LS460 radiator replacement: tips
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
LS460 radiator replacement: tips
replaced radiator of 2009 LS460, trying to write out some tips here before forgetting them.
this is a time consuming job, due to the following steps:
1. remove/restore the front bumper, this seems necessary to get access to the screws connecting the radiator to the AC condenser.
2. connecting the new radiator to the AC condenser. I bought the radiator from ebay for $90 with life-time warranty. the screw holes on this radiator do not line up with the screw holes of the AC condenser. I had to make some cuts on the tabs around the screw holes of the radiator to connect it with the AC condenser. It took me a while. maybe an OEM radiator would fit better.
I used a new transparent plastic container to catch the coolant when draining them. The coolant color looks fine and I reused them.
the old radiator is 8 yr old and look really bad. the nipple that everyone was talking about fused into the rubber hose connecting to the coolant reservoir. with a little force the nipple crumbled into pieces. I am glad I replaced the radiator.
this is a time consuming job, due to the following steps:
1. remove/restore the front bumper, this seems necessary to get access to the screws connecting the radiator to the AC condenser.
2. connecting the new radiator to the AC condenser. I bought the radiator from ebay for $90 with life-time warranty. the screw holes on this radiator do not line up with the screw holes of the AC condenser. I had to make some cuts on the tabs around the screw holes of the radiator to connect it with the AC condenser. It took me a while. maybe an OEM radiator would fit better.
I used a new transparent plastic container to catch the coolant when draining them. The coolant color looks fine and I reused them.
the old radiator is 8 yr old and look really bad. the nipple that everyone was talking about fused into the rubber hose connecting to the coolant reservoir. with a little force the nipple crumbled into pieces. I am glad I replaced the radiator.
The following users liked this post:
pierreluv (01-25-21)
#3
Advanced
Thread Starter
the throttle body looks fine, only some black dusts on the edge of round piece. cannot see the other side.
to clean the throttle body is my next task. Dealer recommended cleaning the throttle body with a quote of $300+. It is very easy to expose the throttle body, maybe 10 minutes of removing various covers and snorkels.
but i haven't figured out how to clean it:
method 1: to spray throttle body cleaning foam onto it. but i heard throttle body like this one can not be forced open-- it can damage the part or the finger.
method 2: remove the throttle body and then spray the foam onto it.
will do more research on it.
to clean the throttle body is my next task. Dealer recommended cleaning the throttle body with a quote of $300+. It is very easy to expose the throttle body, maybe 10 minutes of removing various covers and snorkels.
but i haven't figured out how to clean it:
method 1: to spray throttle body cleaning foam onto it. but i heard throttle body like this one can not be forced open-- it can damage the part or the finger.
method 2: remove the throttle body and then spray the foam onto it.
will do more research on it.
#4
Lexus Fanatic
I'm trying to figure out why you removed the bumper.
I replaced my rad, hoses and water pump in a couple of hours, and did not need to remove the bumper. This is one of the easiest rad replacements I've ever done, so anyone looking at doing this job, should not be intimidated.
You only need to remove the grill insert, disconnect the hood latch, remove the top radiator cross member and then disconnect the lines and pull the radiator straight up and out. EZ PZ.
I replaced my rad, hoses and water pump in a couple of hours, and did not need to remove the bumper. This is one of the easiest rad replacements I've ever done, so anyone looking at doing this job, should not be intimidated.
You only need to remove the grill insert, disconnect the hood latch, remove the top radiator cross member and then disconnect the lines and pull the radiator straight up and out. EZ PZ.
Last edited by roadfrog; 03-29-16 at 12:35 AM.
#5
Advanced
Thread Starter
you are probably right, if the bottom two screws connecting the radiator and AC condenser do not need to be removed (AC condenser tabs ride on the tabs of the radiator), then no need to remove the whole bumper to get access.
thanks for sharing all the experiences
thanks for sharing all the experiences
I'm trying top figure out why you removed the bumper.
I replaced my rad, hoses and water pump in a couple of hours, and did not need to remove the bumper. This is one of the easiest rad replacements I've ever done, so anyone looking at doing this job, should not be intimidated.
You only need to remove the grill insert, disconnect the hood latch, remove the top radiator cross member and then disconnect the lines and pull the radiator straight up and out. EZ PZ.
I replaced my rad, hoses and water pump in a couple of hours, and did not need to remove the bumper. This is one of the easiest rad replacements I've ever done, so anyone looking at doing this job, should not be intimidated.
You only need to remove the grill insert, disconnect the hood latch, remove the top radiator cross member and then disconnect the lines and pull the radiator straight up and out. EZ PZ.
