Buying a Ls400... What to look for?
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Buying a Ls400... What to look for?
Im looking at both 94-00 Ls400 and 98-05 Gs300. I was just wondering what are some things to be on the look out for and what are some good questions to ask. I would really appreciate all the help i can get. thanks
#2
I just bought a 95 and a 96 (after looking at many 95-00 samples). If it makes you feel any more secure, get vehicle service history but complete ones are hard to get, and are often forged (especially from independent shops, not dealers). And Carfax is kind of useless, unless the car has suspicious ownership history.
This is what I learned if I am to buy another 96-00 LS.
First, don't get air suspension because they go bad by 10-15th year, and it's at least $500-700 for parts (+ labor) to convert to conventional suspension. That's $1000 you can save by avoiding air suspension. (I bought a 96 at parts car price because its air suspension broke).
Second, make sure the timing belt, water pump, power steering pump have been replaced or service recently (get verifiable receipt), because this would cost you another $1000+.
Third make sure body is in good shape, because body work can be very costly. And alignment/wheels/tires/brakes in good shape. That is another $1000 you can save.
Fourth I would stay away from cars with touch screen Nav (98-00) because so many functions are accessible only through it, and dread the thought of replacing the screen (another $1000 unless you can find one at junk yard).
Fifth I would stay away from cars with the transponder keys (97-00 I think), because if you ever lose your master keys it will be costly to have Lexus dealer reprogram the car (another $1000) to accept a new key. With a 96 or older you just need proof of ownership and $50 to get a new key made.
You just saved $5000+ following this 5 rules.
I did not follow them (I had to learn my way around), so had to add $1000 into my 95, and $2000 into my 96. Mind you, this is all optional (I didn't have to change timing belt right away but did it to avoid bigger bills later). But they are really amazing cars for the money ($5K or less). Good luck.
This is what I learned if I am to buy another 96-00 LS.
First, don't get air suspension because they go bad by 10-15th year, and it's at least $500-700 for parts (+ labor) to convert to conventional suspension. That's $1000 you can save by avoiding air suspension. (I bought a 96 at parts car price because its air suspension broke).
Second, make sure the timing belt, water pump, power steering pump have been replaced or service recently (get verifiable receipt), because this would cost you another $1000+.
Third make sure body is in good shape, because body work can be very costly. And alignment/wheels/tires/brakes in good shape. That is another $1000 you can save.
Fourth I would stay away from cars with touch screen Nav (98-00) because so many functions are accessible only through it, and dread the thought of replacing the screen (another $1000 unless you can find one at junk yard).
Fifth I would stay away from cars with the transponder keys (97-00 I think), because if you ever lose your master keys it will be costly to have Lexus dealer reprogram the car (another $1000) to accept a new key. With a 96 or older you just need proof of ownership and $50 to get a new key made.
You just saved $5000+ following this 5 rules.
I did not follow them (I had to learn my way around), so had to add $1000 into my 95, and $2000 into my 96. Mind you, this is all optional (I didn't have to change timing belt right away but did it to avoid bigger bills later). But they are really amazing cars for the money ($5K or less). Good luck.
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Fifth I would stay away from cars with the transponder keys (97-00 I think), because if you ever lose your master keys it will be costly to have Lexus dealer reprogram the car (another $1000) to accept a new key. With a 96 or older you just need proof of ownership and $50 to get a new key made.
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thanks for the help, i dont mind paying for a transponder key but i appreciate your advice. i really do like the 98-00 the most of all ls400. il see whats out there hope fully i can come up on a deal.
keep the info coming guys
keep the info coming guys
#5
power steering leaks, power steering leaks, power steering leaks... I used to think it was only a 1990-94 issue, but I have read of issues on models as late as 2000!
Also for smooth operation of the PS system. 1994 is the same as the 1990-93 mostly, so not sure why you omitted those, but on the 1995-newer model, as someone has already mentioned, timing belt maintainence is critical. They are interference engines... the 1990-94 models are not and while they should be kept up to date on those as well, at least the engine will not be ruined if it snaps, whereas on the 1995+ models, if it breaks, the engine is destroyed.
Also motor mounts should be up to date... these cars are touchy there and these. Dash lights on some have issues, especially the 1990-94 models (my 91 was fine though).
Watch out for air suspension models... COSTLY to service.
Hope this helps.
