What to look for when buying a salvage engine?
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
What to look for when buying a salvage engine?
Looking to buy a salvage 95-97 1UZFE engine from a local (LA) junk yard to replace a 96 with snapped timing belt. Found multiple choices and prices ranging from 350-1000+ all claiming decent to good conditions. What questions should I be asking (besides the obvious like miles and collision damages), and what should I be looking for? I plan to replace the timing belt/pump and probably starter before putting it back in car. Thanks.
PS: I bought the car with timing belt snapped already. So I know what I am getting into.
PS: I bought the car with timing belt snapped already. So I know what I am getting into.
#2
BahHumBug
iTrader: (10)
make sure there's no physical damage, everything that should be there is there, some way to verify the mileage would be GREAT, but is rarely if ever available. oh, and of course compression numbers for all 8 cylinders.
also, doesnt hurt to run the vin on the NICB to make sure its a legit motor that's not jacked or anything like that.
https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck
make sure to update us
also, doesnt hurt to run the vin on the NICB to make sure its a legit motor that's not jacked or anything like that.
https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck
make sure to update us
#5
first thing to check, see if the crankshaft turns... get a proper sized socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet and try to turn the crank clockwise... if it turns, youre good so far... if it doesnt, you got a frozen block.
if they let you, pull a valve cover off and turn the crank to see if the valve train moves, useless if the timing belt snapped on it... then youll be in the same position youre in right now...
also check the oil dipstick to see if there is oil in the block. this ensures nothing in the block is rusted out or corroded.
if they let you, pull a valve cover off and turn the crank to see if the valve train moves, useless if the timing belt snapped on it... then youll be in the same position youre in right now...
also check the oil dipstick to see if there is oil in the block. this ensures nothing in the block is rusted out or corroded.
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
I got the car for about $400, but back taxes (CA) brings it up to $1000. Checking with online (on Lexus.com), the car had dealer services until 80K than just went off radar until I got it at 150K, so not sure if the belt was ever changed.
I got the car originally as a parts car for my 95 (wanted all the electronics, seats, interior,etc.) but everything still works on the car (except the engine and air suspension). I found several engines in town (Los Angeles) for around $500, and Arnott struts conversion $700, and $500 labor (friend owns a factory with mechanic willing to do it so cheaply). Since all these are still somewhat reasonable I decided to pay the back taxes (to get a clean title), and perhaps resurrect it for my father-in-law who always wanted an older style LS400.
Would have bought him a 98+ or LS430 (since he like the older style), but he insisted on paying for everything, thus I am trying to keep costs low.
I got the car originally as a parts car for my 95 (wanted all the electronics, seats, interior,etc.) but everything still works on the car (except the engine and air suspension). I found several engines in town (Los Angeles) for around $500, and Arnott struts conversion $700, and $500 labor (friend owns a factory with mechanic willing to do it so cheaply). Since all these are still somewhat reasonable I decided to pay the back taxes (to get a clean title), and perhaps resurrect it for my father-in-law who always wanted an older style LS400.
Would have bought him a 98+ or LS430 (since he like the older style), but he insisted on paying for everything, thus I am trying to keep costs low.
#7
Instructor
The best way to identify the condition of the engine is pull and read the spark plugs. Compression test are nice, but if there is abnormal amount of oil in the combustion chamber, it will read higher than actual. Both are great, however spark plugs are a must when identifying the engine's status.
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#8
Driver
Thread Starter
I ended up buying a 96 LS with 46K miles on it (rear-ended), and already got it running. about 3 hours pulling it out, and 8 hours putting it in (1 high current wire was unplugged by the salvager and took us 2 hours trying to find why only 4 cylinders got juice but other 4 not). Will put photos of the new engine soon.
#9
I ended up buying a 96 LS with 46K miles on it (rear-ended), and already got it running. about 3 hours pulling it out, and 8 hours putting it in (1 high current wire was unplugged by the salvager and took us 2 hours trying to find why only 4 cylinders got juice but other 4 not). Will put photos of the new engine soon.
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
Paid $550 for the engine from a salvager in San Diego, and price included delivery to LA, 30 day warranty (seems to be running strong), and no core exchange needed. Found it car-parts.com and happy with price and results. Also paid $200 for the rack and pinion and power steering pump assembly (for another LS I have).
#11
Instructor
I ended up buying a 96 LS with 46K miles on it (rear-ended), and already got it running. about 3 hours pulling it out, and 8 hours putting it in (1 high current wire was unplugged by the salvager and took us 2 hours trying to find why only 4 cylinders got juice but other 4 not). Will put photos of the new engine soon.
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