LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

P/S air control valve - R&R tips? (1st gen)

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Old 08-24-16, 05:07 PM
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dicer
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I asked along time ago and I forget who said they would consider it. It does no good to post things and build up more stuff to have to attempt to find. And if too many stickys are needed just sticky the stickys. Like have one for maintenance and then sub headings and get the ECU in there. Start at the front of the car and go back.
All these as sub stickys, Sticky one HEAD LIGHTS and all other lighting, Sticky 2 Engine, 3 Transmission, 4 Drive line and rear end 5 Body 6 Interior 7 All Electrical 8 Wheels and tires.

Old 08-24-16, 05:58 PM
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Banshee365
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I'll take a look if the ACV is removable from the top when I get a chance. I unscrewed it when it was broke loose from the top but loosened and tightened from the bottom. I would say there is a good chance a crow foot can do it from the top. I'll check it out and post a pic of possible.
Old 08-24-16, 09:10 PM
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I have notes some place about it all. I like to post things here so its as easy for me to reference as it is for others.
Anyway after you remove the valve you use an air compressor and blow through one of the ports not sure which one notes aren't handy, and becareful it will blow the little valve out don't lose it, hold it in a rag to catch it. I explained what size and how they fit (O rings) to replace the worn out ones. Its a cheap easy fix, I didn't it to mine and it works just great. I've done them from below the car with a normal combo wrench open end of course.
Old 08-25-16, 07:24 PM
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Banshee365
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Originally Posted by RA40
Can the valve be removed topside or does one have to get under the car? Nice that a crow foot will get in there. If it can be removed topside this potentially makes the swap much easier-faster.
I messed around with this some today in the middle of a few others projects on one of my LS400's. While it may be possible I don't think it's really worth it to attempt getting a wrench on the ACV from the top. For the amount of time that you would spent to attempt it you could have had the car on ramps, slash shield removed, and valve loosened from the bottom much faster. It may be possible with the 17mm crow foot on a 3" extension with a long handle non-detented flex 3/8" ratchet. Removing the air cleaner assembly and MAF tubing would also give you some extra room to get both miss in there. I didn't want to remove the vacuum hoses again just for testing but it may have been easier with them removed. With the location and orientation of the ACV on the power steering pump the crow foot really has the be inserted around the bottom of the valve. The high pressure hose hard line is near there and can easily interfere.

Someone who is changing this valve is surely capable of an oil change. So, if you need to replace the ACV or remove it for a delete do it from the bottom and save yourself the experimentation. Buying the 17mm crow foot will save you time and frustration and it's a good excuse to buy new tool, and there is never anything wrong with that.
Old 08-26-16, 06:06 AM
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Thanks, saves me the experimentation time. The valve in ours is just beginning to show fluid migration so I know it is an upcoming task.
Old 08-26-16, 12:12 PM
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I am going under there this weekend and will do an oil change and A/T fluid drain-refill. It's a good thing to plan for a few things at a time. One thing I noticed though: the vacuum lines I had on there were eaten by the P/S fluid so those will have to be replaced too. I am planning on using generic vacuum lines from O'Reilly's - whatever fits (1/4 in I think it was). That will be one of those rare parts that is not OEM. Should be fine?
Old 08-26-16, 12:28 PM
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I'd replaced those PS vacuum lines about 2-3 years ago using the factory parts. The bulk should be fine after it conforms from the heat cycling.The OEM comes with a foam insulator, I can't recall what it comes close to for the heat insulation.
Old 08-29-16, 01:27 PM
  #23  
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Done. Using right tools was essential - what Banshee posted earlier. I actually found crow foot open ended metric wrench set at Harbor freight for peanuts, and it worked fine. They are a bit thick, but it got in there. Even with right tools, the valve was stuck on there like with a super glue. Everything on my car was tightened by someone who just could not care about proper torque... I think I used about 200lbs of pressure to unscrew that thing, but it gave in in the end.
Didn't replace the vacuum hoses yet - re-using the old ones, but will get to that too eventually.
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