P/S air control valve - R&R tips? (1st gen)
#16
I asked along time ago and I forget who said they would consider it. It does no good to post things and build up more stuff to have to attempt to find. And if too many stickys are needed just sticky the stickys. Like have one for maintenance and then sub headings and get the ECU in there. Start at the front of the car and go back.
All these as sub stickys, Sticky one HEAD LIGHTS and all other lighting, Sticky 2 Engine, 3 Transmission, 4 Drive line and rear end 5 Body 6 Interior 7 All Electrical 8 Wheels and tires.
All these as sub stickys, Sticky one HEAD LIGHTS and all other lighting, Sticky 2 Engine, 3 Transmission, 4 Drive line and rear end 5 Body 6 Interior 7 All Electrical 8 Wheels and tires.
#17
I'll take a look if the ACV is removable from the top when I get a chance. I unscrewed it when it was broke loose from the top but loosened and tightened from the bottom. I would say there is a good chance a crow foot can do it from the top. I'll check it out and post a pic of possible.
#18
I have notes some place about it all. I like to post things here so its as easy for me to reference as it is for others.
Anyway after you remove the valve you use an air compressor and blow through one of the ports not sure which one notes aren't handy, and becareful it will blow the little valve out don't lose it, hold it in a rag to catch it. I explained what size and how they fit (O rings) to replace the worn out ones. Its a cheap easy fix, I didn't it to mine and it works just great. I've done them from below the car with a normal combo wrench open end of course.
Anyway after you remove the valve you use an air compressor and blow through one of the ports not sure which one notes aren't handy, and becareful it will blow the little valve out don't lose it, hold it in a rag to catch it. I explained what size and how they fit (O rings) to replace the worn out ones. Its a cheap easy fix, I didn't it to mine and it works just great. I've done them from below the car with a normal combo wrench open end of course.
#19
Someone who is changing this valve is surely capable of an oil change. So, if you need to replace the ACV or remove it for a delete do it from the bottom and save yourself the experimentation. Buying the 17mm crow foot will save you time and frustration and it's a good excuse to buy new tool, and there is never anything wrong with that.
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
I am going under there this weekend and will do an oil change and A/T fluid drain-refill. It's a good thing to plan for a few things at a time. One thing I noticed though: the vacuum lines I had on there were eaten by the P/S fluid so those will have to be replaced too. I am planning on using generic vacuum lines from O'Reilly's - whatever fits (1/4 in I think it was). That will be one of those rare parts that is not OEM. Should be fine?
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
Done. Using right tools was essential - what Banshee posted earlier. I actually found crow foot open ended metric wrench set at Harbor freight for peanuts, and it worked fine. They are a bit thick, but it got in there. Even with right tools, the valve was stuck on there like with a super glue. Everything on my car was tightened by someone who just could not care about proper torque... I think I used about 200lbs of pressure to unscrew that thing, but it gave in in the end.
Didn't replace the vacuum hoses yet - re-using the old ones, but will get to that too eventually.
Didn't replace the vacuum hoses yet - re-using the old ones, but will get to that too eventually.
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GSquicksilver
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06-21-05 09:47 AM