LS430 Brake Pad Replacement w/ Photos - Page 5 - Club Lexus Forums


LS430 Brake Pad Replacement w/ Photos

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-12-10, 10:07 AM   #61
AlexusAnja
Moderator
 
AlexusAnja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NY/NJ
Posts: 4,171
Default

Just replaced the rear last night and holy smokes. Can it be any easier. I spent more time lifting the car, securing, and removing the wheel than the actual pad replacement job. I did both sides in 25 min. from start to finish. 25 min to save $330 (what dealer wanted for rear job) was crazy.

To think how easy this is and then to think of the old school brake shoes that I used to replace on my old minivan... wow...

The only thing I would add to the writeup is that Todd's sensor was broken so he just yanked it out I presume. If your sensors are still good, there is a small metal clip that holds the sensor down. use a small screw flathead screw driver and it pops right out, then the sensor is loose by itself.

Great writeup and super job by Toyota designing this like this. I wonder if any other Toyota/Lexus vehicles have these calipers.
AlexusAnja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-10, 10:27 AM   #62
jimbosr1
Lexus Test Driver
 
jimbosr1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: ga
Posts: 1,317
Default

went to change the rear pads and each pad was 1/16" difference then the new pads,guess i will wait before i change them out.
jimbosr1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-10, 07:17 PM   #63
vollandt
Driver
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: new york
Posts: 167
Default

i had my local service station throw a set of wagner ThermoQuiet pads. with these pads, the backing plate is integrated into the pads, so the installation is even simpler. the whole job took like 10 minutes over just rotating the tires. these pads go for ~40 on amazon for front and rears, plus there is a $30 rebate on parts and $20 on installation costs currently. that's about as cheap as it gets. so far, I can't tell the difference between ThermoQuiet and oem. silent and plenty of bite
vollandt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-10, 02:05 AM   #64
fergo308
Pole Position
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NSW - Australia
Posts: 331
Default

[quote=Vpanin;5559442]
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanVanDam View Post

I noticed my front rotors were free to wiggle, but my rears were not. Is this normal?




My front driver side rotor is free to wiggle . I found it weird since the other three are solid in place. I wonder if thats normal

It's not normal,but it's not something to worry about either. From factory the discs have countersunk bolts attaching the discs to the hubs on each corner. The discs are free floating,and held true to the hubs by the road wheel when it's fitted.


Justin...
fergo308 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-10, 04:31 AM   #65
daddykay24
Driver
 
daddykay24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 186
Default

This thread just saved me over $700 dollars. Thanks to the O.P and Irontoad.com, it cost me all of $110 dollars to do my brakes. Thanks again
daddykay24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-10, 04:50 PM   #66
mtaalib3
Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 59
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTodd View Post
After replacing the wheels and properly hand tightening them, I took a drive to "bed" in the brakes and check proper operation. No issues and brakes worked like a charm.

Tips- Use the right tools. Take your time. Work cleanly. Work safely.

When installing the front pads, and compressing the pistons, I used an old pad to apply pressure to push the pistons into the caliper equally. Pushing in on them individually only caused the other piston to push out.

No major headaches, and after changing countless pads in a variety of vehicles over the past 25 years I have to say this is the easiest pad replacement I have ever done.

Pads purchased from Iron Toad.

If I think of anything else, I'll edit. Hope someone finds this as useful as I did the other posts on the subject.

Todd
awesome write up. before your post I thought I was gonna have to remove the calipers to change the brakes.
mtaalib3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-10, 04:52 PM   #67
stropp
Driver School Candidate
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 33
Default another satisfied customer!!!

What a breeze, took longer to rotate my tires... did jack my jack with all the jacking... apparently the jacks are not lexus quality... anyway. Was surprised that the sensors are only front and rear PASSENGER SIDE ONLY...I was dipping into the wear indicators but not through or tripped. Last year, the dealer said I was at 20%...must have been more as it took a year. Was confused about the brake grease and used very little thinking I did not want it oozing on the calipers. I also used a screwdriver to push in the front double pistons. I would push in one and then use the pliers to lock it in place while I pushed the other in. The rears are single piston. Thanks for the great thread!!! And to IRONTOAD for a quick turnaround.

