Replacing brake pads on my LS430 was... CAKE!
#16
CL Folding Team Starter
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From what I understand Lexus rotors are not turned. They are so thick that when the eventually do go that is it you have to junk them and buy new ones but you can get 150k out of a set. Elite out of Warwick RI does nothing but Lexus sevice and the owner, Jimmy explained that to me. He worked at Inskip Lexus for 15 years before opening his own place.
I've heard that on most German cars you can't do that though (BMW Mercedes) and I'm quite sure you can't do it on the newer Lexus cars.
I'm about up for a pad AND rotor change. Is swapping out rotors that difficult or should I just leave it for the dealer? And oil change is coming up in a few weeks
I need to get a lift.
#17
Lexus Test Driver
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The rotors are just as easy on the LS430. I don't know about the LS4. Remove the brake pads as you would replace them. Remove the calipers, 2 large bolts. I believe they are 17mm or somewhere close to that. Set the caliper somewhere where it is not dangling by the brake line. The rotors will just fall off from there. If not, you will need hammer to know it out.
#21
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The only issue I've run into regarding replacing the brake pads myself is a strange squeaking/slight grinding. This MAY be due to the fact that I didn't have the rotors machined (the car was @ ~48K miles). Other than that, everything works great, and I saved a ton of cash.
No question I'll have my rotors resurfaced the next time I do the pads...
No question I'll have my rotors resurfaced the next time I do the pads...
#22
#23
The only issue I've run into regarding replacing the brake pads myself is a strange squeaking/slight grinding. This MAY be due to the fact that I didn't have the rotors machined (the car was @ ~48K miles). Other than that, everything works great, and I saved a ton of cash.
No question I'll have my rotors resurfaced the next time I do the pads...
No question I'll have my rotors resurfaced the next time I do the pads...
#24
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Although it "feels" like the issue is more with the rotor than anything else.
You said "back of the pads" - don't you mean on the side of the pad that contacts the rotor?
I also feel a slight "grind" feel from time to time - I find that a bit odd, but don't get me wrong, I did install the brake pads perfectly fine. I'm guessing I just needed to have the rotors machined first even though they felt OK...
#27
Nah - I don't even know what that is.
Although it "feels" like the issue is more with the rotor than anything else.
You said "back of the pads" - don't you mean on the side of the pad that contacts the rotor?
I also feel a slight "grind" feel from time to time - I find that a bit odd, but don't get me wrong, I did install the brake pads perfectly fine. I'm guessing I just needed to have the rotors machined first even though they felt OK...
Although it "feels" like the issue is more with the rotor than anything else.
You said "back of the pads" - don't you mean on the side of the pad that contacts the rotor?
I also feel a slight "grind" feel from time to time - I find that a bit odd, but don't get me wrong, I did install the brake pads perfectly fine. I'm guessing I just needed to have the rotors machined first even though they felt OK...
#28
From someone who has done countless brake pad, and back in the day - brake shoe, changes on lots of different cars I would recommend never buying anything other than OEM pads. Aftermarket pads generally will squeek or squeel (anti-squeel on the backs of the pads helps but doesn't fix the problem).
Brake pad replacement even on a Lexus is as EZ as Moogy says. Replace the bolt, use OEM pads only and change the pads before you damage your rotors. If you do this there is no need whatsoever to replace or 'resurface' the rotors. If you've already overheated your brakes from hard driving or very steep mountain roads just replace the rotors as well.
One other thing - if you plan on selling the car within a couple of years you should probably take it to the 'stealer' to have the work done not because they will do a better job but because having the dealer do all your maintainence will make it easier to sell. Would you buy a LS430 that some clown "maintained" himself?! You and I know that the work you do is as good or better than the dealer but most people don't know that. If you plan on keeping it for a very long time then you should do all your work yourself and save a fortune.
Brake pad replacement even on a Lexus is as EZ as Moogy says. Replace the bolt, use OEM pads only and change the pads before you damage your rotors. If you do this there is no need whatsoever to replace or 'resurface' the rotors. If you've already overheated your brakes from hard driving or very steep mountain roads just replace the rotors as well.
One other thing - if you plan on selling the car within a couple of years you should probably take it to the 'stealer' to have the work done not because they will do a better job but because having the dealer do all your maintainence will make it easier to sell. Would you buy a LS430 that some clown "maintained" himself?! You and I know that the work you do is as good or better than the dealer but most people don't know that. If you plan on keeping it for a very long time then you should do all your work yourself and save a fortune.
#29
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regarding the brake sensors.... if the sensor has been cut, and the "Brake Wear" message appears in the display... Does anyone have details on how to re-solder the sensor, so that the message disappears?? I know you can buy new sensors, but each one costs about $75 it seems. Anyone deal with this yet?
#30
The anti-squeal grease goes on the pad backing.
I usually take a soft bristle brush with some brake cleaner and go at the pistons in the caliper, then put a little dab of silicone grease around the perimeter of the pistons and on the guide pins to keep everything moving smoothly. Cleaning the pistons is important if you live anywhere where they salt the roads heavily. That crap will eventually pit the rotors and cause them to eff up the piston seals*. You SoCal boys can get away with a few little blasts of brake cleaner to knock off some excess brake dust.
*My other car (Volvo V70R), last winter my front left caliper decided to freeze up and stick in ~%50% braking power mode. While my wife had the car. And she drove it 10 miles all the way home. She came in complaining about reduced power in the car. I step out into the garage and smell the familiar smell of burnt brakes. Heat was still radiating off of the entire wheel assembly. Warped my new Powerslot rotor.