#6
I'm trying top figure out why you removed the bumper.
I replaced my rad, hoses and water pump in a couple of hours, and did not need to remove the bumper. This is one of the easiest rad replacements I've ever done, so anyone looking at doing this job, should not be intimidated.
You only need to remove the grill insert, disconnect the hood latch, remove the top radiator cross member and then disconnect the lines and pull the radiator straight up and out. EZ PZ.
I replaced my rad, hoses and water pump in a couple of hours, and did not need to remove the bumper. This is one of the easiest rad replacements I've ever done, so anyone looking at doing this job, should not be intimidated.
You only need to remove the grill insert, disconnect the hood latch, remove the top radiator cross member and then disconnect the lines and pull the radiator straight up and out. EZ PZ.
The radiator was in great shape, but accidentally broke to top nipple off pulling the alternator out on the street
Trending Topics
The following users liked this post:
steedls400 (08-06-20)
#9
Lexus Fanatic
I bought this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/13037-NEW-RA...3D152208844021
But this was found by another member on another thread. I'd get this one. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Fits-07-12-Le...mtr&rmvSB=true
But this was found by another member on another thread. I'd get this one. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Fits-07-12-Le...mtr&rmvSB=true
The following 2 users liked this post by roadfrog:
My3Boyz (09-20-20),
steedls400 (08-06-20)
#10
Advanced
Thread Starter
The following users liked this post:
steedls400 (08-06-20)
#12
Lexus Fanatic
I wouldn't bother. Have you owned since new? Any chance it was already replaced? Removing the rad isn't necessary to replace the water pump, so it's not like "you're already halfway there". Just make sure there's so sign of a leak. If it s leaking, you'll know it - lots of crusty pink deposits.
#13
Advanced
Thread Starter
in my case, the water pump started leaking slowly at ~58k miles.
the signs are:
coolant level in reservoir could drop 1 inch within several days
red-pink crust on the water pump around the weeping hole.
the signs are:
coolant level in reservoir could drop 1 inch within several days
red-pink crust on the water pump around the weeping hole.
#14
Breaking the nipple to the reservoir is extremely common. I know lexus techs will take a metal electrical junction box and cut it to fit over the top of the radiator to protect the nipple. I personally did it to a friends 08 LS. havent broken mine. Yet.
The following users liked this post:
steedls400 (08-06-20)
#15
Racer
I replaced my radiator over the weekend. It was not hard at all. Spent 3 hours total. 1 hours used to detail the engine bay and vacuum all the debris and patting myself on the back. The bumper does not need to come off. Spend a little more money and get the Denso radiator. It was a direct fit
Tips
There are a lot of 10MM bolts. Once you remove the plate with the hood latch on top of the radiator you are almost 1/2 way done. Then there are 4 more bolts holding the radiator connected to the condenser in front of the radiator. The 2 "sneaky" ones are at the bottom. Took me 10 minutes to realize they were there and those were the final bolts holding the radiator in place. WARNING: DO NOT remove the 10MM bolts for the (H) AC lines near the headlight on the right side of the AC condenser/cooler. I though the condenser was part of the radiator so I unscrewed it and I lost some Freon. AC still blew cold but I recharged it.
***One really important thing to check is the overflow/fill tube to the radiator nipple. Make sure it is clear of debris!!! The tube had pieces of crumbled plastic along with some old epoxy half way between the tube slowing the refill process. Take the tube off and blow into it to clear any crap left and clean out the tank. SHAME on Lexus for designing it this way! You could have a full overflow tank and think your antifreeze level is fine but the actual radiator is low on coolant.
Tips
There are a lot of 10MM bolts. Once you remove the plate with the hood latch on top of the radiator you are almost 1/2 way done. Then there are 4 more bolts holding the radiator connected to the condenser in front of the radiator. The 2 "sneaky" ones are at the bottom. Took me 10 minutes to realize they were there and those were the final bolts holding the radiator in place. WARNING: DO NOT remove the 10MM bolts for the (H) AC lines near the headlight on the right side of the AC condenser/cooler. I though the condenser was part of the radiator so I unscrewed it and I lost some Freon. AC still blew cold but I recharged it.
***One really important thing to check is the overflow/fill tube to the radiator nipple. Make sure it is clear of debris!!! The tube had pieces of crumbled plastic along with some old epoxy half way between the tube slowing the refill process. Take the tube off and blow into it to clear any crap left and clean out the tank. SHAME on Lexus for designing it this way! You could have a full overflow tank and think your antifreeze level is fine but the actual radiator is low on coolant.
The following users liked this post:
steedls400 (08-06-20)