Time to roll or shave the fenders!
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Time to roll or shave the fenders!
Hey guys, I have been searching quite a bit, and now that my data controller is here, and I have the new wheels waiting impatiently in the garage lol, it will be time to roll or shave the fenders.
Seems like most people are saying that the fronts do not need to be rolled or shaved, but if they need to be touched, that a roll would be better, just to be careful of the tabs for the fender liners, as to not dimple the fender.
And for the rear, seems like everyone is shaving instead of rolling, saying the fenders might buckle back there if rolled, but if you shave, to sand it down smooth, and to paint over the edges to keep the fender from splitting?
Just want some advice for those that have done this (either method) and pics if possible! Trying to get an idea of how much fender material needs to go!
Seems like most people are saying that the fronts do not need to be rolled or shaved, but if they need to be touched, that a roll would be better, just to be careful of the tabs for the fender liners, as to not dimple the fender.
And for the rear, seems like everyone is shaving instead of rolling, saying the fenders might buckle back there if rolled, but if you shave, to sand it down smooth, and to paint over the edges to keep the fender from splitting?
Just want some advice for those that have done this (either method) and pics if possible! Trying to get an idea of how much fender material needs to go!
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415mm (03-26-19)
#4
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Kinda like this one right?
I have a belt sander at home, just use a low grit to tear it up, and then a fine grit to smooth her out?
Any problems with heating the metal too much? Or maybe just do it in sections
I have a belt sander at home, just use a low grit to tear it up, and then a fine grit to smooth her out?
Any problems with heating the metal too much? Or maybe just do it in sections
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PNWLS430 (12-24-20)
#6
Lexus Test Driver
Do not roll the rears! I had mine rolled and it's looks like crap because the holes from the mounting screws for the plastic lip cause the fender to dimple. Now I have to have a body shop fix it and repaint the fenders for $900. I shoulda used a Dremel or rotary tool/angle grinder of some kind to shave the lip, or just had my good body shop do it.
#7
How much material you take off will depend on your rim width and offset, tire size and camber. It'll be trial and error.
When I shaved my rears, I did so when I installed my coilovers. I removed the stock struts, bolted up the rim and raised the wheel into the fender, made a visual-mental note and went to town with a grinder with 60/80 grit flap wheels. Finished off with light sanding and that was that.
For info's sake, read this about panel separation since the spot welds will likely be gone like mine.
http://www.vipstylecars.com/forums/s...nder-splitting
When I shaved my rears, I did so when I installed my coilovers. I removed the stock struts, bolted up the rim and raised the wheel into the fender, made a visual-mental note and went to town with a grinder with 60/80 grit flap wheels. Finished off with light sanding and that was that.
For info's sake, read this about panel separation since the spot welds will likely be gone like mine.
http://www.vipstylecars.com/forums/s...nder-splitting
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#8
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Thanks! I figured on the shave I would get down there with the wheels and see how much is needed, but didn't know if there was a minimum amount to leave alone, like maybe 1/4in or so
BTW, have you guys been having issues with VSC? Their forums are hit and miss for me...seem to never work when I want them
BTW, have you guys been having issues with VSC? Their forums are hit and miss for me...seem to never work when I want them
#10
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
I would roll the fronts also, but as for the rear I'd shave them but make sure to secure the rear panels from splitting which will cause the fenders to buckle. There's some tack welds that hold the fender to the frame once you shave those off bondo or glue those bad boy back together.
#11
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Fronts seem fine....i won't ve rolling dumped, so i doubt ill have to do anything besides maybe bending the fender liner brackets in slightly....don't think i need to do much front wise.
Rear on the other hand....sits on the tire. Im gonna have to shave most if not almost all of the rear off. Then try to polish it smooth and paint or protect the edging. Would an epoxy work to hold the fender edges in place?
Rear on the other hand....sits on the tire. Im gonna have to shave most if not almost all of the rear off. Then try to polish it smooth and paint or protect the edging. Would an epoxy work to hold the fender edges in place?
#12
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Fronts on 8 i think....i don't think this was on L mode. It should go down more :
Rears i had on L, but i couldnt drop the jack all the way since the fender lip was.resting on the tire. I am hoping a shave will let me drop all the way down on L. If not, id rather pull in reasonable camber then pull the fenders i think
Rears i had on L, but i couldnt drop the jack all the way since the fender lip was.resting on the tire. I am hoping a shave will let me drop all the way down on L. If not, id rather pull in reasonable camber then pull the fenders i think
#15
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Ok, so I shaved one side of the car...passenger rear. I used the belt sander, and besides running through the sandpaper quickly, it was a fairly easy and straight forward process.
I shaved most of it off...left about 1/4in or so just in case. I would def recommend this to anyone. If you take your time, it will come out fine.
I don't believe I would rub on a 9 with my ASC680 on the 19s...definitely would be good to drive around on an 8.
When I go to "L" mode, the fronts sit perfect...but because the rear wheels are so wide, the fender sits right on the tire. And since the tires are stretched, I am afraid I may mess up the fender, or the tire sidewall or both. I'd never drive it like this, but I am thinking with the weight on it overnight, I may have problems.
I am going to shave the other side tomorrow, and test fit on all 4 corners instead of just one side. If I can't get the wheels to sit how I like, I am going to have to camber them in, or just sell the wheels and try something else.
I really like the tuck look, and I knew I wouldn't ever tuck these due to the offsets and width, but I was hoping to at least hide tire and I am probably 10-15mm away from that without messing with camber. I think I gave too much credit to the rear natural camber lol
I shaved most of it off...left about 1/4in or so just in case. I would def recommend this to anyone. If you take your time, it will come out fine.
I don't believe I would rub on a 9 with my ASC680 on the 19s...definitely would be good to drive around on an 8.
When I go to "L" mode, the fronts sit perfect...but because the rear wheels are so wide, the fender sits right on the tire. And since the tires are stretched, I am afraid I may mess up the fender, or the tire sidewall or both. I'd never drive it like this, but I am thinking with the weight on it overnight, I may have problems.
I am going to shave the other side tomorrow, and test fit on all 4 corners instead of just one side. If I can't get the wheels to sit how I like, I am going to have to camber them in, or just sell the wheels and try something else.
I really like the tuck look, and I knew I wouldn't ever tuck these due to the offsets and width, but I was hoping to at least hide tire and I am probably 10-15mm away from that without messing with camber. I think I gave too much credit to the rear natural camber lol
Last edited by C8V6C; 08-20-12 at 03:19 PM.