pulley (you don't need a pulley puller) then pry out the seal. I used a paint can opening tool, (whatever it's called) b/c it had a lip on it to get in and pry out. The bolt is on there very tight, you need to stop the pulley from spinning. I put a large screwdriver through the pulley and rested it against something, I forget where, but do NOT use the valve cover as leverage, it might crack. Check out youtube to see how people pull them out. It's easy.
Why don't you just use that hydraulic jack in the pic instead of a scissor jack?
Why don't you just use that hydraulic jack in the pic instead of a scissor jack?
I plan to lock the crankshaft pulley with SCH64300 pulley holder. With timing belt still on, locking of crankshaft pulley will also hold the camshaft pulley in place while I remove the camshaft pulley bolt. The only thing I am worried about is whether the timing belt will be strong enough to hold the camshaft pulley while I remove the camshaft pulley bolt.
Last edited by dashan; 07-05-11 at 11:46 PM.
#17
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I am at this point.
The right cam timing mark is right at the line. It looks like it is one tooth over spin in the pic because of position of camera.
The right cam timing mark is right at the line. It looks like it is one tooth over spin in the pic because of position of camera.
Last edited by dashan; 07-06-11 at 10:33 AM.
#18
Pole Position
For the crank pulley bolt I just jamb a big screwdriver in the flywheel to stop the engine from spinning while taking off the bolt, it's on tight. It takes a couple tries to get the screwdriver in the right spot so it doesn't fall out, but it's there. The cam pulleys, as I've said, I put a screwdriver through the spokes on the pulley to the engine to stop that from spinning. The belt will not stop the pulley from spinning while trying to take the bolt out, it's too much force, the belt will jump the teeth.
I haven't seen you mention it but do you know about setting the timing to about 50* after TDC before removing the belt? If not, read up on it. The reason for that is so if by any chance the pulley turns a bit while the belt is off the valve wont come in contact with the piston. I would hate to hear that something screwed up.
I haven't seen you mention it but do you know about setting the timing to about 50* after TDC before removing the belt? If not, read up on it. The reason for that is so if by any chance the pulley turns a bit while the belt is off the valve wont come in contact with the piston. I would hate to hear that something screwed up.
#19
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Remove the Cam bolts
So, I locked the Crankshaft pulley with SCH64300, used the electric impact wrench to loose the camshaft bolts. Per Dean's advice, don't pull the trigger too hard so the camshaft pulley won't jump the timing belt tooth.
So, I locked the Crankshaft pulley with SCH64300, used the electric impact wrench to loose the camshaft bolts. Per Dean's advice, don't pull the trigger too hard so the camshaft pulley won't jump the timing belt tooth.
Last edited by dashan; 07-06-11 at 06:03 PM.
#22
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
For the crank pulley bolt I just jamb a big screwdriver in the flywheel to stop the engine from spinning while taking off the bolt, it's on tight. It takes a couple tries to get the screwdriver in the right spot so it doesn't fall out, but it's there. The cam pulleys, as I've said, I put a screwdriver through the spokes on the pulley to the engine to stop that from spinning. The belt will not stop the pulley from spinning while trying to take the bolt out, it's too much force, the belt will jump the teeth.
I haven't seen you mention it but do you know about setting the timing to about 50* after TDC before removing the belt? If not, read up on it. The reason for that is so if by any chance the pulley turns a bit while the belt is off the valve wont come in contact with the piston. I would hate to hear that something screwed up.
I haven't seen you mention it but do you know about setting the timing to about 50* after TDC before removing the belt? If not, read up on it. The reason for that is so if by any chance the pulley turns a bit while the belt is off the valve wont come in contact with the piston. I would hate to hear that something screwed up.
#23
Pole Position
Damn, how much did you pay for that? Thing looks like it worked pretty good, but I'll still stick with the ol' screwdriver in the flywheel. I've never heard of anyone ever buying one. Also I've never seen one like that, just the one they show in the manual. Did that also work on the cam bolts?
#24
Pole Position
This is from another thread; "The reason for the 50* turn (according to the Toyota manual) is to make sure the pistons/cams aren't in danger of touching each other."
It doesn't have to be at 50* ATDC if you know for sure that the pulleys aren't gonna move. Then you can just set all 3 marks to where they're supposed to be normaly, but I'm pretty sure this is the first for both of them.
#25
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Damn, how much did you pay for that? Thing looks like it worked pretty good, but I'll still stick with the ol' screwdriver in the flywheel. I've never heard of anyone ever buying one. Also I've never seen one like that, just the one they show in the manual. Did that also work on the cam bolts?
#27
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I have one question:
The RH side timing belt idler pulley, which I need to use a 10mm hex Allen key to remove. Is it normally threaded (counter clockwise for loose)? or Is it reversely threaded?
Thanks
My answer: normal thread.
The RH side timing belt idler pulley, which I need to use a 10mm hex Allen key to remove. Is it normally threaded (counter clockwise for loose)? or Is it reversely threaded?
Thanks
My answer: normal thread.
Last edited by dashan; 07-06-11 at 09:24 PM.