AC Blows Cold but Weak on a 92 LS400...
#1
AC Blows Cold but Weak on a 92 LS400...
...I noticed that it gets a little better while I'm driving, but when I'm at a stop light, the RPMS are really low and it seems like the car is working for it. It is cold, and was recharged recently and puts out air at 58 degrees F.
My friend's 91 AC system blows amazingly cold and strong. He said that the electric fan in my system is out.
I did a SEARCH and didn't find anything relative thread except those on the cabin filter, which pre-93 cars (mine is a 92) does not have.
I think it might be the compressor itself.
Any help is appreciated.
BTW, my thread titles are getting better...
My friend's 91 AC system blows amazingly cold and strong. He said that the electric fan in my system is out.
I did a SEARCH and didn't find anything relative thread except those on the cabin filter, which pre-93 cars (mine is a 92) does not have.
I think it might be the compressor itself.
Any help is appreciated.
BTW, my thread titles are getting better...
#4
Nope. The RPM only dips when the compressor is on...
...could it be related to the low AMPs being put out by the rebuilt alternator I installed...it's only putting out 57% of its amp rating (100AMP alternator)...
...could it be related to the low AMPs being put out by the rebuilt alternator I installed...it's only putting out 57% of its amp rating (100AMP alternator)...
Last edited by avalon42; 07-07-07 at 08:44 PM.
#5
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iTrader: (3)
with no load, the alternator should output 10 A or less while the engine is operating between idle and 2000 rpm.
with the high beams on, heater blower set to HI, and engine running at 2000 rpm, the alternator should output 30 A or more.
58°F is definitely not cool enough. the engine should be idling at ~ 900 rpm while the magnetic clutch is engaged.
with the high beams on, heater blower set to HI, and engine running at 2000 rpm, the alternator should output 30 A or more.
58°F is definitely not cool enough. the engine should be idling at ~ 900 rpm while the magnetic clutch is engaged.
#6
with no load, the alternator should output 10 A or less while the engine is operating between idle and 2000 rpm.
with the high beams on, heater blower set to HI, and engine running at 2000 rpm, the alternator should output 30 A or more.
58°F is definitely not cool enough. the engine should be idling at ~ 900 rpm while the magnetic clutch is engaged.
with the high beams on, heater blower set to HI, and engine running at 2000 rpm, the alternator should output 30 A or more.
58°F is definitely not cool enough. the engine should be idling at ~ 900 rpm while the magnetic clutch is engaged.
58 is not cool enough? What are you guys seeing in terms of temp in your cars with AC at Max Cold (using those thermal testers, not your gauge readout obviously)?
#7
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iTrader: (3)
is your a/c system running r12 or was it converted to r134a?
i just recharged my system today after finding my leak and replacing the dryer. i ran vacuum, purged with refrigerant, ran vacuum again, then added ~ 38 oz of refrigerant. ambient air was 88°F, the fluke showed 39.1°F coming out of the center vent with the climate control set to max fan, 65°F (lowest setting), and recirculate with the engine idling at 800 rpm.
i just recharged my system today after finding my leak and replacing the dryer. i ran vacuum, purged with refrigerant, ran vacuum again, then added ~ 38 oz of refrigerant. ambient air was 88°F, the fluke showed 39.1°F coming out of the center vent with the climate control set to max fan, 65°F (lowest setting), and recirculate with the engine idling at 800 rpm.
Last edited by mobilyte; 07-08-07 at 08:23 PM.
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#8
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Check pressures...
Put the gages on it and check pressures. That will tell you whether the compressor is bad. If the pressures are OK, then check the condenser for blockage. Spray water thru the condenser and check if the pressures drop. This could mean insufficient air flow thru the condenser at idle - bad clutch fan and or bad electric fan. I had a similar problem...warmish air at slow speed or at rest but OK on the highway. I had a bad fan clutch.
#9
is your a/c system running r12 or was it converted to r134a?
i just recharged my system today after finding my leak and replacing the dryer. i ran vacuum, purged with refrigerant, ran vacuum again, then added ~ 38 oz of refrigerant. ambient air was 88°F, the fluke showed 39.1°F coming out of the center vent with the climate control set to max fan, 65°F (lowest setting), and recirculate with the engine idling at 800 rpm.
i just recharged my system today after finding my leak and replacing the dryer. i ran vacuum, purged with refrigerant, ran vacuum again, then added ~ 38 oz of refrigerant. ambient air was 88°F, the fluke showed 39.1°F coming out of the center vent with the climate control set to max fan, 65°F (lowest setting), and recirculate with the engine idling at 800 rpm.
My friend's comes out blasting but his temp is only around 59 ish as well.
#10
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iTrader: (3)
i dont have any experience with the r12 substitutes unfortunately, so i cant comment on their cooling ability for fixed system capacities. i checked the temp by closing the windows, placed the thermocouple in the center vent, and left the meter on the dash while the car was idling parked.
i was almost done filling the 2nd can (28 oz so far) and my cousin told me "that's good enough." i checked the sight glass and saw half bubbles - half liquid. he advised me to not crack the last can and save it in case of leaks, i insisted on "more cool!" the last 3/4 can made almost a 20° difference.
i was almost done filling the 2nd can (28 oz so far) and my cousin told me "that's good enough." i checked the sight glass and saw half bubbles - half liquid. he advised me to not crack the last can and save it in case of leaks, i insisted on "more cool!" the last 3/4 can made almost a 20° difference.
#11
i dont have any experience with the r12 substitutes unfortunately, so i cant comment on their cooling ability for fixed system capacities. i checked the temp by closing the windows, placed the thermocouple in the center vent, and left the meter on the dash while the car was idling parked.
i was almost done filling the 2nd can (28 oz so far) and my cousin told me "that's good enough." i checked the sight glass and saw half bubbles - half liquid. he advised me to not crack the last can and save it in case of leaks, i insisted on "more cool!" the last 3/4 can made almost a 20° difference.
i was almost done filling the 2nd can (28 oz so far) and my cousin told me "that's good enough." i checked the sight glass and saw half bubbles - half liquid. he advised me to not crack the last can and save it in case of leaks, i insisted on "more cool!" the last 3/4 can made almost a 20° difference.
I put a total of 3 1/2 cans, but keep in mind the system had no pressure in it at all so there was no need for recovery. When I tried to unscrew the high pressure valve, I notice that it was really loose. I replaced both valves.
#14
Anyone here using R12 or R12 substitute having the same problems? My friend ran the fluke in his car, his air is actually showing the center air console temp is exactly at ~59-60 degrees. So actually, my air temp coming out is colder than his, but his AC blasts the air out, while mine feels like its just coming out a little.
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