All is well and drives like a charm... now to tackle the actuator and find a new jack.... Oh, and I have an oil leak of some type....

Last edited by stropp; 11-26-10 at 05:34 PM.
stropp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-10, 10:45 PM   #68
4litre
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
 
4litre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 335
Default

Now that's a write up!!! Kudos!!!
4litre is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-10, 04:28 PM   #69
jmscott
Driver School Candidate
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 34
Default

Can someone comment on what the clamp is being used for in the third image down on post #3??
jmscott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-10, 07:21 PM   #70
AlexusAnja
Moderator
 
AlexusAnja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NY/NJ
Posts: 4,171
Default Not sure

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmscott View Post
Can someone comment on what the clamp is being used for in the third image down on post #3??
Not sure, I did both without a C-clamp at all. I think the OP is using that to compress the brakes sensor to then remove. Honestly, don't know why as I used an alligator plier and removed the clip that holds the sensor in, then slid the sensor right off.

Unless the OP can chime in with what was done there. Perhaps it was to do something else I'm not aware of, but as I said... I didn't use a C-clamp for anything.
AlexusAnja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-11, 06:35 PM   #71
svlexus
Driver
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: IL
Posts: 144
Default

So there are no lube points? other than the shim with brake grease?
svlexus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-11, 07:00 PM   #72
TurboTodd
Driver
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 152
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexusAnja View Post
Not sure, I did both without a C-clamp at all. I think the OP is using that to compress the brakes sensor to then remove. Honestly, don't know why as I used an alligator plier and removed the clip that holds the sensor in, then slid the sensor right off.

Unless the OP can chime in with what was done there. Perhaps it was to do something else I'm not aware of, but as I said... I didn't use a C-clamp for anything.
I would have used the C-clamp to compress the caliper piston. Inserted the pad and used the C-clamp against it to avoid tearing a piston boot. Thinking back, I don't think I even had to use it.
TurboTodd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-11, 07:05 PM   #73
Yangls430
Driver School Candidate
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: MN
Posts: 10
Default

great job, now I don't have to go to the dealer. I will do it myself and save some $..
thanks,
Yangls430 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-11, 07:56 PM   #74
fergo308
Pole Position
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NSW - Australia
Posts: 331
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by svlexus View Post
So there are no lube points? other than the shim with brake grease?
No,there aren't any points on the callipers that require greasing.


As for the clip/G clamp application,you can also use a flat bladed screwdriver and the old pad to press back the pistons. do one side of each calliper at a time as the opposing pistons can sometimes push back out if you try and press in the opposite side without a pad in place.


Justin...
fergo308 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-11, 04:10 AM   #75
tkbalt
Driver
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: IN
Posts: 181
Default

Dealer says I am at 6mm front and rear - suggests we will need to do front / rear brakes at next (60K) service - wants $800 to do the brakes. That (plus the pictures in this thread) was my motivation to order parts from irontoad. Now just need to get up the nerve to replace the pads.
tkbalt is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
LiCelsior's 2006 slow build LiCelsior Build Threads 62 08-25-16 05:48 PM
Passion VIP Guam SC430 build cdplayr SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010) 8 09-18-14 03:24 PM
Well guys i totaled my car, goodbye GS hello LS sakataj GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) 47 04-04-11 10:41 AM
GA GS 350/460 OEM Wheels wmr71 Wheels and Tires Classifieds 6 08-23-10 10:10 AM
My 2001 UL TurboTodd LS - 3rd Gen (2001-2006) 8 02-07-07 07:03 PM


Tags
2003, 2005, brake, change, club, forums, lexus, ls, ls430, pad, pads, pics, rear, replace, sensor

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:32 PM.


Copyright © 2000-2016 Internet Brands, Inc. All Rights Reserved