LS - 4th Gen (2007-2017) Discussion topics related to the current flagship models LS460, LS460L and LS600H

Control Arm Issue?

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Old 10-03-16, 06:48 AM
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fooldall1
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Thanks for the replies, All.

I am inclined to TRY to replace them myself, I really am.

Is there a full writeup/HowTo for this work?
Old 10-03-16, 07:07 AM
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fooldall1
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Also, since price is a concern for me right now... Should I just do the lowers, or all the front?
Old 10-03-16, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by fooldall1
Also, since price is a concern for me right now... Should I just do the lowers, or all the front?
You can do it! A write up is attached.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-4th-gen-2007-present/830530-ls460-control-arm-diy-upper-and-lower-with-torque-spec-s.html
Old 10-03-16, 05:10 PM
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roadfrog
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lol you really don't like BMW (consistently)
That is correct. As I have been burned badly TWICE now, I will never let it go and have made sure to warn everyone else. Consider it my.... "holy quest".
Old 10-03-16, 05:33 PM
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Nospinzone
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BTW, the OP originally titled the thread "Brake Actuator Issue?", but since it is now determined to be a control arm issue, I changed the title.
Old 10-03-16, 05:49 PM
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Doublebase
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Originally Posted by fooldall1
Also, since price is a concern for me right now... Should I just do the lowers, or all the front?
Call me crazy, but if price is an issue I'd just change the ones that are bad. Why not? People do this all the time...only change the things that are broken on their suspensions.
Old 10-03-16, 06:53 PM
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2v1g
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That is why I always buy the warranty right away when buying pre-owned Lexus LS
Old 10-03-16, 07:37 PM
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superdenso
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Originally Posted by Doublebase
Call me crazy, but if price is an issue I'd just change the ones that are bad. Why not? People do this all the time...only change the things that are broken on their suspensions.
The reason you address them all is because it's a pain to begin with so why do it twice...and the ball joints, with their rubber boots, are easily damaged. If you go at it yourself, $500-$700 is within reason.

Last edited by superdenso; 10-04-16 at 03:53 AM.
Old 10-04-16, 04:25 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by superdenso
The reason you address them all is because it's a pain to begin with so why do it twice...and the ball joints, with their rubber boots, are easily damaged. If you go at it yourself, $500-$700 is within reason.
I guess I'm in the school of thought that you don't need to replace every single damn piece of a front suspension unless you have to. I see cars come in all the time that need a control arm, it doesn't mean I need to replace the other arm, all the ball joints, sway bar links...because where does it end? I understand what you're saying, but I did my arms and half of them looked fine. I was throwing away control arms that were good.
Old 10-04-16, 06:07 PM
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superdenso
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Originally Posted by Doublebase
I guess I'm in the school of thought that you don't need to replace every single damn piece of a front suspension unless you have to. I see cars come in all the time that need a control arm, it doesn't mean I need to replace the other arm, all the ball joints, sway bar links...because where does it end? I understand what you're saying, but I did my arms and half of them looked fine. I was throwing away control arms that were good.
I understand your point. If it didn't require so much of a tear down I would have changed the uppers only.

Also, if a Lexus service dept gets wind all arms were not replaced they will add that diagnosis w/declined repair to your service history. Then you're back at it again.

for now I like the poly bushing press in method if you have the time. Take off all arms/service bushings & re-install
Old 10-05-16, 06:55 PM
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fooldall1
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SuperDenso, Thanks for the pointer to the writeup. I am sorely tempted to try it myself. My friend says I'm nuts for trying it myself, so I think I will probably pay someone *this* time and watch how the job is done.

Actually, I've been told by the Audi dealership to bring it back in to the service dept (1.5hrs away) and they will look at it again, and let me know "what they'll do". I'm sure all that means is that they might cover HALF, which- at the end of the day, is kind of a win.

Sort of.


Assuming I did pay a local shop to do the repairs.. I would just start with the LOWERS, right?- It seems those are the main culprits in these issues- no? I simply can't afford all of the arm this time around, and at least I will have time to save some $$ for the other repair (the front uppers).


What do you guys think of something like this?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Brand-N...tWdIih&vxp=mtr
Old 10-06-16, 01:15 AM
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Got the same problem recently. My lower bushings were replaced about a year ago, but the problem came just a few months ago, and dealer told me upper bushings need to be replaced as well. They changed upper bushings in one side, and the problem isn't that bad now. However, another side needs to be replaced as well, will do it this weekend.
Old 10-06-16, 07:51 AM
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If you don't get any help and can remove the arms without damaging the boots the total parts cost is $250. Then you could take all arms to a machine shop to have the old bushings pressed out and the new poly bushings pressed in. The warranty is lifetime. So if you end up fitting the bill, the cost is not outrageous. I have 2,500 miles on the poly bushings and they are a pleasant surprise.

https://shopasd.com/collections/ls460
Old 10-06-16, 05:56 PM
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I saw a SUV stopped on the road today. Is the control arm broken?
Old 10-06-16, 08:19 PM
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Looks like the Ford Edge lost the lower ball joint. The knuckle separated from the lower control arm. There appears to be only a lower control arm on this design. And the part you see hanging is the CV joint. From this pic, it looks like 300 to 500 to repair.

Last edited by superdenso; 10-06-16 at 08:23 PM.


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