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The procedure is the basically the same but the torque settings will vary by the type and location of the ball joint. Use TIS Repair manuals for the correct torque spec's.
It takes out the guess work or relying on a visual or mileage reference.
The procedure is the basically the same but the torque settings will vary by the type and location of the ball joint. Use TIS Repair manuals for the correct torque spec's.
It takes out the guess work or relying on a visual or mileage reference.
I just changed both outer tie rod ends on my son's mustang. What was the indication it was bad?
Loud squeaking when turning the wheel while not moving and the rubber boot on the ball joint was ripped. Also you could wiggle the joint freely
I just changed both outer tie rod ends on my son's mustang. What was the indication it was bad?
Loud squeaking when turning the wheel while not moving and the rubber boot on the ball joint was ripped. Also you could wiggle the joint freely
Yes, but that point the joint was "gone" and probably had been for years. I think the above procedure comes into play when you are doing other related work or troubleshooting where the noise or looseness is emanating from.
Another unofficial method that I used on my ball joints is when turning in the minimum circumference or the tightest turn in a parking lot the wheels feel as if they push sideways a bit rather then maintaining normal traction in the turn. Mine were just starting to demonstrate this at about 120k miles. Dealer said they were fine but I replaced with Beck Arnley parts with a notable improvement.
Another unofficial method that I used on my ball joints is when turning in the minimum circumference or the tightest turn in a parking lot the wheels feel as if they push sideways a bit rather then maintaining normal traction in the turn. Mine were just starting to demonstrate this at about 120k miles. Dealer said they were fine but I replaced with Beck Arnley parts with a notable improvement.
From what I understand, Beck/Arnley can actually be OEM parts or not. They are a distributor, and not a manufacturer; just like Moog. I went over board on my wife's car simply because I love her, and decided to replace pretty much everything on the front suspension. I used the above procedure to replace the stabilizer link assy components. The old ones were at 12lbs psi and the new Moog's at 18 lbs. The rubber boots were fine but the component was 11+ years old.
What I have noticed, is that components are being made all over the world. Mahle, a German company, my oil filter was made in Mexico and my Air filter in Bulgaria (LS430) and China (Q45)..
Makes one wonder what exactly are we getting! Don't think that OEM is any different! SOS!
For me, I have looked at the consumers of these products to make an assessment. I know German's fairly well. They have a strict "quality over quantity" foundation. They will pay over $200 for an oil change, but they will do it only once every 18,000 miles plus. They DEMAND that the products used are TOP quality. That's how they look at things.
12-19-15, 09:53 AM
How to check a Ball Joint for Wear
