DealWithIt

Hi there everyone on the forums,

Recently on a road trip from Seattle to San Francisco and then Las Vegas, I discovered some problems with the brakes in our 2002 LS430.

It made a really loud humming noise, and after we got back to Seattle, I diagnosed the car needed new rotors and pads.

I was wondering for these 4 piston and 2 piston brakes, when you put in new pads, how do you compress the pistons?

The ordinary brake compressor tool with the **** wouldn't work, because there is no hole for the screw to go through.

I've seen the brake pad jobs but it wasn't stated in the post.

Thanks everyone!


P.S. I am also looking to try out the EBC Stage 2 kits for pads and rotors, anyone have experience with them?
Here's the part #'s if it matters: S2KF1166 (Front), S2KR1366 (Rear)

cquence

The "screw" doesn't go into a hole. We're assuming you're referring to this device:
http://www.greenhybrid.com/share/fil...5/DSCN3359.jpg

DealWithIt

Well, on quad piston brakes, as far as I understand, my toll (exactly like one pictured) will not work. So I was wondering how would one go about compressing them.

Tom57

A large channel lock with tape on the jaws. I've also used a seat clamp. Be sure to open the brake fluid reservoir.

DealWithIt

Is there order to compressing 4 Pistons? And as far as channel locks go, how long should they be to get enough leverage? Is it better to open the bleeder valves also?

Tom57

No particular order. But once you compress one piston, use a seat clamp to hold it down while you compress the other on the same caliper. Otherwise, you'll squeeze one and the other will open back up. (There are only 2 pistons on each front caliper.)

How large channel locks? Large enough to get around the caliber body.

Do not open bleeders for piston compressing. Open bleeders only for brake fluid bleeding, which you should do at the end after installing new pads.

Arcturus

+1 on the channel locks. I did not use tape. Those pistons are steel (you will see rust on them) and, unless you are abusive you will not damage them. In spite of that, I tried to put the non-serrated tip of the channel locks on the piston. The other side of the channel lock will go on the outside of the brake caliper.

What I did was compress one side, then the other and alternate until they are fully pushed in. You will see when you switch sides, the piston on the other side will pop out a little bit, but not fully. In other words, if you keep alternating eventually they will cease to pop out and you will be able to install your new pads.

Arcturus

I used this tool. The channel lock model number 440:


Very handy tool to have around the house and garage.

Arcturus

For the front, I had good luck with Bremsen rotors and Bendix pads. I think it was around $320 for rotors and pads taxes included - this is in Canada., which is always a rip-off compared to the US.

For the rears I went with Brembo rotors and Bendix pads. Was around $250 for everything. Make sure you release your parking brake before trying to remove the rear rotors otherwise you will rip-off and damage the parking brake retaining clips!

Discard the shims that come with the new pads and reuse the stock stainless shims.

If you have a dial indicator or can loan one from a buddy check that the lateral runout is 0.002" or less on each rotor. If it is high, you will get vibration through the steering wheel when you brake.

Also, don't buy cheapy rotors and pads. Most likely they will warp or have high lateral runout. I know with the rotors above I was able to get 0.0007-0.0008" per side. Expect to pay $80-$100 dollars per rotor for a good quality piece.

DealWithIt

Wow, thanks for all the help! I'll be probably starting this job soon!

As far as reusing factory shims, this car had its brakes serviced before and it looked to me like it was done by not a very well named shop. I think factory shims are very unlikely to still be in the car at this point.

Should I go OEM on the parts, or aftermarket?

And also, bit confused on what lateral runout is, can someone here please explain that?

Thanks for all the help guys!

Fixman

This explains it

DealWithIt

Okay, thanks for the video!

Tom57

Note that the lug nuts are fastened to hold the rotor to the wheel bearing hub during runout check. Also, another way to try and minimize runout is to install the rotor onto a different wheel stud to see if runout is reduced. With 5 wheel studs, you have 5 options to install the rotor. If the wheel bearing is rusty, use a wire brush to clean it before installing the rotor.

LsBanGer43

iTrader: (1)

Tom57

The video shows him applying something to the two caliper attaching bolts. Not advised. Those bolts are aluminum, and the torque spec for them is dry, not lubed.