Also for smooth operation of the PS system. 1994 is the same as the 1990-93 mostly, so not sure why you omitted those, but on the 1995-newer model, as someone has already mentioned, timing belt maintainence is critical. They are interference engines... the 1990-94 models are not and while they should be kept up to date on those as well, at least the engine will not be ruined if it snaps, whereas on the 1995+ models, if it breaks, the engine is destroyed.
Also motor mounts should be up to date... these cars are touchy there and these. Dash lights on some have issues, especially the 1990-94 models (my 91 was fine though).
Watch out for air suspension models... COSTLY to service.
Hope this helps.
#6
Listen for a tack tack tack tack at idle. Every hundredth used Lexus or so, will have a tick tick tick valve clatter. You take it to mechanic/dealer. They say "howz about a valve adjustment for $885.00?" You say, "sure." You get the car back and it is still doing a tick tick tick. They say "naw, that's just the injectors." But you know better. You have heard other Lexus V8s and they are beautifully hushed, save for a nice injector whisper murmer.
I did my own valve adjustment. Correctly. It still ticked. Went back in and found that prior neglect had left varnish under one of the valve lifter buckets and the valve was drilling through the pad underneath. $13.00 and plenty of my free labor later, it is gone.
If you ever should find a ticky ticky engine, buy it! But be sure to get $1,000.00 credit from the seller or, if the timing belt has yet to be done, a $1,500.00 for both.
YMMV
Colin
I did my own valve adjustment. Correctly. It still ticked. Went back in and found that prior neglect had left varnish under one of the valve lifter buckets and the valve was drilling through the pad underneath. $13.00 and plenty of my free labor later, it is gone.
If you ever should find a ticky ticky engine, buy it! But be sure to get $1,000.00 credit from the seller or, if the timing belt has yet to be done, a $1,500.00 for both.
YMMV
Colin
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OP, generally everything has been mentioned but only thing I must stress POWER STEERING! Other than that, just be extremely thorough looking through everything.
Good luck!
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#9
Not saying "Don't buy 98-00". Just highlighting some red flags that could cost $5000+. I almost bought a 98 for $5700 but ended up getting a 95 for $3500 (same mileage, same color, both 1 owner) because it's not $2200 better than a 95. Yes, VVTi and 5th gear are awesome but I rather pocket the extra $2200 for future services (timing belts, etc...).
#11
"Better" is in the eye of the beholder.
What is "better" performance if you don't care about winning an extra two seconds in your day IF you should be only pedal-to-the-metal once or twice a week? When I am driving a Lexus, I am having more fun getting there than being there.
What is NAV "better" for but to help take your eyes off the road (like that split second that made that twit crash head-on into me in my old favorite car of all time VW bus at 65 mph August 16th?
If you like a simple elegant interior and exterior like I do, should I be touting the fact that earlier LS400s are "better" than all the others and probably have the best build quality and the most long-term dependability as well, and the 1UZFE has a lower end that is considered the strongest of the bunch by people who know these things?
I look at competing posts, and I think it might be a "better" thing to crow about what you like about your model year, ask a potential buyer what they are looking for, and then let them decide what is "better".
Anyways, my car is the best, and I'll brook no disagreement with that fact.
Colin
What is "better" performance if you don't care about winning an extra two seconds in your day IF you should be only pedal-to-the-metal once or twice a week? When I am driving a Lexus, I am having more fun getting there than being there.
What is NAV "better" for but to help take your eyes off the road (like that split second that made that twit crash head-on into me in my old favorite car of all time VW bus at 65 mph August 16th?
If you like a simple elegant interior and exterior like I do, should I be touting the fact that earlier LS400s are "better" than all the others and probably have the best build quality and the most long-term dependability as well, and the 1UZFE has a lower end that is considered the strongest of the bunch by people who know these things?
I look at competing posts, and I think it might be a "better" thing to crow about what you like about your model year, ask a potential buyer what they are looking for, and then let them decide what is "better".
Anyways, my car is the best, and I'll brook no disagreement with that fact.
Colin
#12
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Nobody is mentioning the terrible suspension clunks, rattles and pops that LS400s inevitably develop. I would spend a lot of time during the test drive going over all kinds of dips, bumps, etc.
#13
My 1991 LS had developed a clunk about 5 months ago, but oddly it only lasted a month and never did it again.
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